Drivers door won't go down. The sun roof will open but will close in a few seconds by itself.

bought a new battery and problem went away both work great. After about two weeks shorts again and problem comes back. ground the postive cable reinstall on battery ok again. Olny effects drivers window and sunroof.

Is there a relay thats common?

 

Goya, what you will need to do is to remove the window switches from the door panel. On the back, locate a brown/orange striped wire and a black wire. Put the red lead of a multimeter on the brown/orange wire and the black lead on the black wire. With the multimeter connected and the ignition switch in the RUN position (motor can be running or not, doesn't matter), verify the multimeter is reading 0 VDC. Next, depress the UP button for the driver's window. The multimeter should jump up to 12 VDC (atleast 11.0 VDC). If the multimeter does not jump up to 12 VDC, then the push button is bad, replace.

if you are getting 12 VDC at the brown/orange wire, move the multimeter to the window motor wires (orange/white and blue/white wires on the door control module). Connect up the multimeter (lead placement doesn't matter for what lead goes to what wire). Now, attempt to lower the window. The multimeter should jump to 12 VDC (+ or -, doesn't matter). Next, attempt to raise the window, the multimeter should jump to the opposite value recieved while attempting to lower the window (ie, if lowering the window gave you +12 VDC, raising should give you -12 VDC, and vice versa). If you get +/-12 VDC for both up and down on the window, then you have a bad motor. If you don't, then you have a bad window control module.

As for the sunroof, access the sliding control roof (sunroof) module (located behind the overhead console, on the driver's side). First, connect the red lead of the multimeter to the orange/gray wire on the control module and the black lead on the black wire. Should have 0 VDC. Next, depress the OPEN button and the multimeter should jump up to 12 VDC (greater than 11.0 VDC, make sure the ignition switch is in the RUN position). If no 12 VDC, bad pushbutton. If you get 12 VDC, connect up the multimeter on the orange wire and the blue wire on the control module (red and black lead placement doesn't matter). Attempt to open the sunroof, multimeter should jump from 0 VDC to 12 VDC (+ or -, doesn't matter). Next attempt to close the sunroof. The multimeter should jump to the opposite of what you saw before. If you don't get both of these voltages, bad control module. If you do get both of these voltages, you have a bad motor.

if you need more help, just hollar.

 

Now that I reset the battery everything works ok. It will act up in a week or so. One part is shorting out. How would I check for that.

 

Is there a relay that controls both?

 

Goya, there is no part that affects just those two components without affecting all the other controls (ie, the sun roof shutting, the other window controls, etc). As for verifying the component bad, that is what I have essentially done for you. I have proven a good input with a bad output. If you are asking about putting a multimeter on two pins to measure through the control module, that can not be done without some fancy equipment. You are measuring multiple current paths inside of the control module at the same time. What I gave you is about as good as you can get.

 

Thermo, obviously you don't need me to tell you that you are reading the wiring diagram correctly, and normally I would agree with the first effort to identify two separate faults.
But if they are only happening concurrently, and are both straightened out after a reset on more than one occasion, I'd be looking for the common denominator which in this case is the battery voltage.

Goya, Thermo is quite correct in that there is no relay for either circuit or common path for both, at least not that I can see from the diagram. I would start with the basics, and have the new battery load tested to make certain it is in good condition. I would test the charging system output similarly, and then I would test for abnomal current drains to make sure that there are no faults causing a low voltage condition.

The only other suggestion I have would be to have the car checked for stored trouble codes at a Dealership, as their might be stored SCP circuit codes that you cannot read reliably with any other type of scanner. The door modules and body processor module are both in the SCP circuit, so I'm fishing for another common denominator but I don't have a clue if that will get you any closer to an answer.

 

I purchased a new battery. When we tested the load on the old battery they said it was ok but I thought for 80 bucks I would just get a new one anyway. The Alt is 13.5 volts and is working ok. So I think I am ok with power. What is puzzling is that when I disconnect the pos on the battery and ground hook back up works again for a period of time both acting the same way. I think I have a short but ????? Thats why I was thinking of a common part that serves both.

 

You bought a good quality battery of the sufficient amp hour rating for $80.00? Or you received one that is about half the size and has significantly less reserve capacity than the factory battery? The last Interstate I bought was about $140.00 a my cost. One of us is installing the wrong batteries.

 

jagtech, I agree that having a common problem is the most likely cause of this. But, looking, if the battery voltage was the problem, then shouldn't it be affecting the passenger side window and/or the other direction of the windows in question. From my experience of dealing with electronics, this is a classic sign of an electronic controller starting to fade and will adventually fail. Hence why atleast knowing where the power is being stopped can help come to a logical solution as to what is going on.

 

Thermo,

I'm not faulting your logic any more than I am engaging in guesswork. I don't take as a "given" any information I get on here from laypersons, as doing so leads to false assumptions. I believe Goya's description of the problem, and I believe him when he says he paid $80.00 for a battery. That's all I know so far, and give advice to verify the basics first.

 

I like JagTechOhios general idea. Jaguars are known to have all sorts of electrical gremlins caused by low voltage from the battery. The battery may start the car fine and the charging system may be working as designed but the problem occurs during cranking. When you crank the car with a battery installed that may be either below the recommended cranking amps or a little weak the voltage can drop below the threshold for proper module operation. The fact that a hard reset seems to fix the problem for a period of time also leans toward that diagnosis. i've seen many very strange symptoms caused by low voltage during cranking. For instance the most common would be the loss of window drop memory in an XK. The voltage required to keep the drop programmed is over 10.6 volts and it's easy for a battery to drop below that during cranking. I've seen XJs that when you push the drivers seat heater button the passenger heater button lights up. you would swear it was a bad switch but a hard reset fixes it and a battery replacement prevents it from happening again. i think JTOs idea is just to keep someone from chasing wild geese when the fix could be as simple as a new battery.

 

The battery is holding 850 cranking amps and 13.5 Volts. i had it tested at O'reilys at two locations and it tests ok..

I really appreciate the help.. I rebuild old Mopars this is really driving me nuts with this electrical issue.

 

O reilys had the correct battery. It was exactly the same size. I have no issue trying a new battery again.

 

Goya,

I just had this exact pair of problems on a 2000 VDP today. The driver's door switch would not lower the window at all, although I could hear the relay inside the door control module clicking. The sunroof on this car would also close by itself, whether it was slid all the way open or tilted.

The drivers door control module was faulty, and replacing it corrected both problems. Send me a PM if you want a good used one, I still have at least one left in stock.

 

I'm having the same problem with my 2000 xjr. I tried the "hard reset" and it worked...for awhile. So you say it is the switch. How much do they cost?

 

Thank all of you for your comments. I have already purchased a motor. If not needed, I will let all know it is available for a great price. Franklyjag.

 

I have a 99 xj8. It has the same problem.

Do hard reset it works fine for a while then trips again.

Went on a trip with wife. It tripped 6 times in 3 days.

It it possible that it is linked to the door lock?

If we do not lock the doors it doesn't seem to trip.

We locked the doors several times per day on the trip.

I told wife just don't lock it and it will be fine.
She didn't like that idea.

Door module the problem?

Hate to swap parts if not needed.

 

OK, all the help here was good but it did not get to the answer or identify the problem. Yes the driver door has a module that controls the sunroof and driver window. It actually controls more than that but these are the most commonly effected areas. If module is going bad you get issues. Dont use your key in the door, use your remote lock only, or unconnect your car battery to reset the module after you use the key in door and driver window and sunroof should work fine. The problem is in the drivers door, and using the key in the door activates the module which then causes problems if the module is failing. This module can continue to work fine, other than the key in door issue, for years. The module is kinda pricy so I never replaced it. I just dont put key in drivers door and I am fine. If some how the key does get put into the door I just unplug car battery which resets the module and everything is back to normal.

 

Hi - I have a 1999 xj8 and just recently the drivers door window does not work but i can hear it "click". And the sunroof closes on its own. I will try a hard reset by disconnecting the positive terminal on the battery. Then I will look into buying a new battery. Next, I would be replacing the window control module. Oh yeah, I bypassed the "push button" to confirm it was not the motor and the window worked fine so I thought it was the switch. Thanks for this thread - I hope something works!

 

Hello everyone,I am a newcomer to website but have been reading posts
on problems with drivers door module as I am having problems with my sovereign,only started 2 days ago. what is not working are buttons for passenger side windows,the rear one will wind down but not up and front wont work at all, both work fine with buttons on respective doors and locking on dashboard control panel, would appreciate any help .
thanks brianc.