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Ticking Time Bomb

 
  #41  
Old 03-07-2019, 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Cherry_560sel View Post
I would get in line all day for an aluminium one.
Ditto.
 
  #42  
Old 03-08-2019, 06:54 AM
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Originally Posted by pdupler View Post
Understand wanting to study how they fail. Just don't get your final dimensions off a broken part. Those bonds are part of what helps hold its shape. It may only be a few thousandths of an inch difference, but thousandths of an inch could cause a leak.
Final dimensions will have nothing to do with the part. The old part will still fit at the mounting points so its width will be the same as it was originally created, otherwise no one will use a material that shrinks or stretches in size over time.
The original part will only be a template - the critical sections of the part is the mounting points to the engine the distance in between them, any offset of the mounting points to the engine (if any), mounting point for the sensor, the internal dimensions to make sure you don't introduce the need of more fluid and that's about it. Everything else can be re-done and re-shaped as wished.
Also, you will need to take the thing apart anyway - you need to see if there are any kind of special channels inside of it that could affect the flow of the liquid in any way.

An old, used part will work just fine.

Originally Posted by Cherry_560sel View Post
I think you should go off a new part for your mold. I have experienced two split pipes and the splits occurred in different places. I don't believe you will get any useful insights from a busted unit. The pipe just splits wherever the weakest point in the seam is. IF you do decide to make these, I would get in line all day for an aluminium one.
You wouldn't create a mold of a new part... you literally measure the critical sections and then re-build in CAD (or any other 3D software) and model the bits in between as you wish and then that can be used to be machined (this will be separate parts for the mounting points and then welded together with some pipe ) or 3D printed... For the 3D print part, the trick is to find the right material to print it from - preferably an industrial 3D printer that can laser print in metal.
 

Last edited by mrNewt; 03-08-2019 at 06:58 AM.
  #43  
Old 03-08-2019, 11:52 AM
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Honestly, the part is like $40. I don't think anyone here is going to have a busted one. I know I threw mine away. No reason to keep it really. Hopefully, you find what you need.
 
  #44  
Old 03-08-2019, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Cherry_560sel View Post
Honestly, the part is like $40. I don't think anyone here is going to have a busted one. I know I threw mine away. No reason to keep it really. Hopefully, you find what you need.
I'm not the one who asked for it... I was only explaining the process and why a new part is not necessarily needed.
 
  #45  
Old 03-08-2019, 01:43 PM
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I just hope it gets done. It would be a great thing for all Jag owners who have these pipes. Ever since the first one busted I have been paranoid about it. Not that the part is expensive, but it really causes alot of stress in the back of your mind. I hope the guy gets one and does the build-out for it.
 
  #46  
Old 03-10-2019, 08:02 PM
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I sure have replaced a bunch of old plastic car parts that were not quite the same shape as the new one. Often the only thing keeping an old plastic part's shape is the other parts they are bolted to. But I was imagining trying to replicate a nearly identical part, just cast in a superior material. If the only critical measurements needed are the flanges that attach it to the motor, then those portions may be robust enough hold their form.

If I were trying to do this project as a one-off, I wouldn't use a lot of measurements anyway, rather, I'd probably proceed like I did with a couple of turbo conversions of other cars. I had the motors out of course which made it easy to do iterative test fitting. What I did for oil and coolant supply to/from the turbos was to cut off the flanges from other factory tubes, discard the factory hard piping and weld bungs on the flanges to attach other type fittings. Then I connected everything up between the engine and turbo with braided hose. Unfortunately here the Jaguar's nylon flanges can't be cut off and welded in the same fashion, but instead, I'd probably be able to mill out suitable flanges on my Smithy. Then perhaps like I built my intercooler piping, I could order some mandrel-bent tubing sections in various angles, maybe a flexi-pipe section in the middle, cut and tack weld them together to form the hard pipe section. I'd attach the flanges to the motor, tack weld the pipe section to the flanges to ensure fit, then unbolt the whole affair and have it all professionally welded to ensure it was watertight. The downside is all this could not be economically reproduced for resale. Hopefully our volunteer will have a more reproducible solution.
 
  #47  
Old 03-15-2019, 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Paul Fisher View Post
If anyone has kept their failed crossover pipe(s) after replacing them , I would like to get my hands on one or two for reverse engineering them for manufacture in metal. It might also be possible to print them in a material similar to the original but with no seams, as expansion and shrinkage must be taken into account.Just trying to get the project moving , I've been a model maker for over 40 years and this sort of thing is what I live for.

The engineer I work with is up for the idea, and has access to both 3D printing equipment as well as high pressure casting in bronze or aluminum, one way or the other I'm confident we can create a replacement part that will be a better long term solution.

Paul
I'd gladly chip in a few bucks to get you whatever parts you need in the name of creating a new, improved version. Anyone else on board?
 
  #48  
Old 03-15-2019, 11:54 AM
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All good constructive discussion....The real problem is finding a part for the V6 SC....I have tried for days and none of the parts suppliers seem to have this little goody, nor do they give a part number for it when warning me that the similar part for the V8 as well as the NA V6 won't fit.Very frustrating , especially now that Brexit looks to be a full crash out, which may disrupt parts supply.

Perhaps Brutal can find me the correct part number for the V6 SC...I have found parts for the V8 at several vendors, don't mind buying one or two for inspection and dimensioning, can't make an omelette, etc;....
Just need to find the silly part for my own 2015 XF Sport V6 SC and I can begin.
 
  #49  
Old 03-15-2019, 01:10 PM
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Paul Fisher the part number you're looking for is C2Z18624.

The V8 rear crossover pipe is C2Z31645.

For future reference, there's an online copy of the Jaguar EPC here (requires registration). Sometimes the part numbers are slightly out of date but googling will get you any superseding part numbers etc.
 

Last edited by davetibbs; 03-15-2019 at 01:13 PM.
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  #50  
Old 03-15-2019, 01:41 PM
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That link to the parts site is going to be super useful. Thanks.
 
  #51  
Old 03-15-2019, 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by TXFireblade View Post
That link to the parts site is going to be super useful. Thanks.
I've tried to keep it on the DL as I'm worried if loads of people start using it they'll take it offline or start charging
 
  #52  
Old 03-15-2019, 03:26 PM
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Thanks so much, Dave...Parts ordered and I can't wait to get started on this, it will be great to have a project to sink my teeth into, first real job since the fire.All I've been doing is lists of contents for insurance companies...Not fun.This, however will be a challenge. One way or t'other I am going to figure out how to make us a bullet proof crossover pipe.
 
  #53  
Old 03-15-2019, 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by davetibbs View Post
I've tried to keep it on the DL as I'm worried if loads of people start using it they'll take it offline or start charging
LOL! The parts list on PARTS.COM is 1000 times better than that site because it has diagrams as well. And you don't have to worry about them taking it offline.

So funny!
 

Last edited by lotusespritse; 03-15-2019 at 04:41 PM.
  #54  
Old 03-15-2019, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by lotusespritse View Post
LOL! The parts list on PARTS.COM is 1000 times better than that site because it has diagrams as well. And you don't have to worry about them taking it offline.

So funny!
This statement is completely incorrect. Not only does the site I linked above have diagrams - they're often more complete and more accurate than the diagrams on parts.com. If you want a part number from parts.com that isn't on one of their diagrams then it's a nightmare. Additionally, the EPC site has part numbers separated by VIN which parts.com doesn't.

Did you even spend any time checking the site before running your mouth as usual?

It makes no odds to me what site you use, but I'm going to call out BS when I see it.

For example, here's the part Paul Fisher was trying (and failing) to find:


What's that at the bottom if not a diagram?
 

Last edited by davetibbs; 03-15-2019 at 05:01 PM.
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  #55  
Old 03-15-2019, 07:30 PM
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Paul Fisher - strongly suggest to start your own thread if you start doing this - will be much easier to follow and a more appropriate thread name.
 
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  #56  
Old 03-18-2019, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by davetibbs View Post
Oh NO! Not.... (dun dun dun) a WOMAN?!!?! Driving a car? Whatever next?

News just in, the 1950s want their gender stereotypes back
Thank you.
 
 
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