Can you get the actual codes?
These are complex cars and the adaptive dynamics parts can throw many different codes. Otherwise you will just need to trust what your mechanic is saying?

You have been asked about the wire connections twice now? Have you opened the hood and done any checking??
Are they connected? Have you removed them, inspected the ends for damage and re-installed the wire to the top of the strut?
.
.
.

 

Oh yes, both wires are connected properly to the struts. The mechanic said he's sure it's the shock, since it's not raising the car enough so it's around 1cm lower than the other side, and everything else is alright suspension wise. I agree It's for sure better to scan for codes

 

The shock does not lift or lower the car, the spring does. The top connection is for activating the adaptive shocks stiffness not height. I did upper mounts and the noise did come back just not as bad as before. There is a bump stop inside the boot too, but that would only move when the assembly is fully compressed. He could have damaged the shock connection and does not want to be liable or purely coincidence. But if things went back how they should I don’t see how it failed overnight unless it was caused by the mechanic. The level sensor is easy to damage if not removed before disassembling the parts. It’s fragile. I would check that or maybe replace it. Pulling codes would be the smarter way to narrowing the failed component.

 

I see, i didn't know much about that thanks.
As you said, i find it weird how the error popped up suddenly after he worked on the car.

But why did the noise come back after replacing the mounts?

 

curious what you paid for it, dealer or private party?

 

It was done at a private party, the total cost was around 1000$, that's approximate considering the conversion rate between local currency and usd
2 Engine mounts 433$
2 Shock mounts 186$
2 bearings and isulators (aftermarket) 126$
1 shock cover that was missing 33$
And 205$ for 10 hours of labor, it's usually double the price per hour but he's usually giving 50% off.

Doing this work at a dealer or a fancy car warranty provider would have costed 5 to 6 times as much if not more
​​​

 

Oh I meant for the car purchase

 

Lol, i paid around 19000$ and i bought it from a lawyer who replaced it with a bentley 🤣

 

-

 

Wow isn't that well over 10K below market
Oh wait what currency lol

 

USD haha, yes it was a good deal. The moment i saw it, i stopped looking. even though i wanted a fully loaded one, but i had to give up on the extra options for the good condition 🤷🏻‍♂️

 

 

storm gray I take it, interior? what country is this

 

​​​​Interior is black with light grey headliner.
I'm in the UAE, Abu Dhabi.

 

Hi! I have the same problem and have bought the parts to fix my car. My question is every YouTube video I found shows a complete removal of wheel and shock, and then they say an alignment is needed. Did you do it differently? Is there a good YouTube video to follow for ours?

 

Well this is the problem with the internet and places like you tube. There is no one checking that what's posted is correct and then they keep repeating these errors. Nearly everyone posting videos thinks they are going to be a you tube star and please subscribe to my channel. We even have several guys working/milking this board and posting links to video's they constantly make.

I have done this repair and I will tell you for a fact that what I said was true. Now it's not a bad idea to check the front end alignment after the job but who ever said it changes the front end alignment simply does not know what they are talking about. Nothing was moved that affects the front end alignment.

Yes the wheel/rim and strut must be removed. The strut bushing is on top of the strut so how are you going to change it if the strut is not removed?

Are you going to do the work? From your questions it does not sound like it? You don't need a video you just need to understand the mechanic work. It's a very simple repair and that is lucky for us XJ guys because we never get one like that!
.
.
.

 

Well, I WAS considering tackling it myself since it was such an easy job, but it's become clear to me that our versions of "easy" do not align. So, now that I've educated myself a bit, I will gladly leave it to the mechanics. I'm just glad I figured out the problem and got the right parts.

I apologize that my questions upset you. Have a good day.

 

That's good to get educated and now you know that if they suggest a front end alignment it is not needed.
.
.
.

 

Hey guys, sorry i stopped replying here for a while.
excuse my lack of terminology ,
So what my mechanic discovered is that a bushing that must go under the shock mount was put above it which caused one side to be higher than the other, i am honestly not sure what was that exactly, correct me if i'm wrong please.
the wrong placement of this bushing caused stress on the strut for a long time, hence when he removed the shocks one adaptive dynamic sensor was damaged. And of course i needed wheel alignment after all the work was done.

Now after the shock mounts were replaced all the annoying noises disappeared but sometimes at high speeds i hear very slight clicking noises from the front suspension, first i am going to fix the rims and do wheel balance since the front rims were found to be bent which is causing vibration at higher speeds, then will see if the clicking noises subside.

 

Man that was a bad mistake! Do you need another adaptive strut? Those are expensive.
Is he standing by his work and fixing it for you on his dime?
Without a picture I really can see how the strut mount could be installed any other way?

The clicking can come from axles? Is your car AWD? It does not say that in your signature so not sure.
.
.
.