Passenger side-bolted to the engine. The fuel lines are a very heavy duty stainless steel and are difficult to work with as they are hell to bend! Also the pumps have a thick rubber cover over them to muffle the noise they make. I thought this was a pretty cool picture of the 5.0L engine too.



Couple of other things? One pump for each side of the engine. There is ONLY one high pressure fuel sensor and it's mounted on the passenger side fuel rail at the back of the engine. This means we have no way to determine if the drivers side pump is working or what it's putting out pressure wise. Now why it was designed this way I can't say?

I have cracked the fuel line fitting a bit and cranked the engine to test the driver side but that is NOT any kind of approved method and just something I did to verify to myself that I had fuel pressure on both banks of the engine.

I would make sure you have no battery/voltage problems before attacking the gear driven fuel pumps. You might not have any problem with them?
The gear driven pumps can only use the fuel the low pressure in-tank pump can supply. As it is electric driven you can see how battery and/or voltage problems could effect it.
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😳😳

 

Thanks for the context and picture! Just picked up a new primary battery and going to try that. The secondary needs replaced and I have a new AUX12 for that but waiting on the post adapter connectors to show up from eBay this weekend.

 

New battery resulted in no change. Vehicle is not showing any codes at all either…

1 - at start up the engine revs to 3500-4000rpm and held there for around 3-4min and then dropped to normal idle.

2 - after dropping back to idle it has black smoke coming out of the exhaust still.

Still concerned why it’s free revving so high until it’s warmed up and still not getting the proper fuel (too much).

Does anyone know what normal idle rail pressure should be? I still see some fluctuations in both engine rpm (50-75) and rail pressure (200-300kpa).

 

I don’t want to try to drive it again in this condition and have to get towed back home again lol.

Here are a few thoughts at least on the excessive fuel side of things. I think low rail pressure could result in an increase in ECM commanded injector duration if the computer is looking for a specific return value. Not sure if it works this way or not but might be a thing. I haven’t tried to tune one of these ECMs so not sure how it commands injector duration vs pressure on the map.

 

I wonder if you got the car connected to a SDD instead of an after market scanner?
We have seen many of these no codes that is just because of the level of the scanner used. Until I hook a car up to SDD I can't really say it has no codes?

Here is a statement from a 5.0L technical document?




BUT I found this thread which states that at idle the fuel pressure is 30 mpa or 435 psi? Which is in the range your seeing? 4030 mpa=584 psi?

5.0L SC Engine Fuel Pressure
In the end his problem was the gear driven fuel pumps were out of time. He used the Jaguar tool to check this and afterwards things were fixed. Since you have not touched the fuel pumps I can't see this being your problem? Plus your not getting code P0087-00 which is low fuel rail pressure.

Another thread but this one turned out to be replace both high pressure pumps?
Low Fuel Rail Pressure-5.0L SC Engine
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I finally got the adapter terminals in for the secondary battery conversion to AUX12. I took the car for a short drive around the neighborhood and it ran fine but still had black smoke and a little rough of an idle when I finished the drive (maybe 3-4min of driving). Also still revved up to 4K rpm right at startup and then calmed down after a few minutes (makes me cringe each time).

This morning I went outside to move the car and it wouldn’t start, and I FINALLY have logical codes that match what I’m seeing visually with the black smoke. P2178 and P2180 popped up for system too rich off idle both banks. I also have P0480 for fan 1 control circuit but I don’t think that is relevant.

I ordered a new HP sensor for the rail for $50 and will try replacing that first. If it doesn’t work I’m leaning towards the HP pumps being bad or out of time and will be replacing those and pulling the front cover to endure they are timed correctly and also do the chain tensioners while I’m in there.

 

My reasoning for replacing the HP sensor is that I can see triggers for low fuel pressure coming out of the low pressure pump, and also a trigger for too high of rail pressure both in the wiring diagram. But if the sensor is not reading the proper rail pressure to trigger the high rail pressure engine code I want to rule that out as a possibility for over fueling before I do the pumps.

 

Wow! I haven’t updated this thread in quite some time…I was busy building and swapping a new engine in the truck and just got back to the Jaguar in the last couple of weeks. I found one major concern that I believe was leading to some of my issues…it was THREE QUARTS low on oil and no codes or check gauges at all. Thankfully I only drove it five miles or so since I bought it before all this happened, but goes to show not to trust people who say “it was just changed.”

After adding the appropriate amount of oil everything seemed very smooth except for a sporadic vacuum leak that would cause post start up idle to jump and then come back down once the cats started regulating things. I also changed the rail pressure sensor at this time and saw quite a bit of gunk/residue inside. After all this I decided to add some BG44K and clean the rest of the fuel system out and also change the oil after this tank of fuel. Was driving the car around gently for a week or so and then decided one day to give it full throttle to make sure it got nice and hot to burn things out.

Well that didn’t turn out too well for me…when I was a few hundred feet from the house around 2min after doing this, I heard a knocking and a squealing, and also saw coolant in the engine bay when I popped the hood. Upon inspection it looks like the thermostat housing couldn’t handle the pressure and cracked or leaked, and for the knocking sound I think it’s a broken valve spring or lifter issue. Will be inspecting more as I have time this week and will be pulling the engine to completely overhaul if it ends up being louder on the bottom end than the top side, meaning I lost a rod bearing and need to get the crank machined.