Hi guys, so my XJ is refusing to lock where when you press the remote lock button you get two beeps. On the instrument cluster its saying drivers door is open even when its closed. I have tried locking the car with the internal lock buttons, on the lock latch on the drivers door still will not lock. I plugged it into JLR SDD today and got the code DDM B1108-11 fault type 11 (general Electrical failure - circuit short to ground.. Just wondering if anyone else has had this problem and if theres any electrical tests I can do to narrow this issue down? Could it be a problem with the door loom? Would replacing the whole lock mechanism with wiring fix the issue?

 

Typically the door lock actuator. It sadly has some really cheap plastic parts in it that seem to wear prematurely. Usually requires a replacement of the actuator itself. A few hundred dollars for the part. You can diy the replacement to save a few hundred on the hour or two of labor it takes

 

From the symptoms it sounds like the latch has worn as BritCars says. A fairly common problem seen on the earlier XJs and XFs which share the same parts.

The code you've read could indicating a wiring fault at the latch. I've replace the driver and rear passenger latches on my 2010 XJ due to the plastic part that engages the 'door is shut' feedback microswitch breaking. I don't recall getting a B1108-11 code for either, but the last was a few years back now so I may have forgotten. You could always strip the door and weather panels off to check the wiring before replacement.

Replacing the latches is not that difficult, but does require removing everything else from the door. I or another forum member can post up the workshop steps if you want to do it yourself. I bought new latches for both of my replacements - I don't recall breaking over £100 for either one.
If you buy a new or used latch then if you are Bournemouth UK bare in mind you probably have double locking latches, so get the right one. If you PM me with your VIN I can look up the part no you need. You might as well check the wiring first though as it only takes 10 minutes to strip the panels off.

As a note - when I first started getting the latch feedback failure I found that opening the door and using a screwdriver to bang the latch around a bit, then slamming the door shut would get it to work for a while. It gradually got worse and worse though, until it failed completely.

In case you are templated to, don't spray any sort of grease into the mechanism to try and free it as they cause dirt to accumulate. Only use a dry lubricant like PTFE or a furniture polish like Pledge to lubricate door latches.

 

Just replace the latch assembly and be done, common issue

 

Anyone know the part number of the driver sir latch to replace. I’m having the same issue with same error code.

 

I have a 2013 Jaguar XJL Portfolio (351). I had a similar issue a couple of years back. It was a sensor in the security system.

 

You did not give any car details so check before ordering!
I think the drivers door latch is #C2D5640 if you have the passive/keyless locking.
.
.
.

 

thank you guys!! it was the door lock actuator. installed it and fixed the problem!!!!!

 

can somebody explain the different style locking and alarm mechanism that makes the lock different. Obviously soft close is pretty obvious but rare.

 

Soft close was made standard for 2014 and was not available before that. So it just depend on the year of the car. Not rare.
Best to look up the latch for your year and see what Jaguar lists?

I have never seen and XJ that did NOT have key less entry but there must be some or the parts listing would not break it out?
.
.
.

 

Partsgeek shows these two description as the options difference.

Trying to understand it. My car has keyless, the buttons on the outer door handles and you can hit once to lock and hit twice to fold the mirrors. I don’t think us markets allows to force lock the poppers on the second lock as if child locks are activated on all locks. But the below description is confusing. I though I had both and that’s not an option.


Chas: -V58602, w/o Keyless Entry w/ Double Locking System

w/ Keyless Entry w/ Single Locking System

 

Below is for my 2013. Maybe the way they advertise causes confusion. Can We make the following assumptions? US cars are passive entry, single locking, despite mirrors folding on the second lock. And double locking meaning, dead lock? Available in other markets? On the aftermarket websites when they mention without keyless they actually mean without passive entry? Soft close is pretty obvious. The ambiguity comes with the definition of double locking. Is there with passive and dead lock in the UK or is that combination not available. BTW passive is the ability of reach for the handle and unlocking the car by simply pulling no need to use the key fob.

 

I am working on replacing my drivers door latch on my 2014 XJR and find two different part numbers are listed? Both show to fit my car on the Jaguar factory parts sites?
C2D49432 which is shown in the above post with double locking but it also shows 2011-2020 which has to be wrong because soft close doors were installed starting in 2014 and the door latches are different. I also find C2D49433 which mentions soft close doors but not double locking? This one looks better as it's listed for 2014-2021?

I have a sent an E-mail to Jaguar to see if they can tell me what to use based on my VIN.

It appears that something went wrong with the soft close system? I got out of the car to fill up and apparently had my hand on the door handle and NOT the door itself when I closed it. I thought I heard a "pop" sound and then filled the car up. Now I can hear the motors working fine but the door is not drawn closed. It shuts and functions in all other ways fine. So I can live with it and I am not really fond of the entire soft close system anyway.

I did what xdave did up thread by poking around on the latch mechanism with the door open and it all seems to click back and forth OK. Definitely inside as the soft close motors are plainly making noise and do the two stage sound as do the other 3 doors that the soft close works fine on.

Looking in the service manual it looks like Jaguar wants you to remove the drivers side window completely? I see instructions for just pushing the window all the up and closed and then using masking tape to hold it up on other car models doing this repair? Can anyone add any suggestions?

First failure I have had in 3 years and I think I might have caused the damage too.
.
.
.

 

I will add my question to this topic:
3 of my door lock buttons are not working. Only front passenger locks the car. Probably will have to take appart all handles to see what may caused it as in this topic
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xj-x351-53/lock-actuator-how-remove-239701/#post2315004
It should not be fuse or relay related. Hope its just connector or loose wire.
Any advice if thats common? Is that lock option somehow managed in menu?

 

Well strangely Jaguar came back with C2D49432 as correct for my VIN of V58603. NOT C2D49433 which plainly mentions soft close doors? I am still not sure but did find something that matches my problem very closely and I have never heard of it?

Fist when I hook up the car to SDD I don't get any errors related to the door latches or locking systems? I expected to find an error code like Sully114 did in the original post. Again my car (2014 XJR) and the soft close feature work correctly except the drivers door does not latch using the soft close. You can plainly hear the two step motor noise so it's trying but something is missing (Broken) or perhaps has become disconnected in the system somewhere?

Did come up with a completely unexplained code that apparently means nothing? Plus the other ones are just network errors and I don't think they mean anything either?
B0000-00 PCM
U0208-00 IPC
U0140-00 SCMF-->PCM

So nothing in SDD at all? If the system does not think anything is wrong then it must be a part that is not monitored or can even set error codes?
I found that soft close cars (All brands not just Jaguar) have an actuator suction motor. This is what you hear when the soft close is in operation. This is separate gear box with a cable coming out of it going to the door latch. Here is a Jaguar XJ drivers door latch with the soft close or "suction" motor as it's sometimes called.





The inside of this suction motor looks like this;




Now this is the interesting thing I found when looking for a replacement door latch? The above green plastic gear is what fails. Using part number C2D49432 I found a number of replacement plastic gears as well as a REALLY nice Aluminum one made by the aftermarket! So if there is enough failures that someone made a metal replacement gear this must be at least somewhat common?

Apparently NOT very common for Jaguar as these are all listed for LR and have part number LR064860 but the ad does mention it fits most Jaguar's too. Further digging and this soft close door failure is more common on BMW and MB cars as well as Audi. All the top end cars offer or have offered soft close doors now and in the past so there are a lot of them out there.

The nice metal gear is only around $20 so I think I will order it anyway as I have been holding off opening up the drivers door as the latch replacement requires the entire front window to be removed along with the drivers external door handle. Both of which I would prefer to NOT touch!

The plastic gear is even on EBay and Amazon showing it's fit's BMW and Jaguar. So they sell them all over?

Metal Gear For Soft Close Motor




Anyone replace this gear before? It's available in SS and Aluminum.
Note that this motor is also used on the XJ for the soft close trunk. Again no mention of failures or repairs that I can find.
.
.
.

 

If the drivers door soft close has never worked. Check in the trunk near the battery as the soft close on the drivers door is disabled during transport and when PDI is done the wire needs to bel plugged together. I think it's a green wire. Just a thought.

 

Yes that's a common one but as I posted the soft close function has always worked on my car until I closed the door and heard that "soft" pop sound. Plus the soft close is still operating because the door makes exactly the same sound as before when it was operational.

I hope I can find it when I pull the door card. Was trying to get parts ahead of time but still not sure and that latch is $300+ compared to $20 for the replacement gear/wheel.
So I will order the metal replacement gear as I can stand to lose $20 easier than $300+!
.
.
.

 

Finally got around to fixing this. As I correctly guessed the plastic gear that pulls on the latch to soft close the door was broken. That was the "pop" that I heard when it broke.





Here is the metal replacement gear next to the broken factory plastic part.





Had a hard time finding anything out about this repair which is strange since these metal replacement gears are sold all over?? So failure must be pretty common but again not really anything on this forum about the repair either.
Here is the backside of the gear showing the 4 idler gears that need to be transferred over to the metal gear.




And finally the most important picture because when I pried the case apart there is a spring loaded arm that flew out and I had no idea how it all went together. Of course no mention of this in any Jaguar manual either!

After some back and forth I did find a few partial pictures and got it back together and working fine.




Couple of things to note in that picture. There are 3 tabs that orient the grey plastic part that's under the metal gear these clock the grey plastic properly in the case. Next note the white gear on the right. It has a tab that sticks up and provides a stop so things don't over travel. Next note where the spring contacts the arm. What you can't see is the other end of the spring inserts into a pocket next to the pivot point of the arm and points straight down. You can see the spring coiled around the arm pivot in the picture.

The soft close actuator motor is rubber mounted to the inside of the door only. No bolts or screws. These are tapered rubber mounts/pins that are forced into and out of the mounting holes. I found the side that mounts to the motor easier to insert and remove. The end that goes thru the door metal is much harder to pry in and out. I did it that way but then tried putting the rubber pins in the door metal first and then pushing the actuator case over the inside mounting pins. That was a bit easier but the rubber will be a fight.

Only the door panel needs to be removed as the soft close actuator is right there when it's removed. I was real glad it was not the door latch as I had priced that out at almost $400! Plus that requires the window glass and the regulator to be removed which a LOT more work!

Be sure and lubricate it all too. I like Lithium spray grease on plastic gears. It's easy to test with the door panel off. Just gently close the door and let it pull in like normal. After it's closed and latched you can easily pull the cable going to latch to release the door so you not trapped in the car!
.
.
.

 

As I mentioned in another post, left rear passenger door suddenly stopped "soft closing" around 10 days back. When I try shutting the door softly while seated inside the car, I can hear the soft close motor rumbling (just like on other doors) but the door doesn't get pulled in. I figured that there must be something broken or malfunctioning inside the "suction motor" module. I might take it to a mechanic to have a look but I am also really tempted to troubleshoot myself! Thanks for all this valuable info above.

 

I think your right. Mine did the same thing. Made noise like the other doors but nothing happened.
Might be another broken plastic gear?
.
.
.