I want to tackle replacing the entire coolant system on my 5.0 supercharged with the aluminum pipes. I also might as well do the crossover pipe.

Is it worth getting OEM? Or does it even matter because OEM is crap? I plan on wrapping the crossover pipe in silicon tape and heat shielding to protect it

 

No such thing as OEM aluminium coolant pipes, they are all still crappy plastic although the two main (front) cross-over pipes are revised and smooth without the problematic seams.
The "best" alu coolant pipes seem to be those from Euro AMP who now sell comprehensive kits for the AJ133 V8 (and AJ126 V6), start here to search for what you want: https://euro-amp.com/collections/jag...nd-rover-parts

 

For what model year did JLR begin changing to new pipes?

 

Thanks for that link, OzXFR!

 

bump.....

 

Problem when the plastic pipe goes. All that coolant and steam can cause damage to the electric fans. A week after my pipes were replaced, my fan stopped working and kept getting temperature warning lights. The light only came on when we were in stop and go traffic. Put the AC on and the fans weren’t running. Easy diagnosis. Replaced the fans. The fans aren’t cheap.

 

The new pipes are still plastic and failure prone. That's why we have the aftermarket Aluminum versions.
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It's my understanding, and I may be wrong, is that the rear crossover pipe is (although still plastic) no longer ultrasonically seam welded from two parts, but is now injection molded as one piece.

The area prone to failure was (is) the seam itself.

If I'm correct, see my earlier caveat, then the requirement of an alloy pipe is mute.

wombat

 

Is it still the case that the "we" right now is only the need for speed crowd with the superchargers?

I keep waiting for the aluminum NA engine parts to become available. Am at 33K on my 2011 XJL so am getting anxious but no leaks so far.

 

Wombat you are correct. Jaguar did upgrade the plastic pipes including the rear water manifold. Can't really say how the manufacturing process changed but visually you can see the early parts have what I call "Fat Seams". The factory replacements/updated parts now have a smoother and smaller seam and while they seem to last longer we have seen multiple failures of the new style as well.

It has nothing to do with racing or performance? It's just a reliability/durability upgrade. No need to do it but with the history of these engines and the low price of the Aluminum parts I decided to get the lifetime ones and just be done with it forever. This is one big problem that you can eliminate 100% so I did!!
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Mine's started leaking (I suspect along the seam) although I was at fault after refitting the rear shroud when replacing the brake booster and likely bumped it against the brittle heater manifold. It's now got an annoying leak...nothing major but definitely have to replace it. Got a new manifold to fit but am wondering which is the best/easiest angle to replace it, by removing the intake manifold, or by removing said shroud, plastic cowling along the bottom of the windscreen, wiper arms etc, torsion bars, under bonnet fuse box(?)

 

Do you have any pictures of this new improved rear heater manifold cross-over pipe?
I recently replace them on both of my engines, bought directly from Jaguar and the only part that they sell for it, and it's exactly the same as the originals, seams and all.
If you have some new part number that supersedes the original one, that would be good too.
I may see that the welding process might have changed, but I see no difference in the part visually
I do seem to recall that the front plastic coolant output pipe from Jaguar for the supercharged engines only may have changed as you're describing (.NOT to be confused with the aftermarket aluminum pipes), but not for the NA engines.
The rear heater manifold pipe is the same for NA and Supercharged engines, by the way. So no difference there.

 

Yes I wish I did have a different part number or picture. When the two front plastic pipes were redesigned I think they did something with the rear manifold but not sure because as you say it still looks the same.

Yes the fat seams are for sure on the early SC cars. The NA I am not sure. They were produced in much lower numbers so not as much info posted about the differences either.

It has been changed on the SC cars without removing the SC but it is tough to do because of the limited room. Since the NA do not have a SC the rear water manifold is much more out in the open. I don't believe the intake needs to come off but again I have the SC engine so can't take a look? Usually it does help to remove the shrouds but again that is more work with additional chances of breaking some more plastic.

Glad to hear the rear manifold is the same for NA and SC engines because we have been shown the V-6 has a different rear manifold from the V-8's and they do not interchange.
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Here is a video of the rear manifold being changed on a 5.0 N/A

It doesn't look that bad of a job.


wombat

 

Hi Wombat,

Yeah I came across that video too and is probably the easiest method. The service manual I've got via here is for the diesel engine, not the 5L N/A so need to find the torque specs and tightening sequence (if any) for the intake manifold, along with with the fuel line across the top of the engine - anyone? Will replace the gaskets whilst in there too.

 

The best source for the real procedures is the JLR ToPIX, which is available to anyone on-line, and is very reasonably priced to subscribe to for anywhere from a day to a year.
IIRC, the intake manifold bolt sequence starts with the center two bolts, then the four corner bolts, then the four remaining bolts in a criss-cross sequence. and the final torque is 18.5 ft.lbs. (25 n m). I just snugged the bolts on the first pass, then came back and torqued.
I suggest you invest a little bit of money for a short subscription of the ToPIX resources, well worth it to make sure you have all the correct steps that can easily be left out from mouth-to-mouth advice & suggestions.
I know I do anytime I have anything critical that isn't simple & intuitive.
I appreciate that JLR makes it available on-line, including access to the same SDD as the dealerships use.

 

Yes thanks again for the added info! So the NA does require the intake manifold to be removed BUT it's not too bad of a job.
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I just saw this post......

We have a 2016, V-6 supercharged XJ-L, and last year, when I was in for the annual oil change and state safety inspection, I asked my dealer's tech if our car had the early or later design pipes, while he had the hood open. He took a look, and said they're the older version (%%$%$#@!!!). So, to answer your question, it's probably some time after the 2016 model year.

 

Thanks for the info! Went on there and printed off the procedure plus a few other things after paying for a days access. Turns out the jaguar procedure for the 5L NA is to remove the windscreen cowling, left and right splash shields and torsion bars, plus disconnecting a few hoses. Certainly not a quick job, especially because the clamps for the coolant hose that mate onto the heater manifold simply refused to co-operate. In the end I simply cut the hose and used a Dremel to cut away the hose clamp. Releasing the T30 bolts that hold the manifold on is a very slow process requiring patience and nimble fingers, plus a bit of swearing. Having the belly pan off means it's easy to rescue a dropped bolt or torx bit 😅. How on earth you're meant to torque the T30 bolts that hold the manifold in place is beyond me. So just made them nice and firm when installing the new one. Used some 19mm ID coolant hose plus stainless solid band SS hose clamps to bridge the missing hose. Refilled with new coolant, tightened the clamps after one end started leaking on the replacement hose. Ran the car until hot air came out the vents and the temp got to normal, bled the air out through the bleed screw and couldn't feel any leaks where the manifold mates onto the engine. Will keep an eye out under the car (belly pan is off) and on the coolant level but currently so far, so good 👍

The offending manifold and clearly shot!

 

Yes, it looks like some leaky spots.
Good that you replaced it before it completely failed.