^^

It's absolutely critical. Or at least a really, really good idea.

Since the engine is out, a sheet of plate glass bonded to very fine abrasive sheets works well. Spin the engine to get the block deck horizontal and have at it. Use WD-40 as lube.

Suction cup handles on the glass could be useful.

... umm peanut butter is not really great as assembly lube

 

But peanut butter containers are great for holding hardware.
Reduce, reuse, recycle!

 

I was taught at trade school that a coarse machined surface was best - it gives a gripping surface for the gasket
Cheers - DC

 

NO, old way of doing head gasket sufaces, when gasket gets hot,rough surface tears gasket and bolts(studs) lose clamping force.

less clamp, and gasket starts to pulse back and forth, and its down hill from there.

proven best way is as FLAT and smooth as possible, and an MLS gasket.

without resorting to fire rings in block or head, or hollow gas filled rings in block(big money).

 

Today I continue the valve seal replacement, along with cleaning up any valve seats that need it. 32 valves are nice, but a lot of work. Here are some shots of the tooling I used.
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A magnety works well for removing the keepers.
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A small screwdriver with some grease on it holds the keepers for the install.
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The seals are easily pulled out with pliers, and a socket helps the installation.
[IMG][/IMG]

 

Strange thing - that's exactly opposite of what I have practiced all my life, we work with a coarse mill finish, apparently it stops fire ring chatter. - Each To Their Own. I am just about to do a XJR 4 litre engine, do you know where can I purchase multi layer gaskets, I have never seen them for Jaguar.
Cheers,
DC

 

I tried to find alternate gaskets for my 4.0 and gave up. I am using stock gaskets.

 

If it is an AJ27, then the factory 4.2L gasket will fit. It may also fit the AJ26, but has not been confirmed. The other alternative is to check with Cometic.

On MLS, then for sure you will need to go mirror finish on the mating surfaces. If in doubt, check with some of the vendors.

 

Today I finished the heads and installed them. For this I used an AC Delco digital torque wrench, then an angle reader on my breaker bar. It works like a dream, and I'm very happy about how it went. Checking off each bolt at each stage on paper is a really good plan.
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The cams went on the RH bank, then I got tired, so it's beer time.


[IMG][/IMG]

 

Looking good! Keep the pics coming.

 

Today the timing chains went on. It was pretty easy with the engine out. The tools I bought were great, here's a pic of one or two.
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What's the deal with the little pins on the primary tensioners? I pulled the plastic pins, now what about the metal ones that are left? Do they stay in place?
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If you have the pins jammed get them out. If they stay in then they will not take up the wear slack. The primes are activated by oil pressure and will pump up against the pin, not against the internal stop.

When working on replacements, always push the chain so it backs the tensioner off, then remove the pins. The tensioner will then settle into the natural position.

 

Thanks Sean. The tensioners came with plastic pins in the primary tensioners, but there are still those funny little metal pins. I am reluctant to pull them out until I know what the situation is.

 

I should have looked more closely at these before I installed them. I took one off today to check it out. The plastic pin, which looks like a small golf tee, locks the metal arm from rotating. This arm is attached to a spring loaded metal catch, which allows the piston extend with chain wear, but won't allow it to retract.

Long story short, pull the plastic pin, and leave the metal one alone.
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Progress report- the itming chains and cams went in. And out. And in, etc. The valve clearance caused me to buy 4 shims, and install the cams 3 times, but alls well thats ends well.
The timing cover is on, and one valve cover done. Another days work ought to see it in a shape to go back in the car.
If you are going to tackle a project like this, I cannot stress enough the importance of organization (labelled baggies for every bolt and screw) and a thousand pictures of the disassembly.
Onwards and upwards!

 

Gogogogogogo! Nothing will beat the feeling of when you turn the key and this motor comes to life!

 

I admit, still get a bit giddy on rebuilt initial startups

Hope it goes butter smooth Rob, just don't be tempted to start dry, and pull the fuel relay to get oil pressure

 

More good progress today, until I had to tighten the crank bolt. Long story short, I bolted a steel bar (actually the lawn thatching bar from my lawn mower) through the curved slots of the pulley. A pair 7/16 bolts fit well, with the nuts in the gap between the pulleys. Then a steel tube and steel pipe lying around the garage were used to brace the bar against rotation.
I bought another yet torque wrench, this one good for 300 lb ft. It all worked beautifully, and didn't cost anything for the locking device.
[IMG][/IMG]

 

Well darn. The engine is in, but does not run for more than a few seconds. It fires, revs to 1000 rpm for less than a second, then dies. No amount of throttle will keep it running. I double checkedall the connectors and vacuum lines, still the same. I put 5 litres of fres gas in, it had only an eight of a tank before.
In the morng I'll try a hard reset, test the fuel pumps (not sure how, though) hook up the OBD and see where it goes, Frustrating.

 

air leak? any codes?