hey thanks for checking out my post well i did the abs module repair myself cause i keep having the abs / trac /asc not available light always on .So then I opened my abs module saw the two pin connectors cracked with the bad connection as I was suppose to see ,but i still have the light on. I tried disconnecting the battery and auto zone couldn't find any codes just the P1000 which is nothing any advice ??? oh oh yeah i been driving around a lot hoping it would just disappear but not yet.

 

My experience with the XK8 is that the light should go out if you did a good repair. Maybe you also have a wheel sensor circuit problem.
The generic readers can not read chassis codes, so they can't help. P1000 means the internal tests are not complete, caused by disconnecting the battery. It will change to P1111.

 

Did you just disconnect the battery or did you do a hard reset? Just a thought...

Go to a Jaguar dealership and have them read the codes for you, might be some of the best money ever spent.

 

how do you do a hard reset?

 

Just disconnect the negative cable and touch it to the positive post. Insures that capacitors in the modules are bled off.

 

Also make sure nothing is connected to the negative terminal -- you can also disconnect both the pos and neg and touch them together for a minute or so if you're uncomfortable touching the neg to the pos with the pos connected to the battery.

After a hard reset you will have to let the car re-learn a few things -- you will notice the idle being high or erratic, for example. There's a procedure for doing this, it escapes me for now.

 

okay i did the hard rest procedure and i even reopened the abs module again to take a second look this time looking very careful to observe the tiniest crack or poor connections any where . does anybody know if my model car does have wheel sensors so i can try and clean them

 

Yes, this was taken from the X308 Workshop Manual

Anti-Lock Braking System (ABS)

The ABS components are combined with an hydraulic booster and a tandem master cylinder to provide a two circuit braking system. The system comprises, four wheel speed sensors, a brake control modulator and an ABS warning lamp.

Should a wheel start to lock-up during braking a signal transmitted from the wheel speed sensor to the brake control modulator will start the hydraulic pump. The brake control modulator will close the input valve of the line connected to the locked-wheel to stop any increase in fluid pressure to the brake caliper. If this fails to prevent the wheel locking, the pressure in the caliper will be decreased by opening the return valve until the wheel starts accelerating again. The fluid pressure from the return valve is directed into the low pressure accumulator, housed in the pump.

From the low pressure accumulator, fluid is pumped through the damping chamber to the brake master cylinder. The pressure to the brake caliper will then be increased in small steps to maintain maximum adhesion between the tire and road surface. This is achieved by closing the return valve, and opening the input valve and using the hydraulic pump to increase the pressure.

Although the system senses all four wheels independently, the rear wheels are regulated as a pair. If a sensor on a rear wheel detects a wheel decelerating rapidly, then the fluid pressure to both wheels is reduced. The fluid pressure is then dictated by the wheel having the lowest adhesion with the road surface.

The ABS system will be set in a fail-safe mode if a problem is detected; a warning lamp on the instrument panel will notify the driver there is a problem. The brake system will still operate conventionally and with the same standard of performance as a vehicle not equipped with ABS.

 

Yes, they are held in by one bolt with a wire attached. Just remove then, clean off the dirt and the connection surface and it should fix the problem granted that one is not bad.

 

Or, drive over and see motorcarman or other independent Jag mechanic and get the code read! The cost will be minimal and will point to the actual problem.

 

I used to recommend getting the modules interrogated for DTCs but then these threads end abruptly.
If people keep offering suggestions and people keep replacing parts we get to read the trials and tribulations for days while the saga continues.

No harm in soldering the power pins in the module as they will probably fail sometime anyway but most is hit or miss.

bob gauff

 

Hi,
I had exactly the same problem, same messages etc. on and off for about 12 months, it got so bad that it eventually went into "Fail safe engine mode", I managed to get the car home and decided to have another look under the hood. I have attached a picture of the two fuse boxes at the front of the car, you will notice a short 6" or so cable connects the two, this supplies 12v to the fuses and relays. On mine there was a poor connection to the bigger of the fuse boxes, 1st. of all disconnect the battery, (make sure you have the radio code first :-)) I now made sure both ends of the cable were clean and bright and refitted it, I have since done over 500 miles without any warnings. I am positive this cable was the culprit, it will only take you a few minutes to check it. Hope this helps.

 

I don't think this is the same issue so let me explain what is happening. ABS light and message comes on intermitantly after about 4-5 engine starts then goes off for a few starts then on again. The ABS pulsatating action happens all the time at slow speeds, 10-20mph mostly when slowing into a turn. I've had to come to a sudden stop avoiding an accident and the ABS kicked on as it was supposed to and worked just fine. Don't know why the ABS action happens going into slow turns. Very frustrating. Any suggestions?

 

There are multiple joints in the positive side of the power distribution circuits. Checking and cleaning them all can save lots of future grief. The hardest one is the alternator output to starter junctions and starter to false bulkhead. But, they are very important ones.

Be aware that on all of the fuse boxes the main power stud is only held by, at most a 1/8" thick plastic hex shaped depression for the bolt head. It is very fragile, so over tightening can be costly. The internal circuits are also not the expected copper busses, but only a circuit board that carries all of the amperage. They have been cost engineered to the point of failure. Good and tight does not work out well on these components.

 

Hi
Today i fix my ABS module, before to do the work i check all the ABS sensor.
The problem was those two pins inside the module.
Problem solved.

 

Another success. Thanks for telling us gabriel. Others will be encouraged to do the repair themselves.

 

I bought this car a few days ago and till now i have something to fix because the previews owner do not have mechanical and electrical skills. ABS not working, the ABS sensor on the right front wheel has poor connection (clean the contacts and all are OK now) Now i have something else to do I must change the front tires because they don`t have the same size as rear tires
The right dimension for this car is 255/40/18 (661.2 mm diameter) now i have on the rear axle 245/45/18 (677.7 mm diameter) witch is to big and on the front axle i have 245/40/18 (653 mm diameter) and this is to small and the ABS sensor read different speed between the axes . Tomorrow i will buy another two tires 245/45/18 to have the same size. Next year after the winter goes i will buy the right size for the summer. Now i must prepare for the winter and i will search for a 16" wheel and 225/55/16 tires
Because the reading differences is tow big the ABS not working properly, the amber light come on after a few meters after start moving the car.
I will post here all the improvement i will made to this car regarding the ABS system.
Hope to have luck ant the tires changing solve my problem.
I want to thank you for all the information containing on this forum
Hope to read my regards all the guys who give us detailed information.
All the best

 

Do you have a picture of the two pins? I would love to check mine as well.
Thanks, nicdilla

 

Here is a picture of a XK8, but the same thing.

JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

 

Hi friends.
Similar issues with my '99 XJ8.
Eventually had to spring for a rebuild ($500 approx.).
This module runs ASC, Traction,and ABS functions.
While it is a rather costly fix, it's is relatively easy to
pull out and reinstall.
Guess I could have saved a few bucks there.
Many independent shops can rebuild this piece.
Regards,