Yeah…. My bad. WRong post. Got mixtup. Sorry. It's for steering pump post

 

No problem!
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Just got one…. Brand new second hand one, like mat Armstrong says, British youtube.
I opened it, Bord seems ok, no black brown areas or connectors. It was sealed by the sticker in the pic. Never opened.
Just one question for you guys who did this……
You changed the whole piece, with the radiator or only the electronic board?
How tricky was to get it out?

Thx in advance for the info

 

No answer but thank you for the picture as I have never seen this large electric heater before because it's only installed on Diesels.
Learn something new everyday on this forum!
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If needed can take pics with measurement

 

No but thanks anyway. Being in the US I doubt I will ever see a Diesel powered X351.
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hahahahah….. How to fix rusted truck? No thx…….😂😂

 

Hi danu99

I have done this fix for one XJ. The heater core is so long that you have to remove lot of stuff to have space enough for pulling it out. Therefore its easyer to change the control PCB.
Done it using this guide from fellow who have done t before: https://www.jaguarforum.com/threads/...t#post-1550672
I used a car lift to raise vehicle a bit to have better postion going under dash. Even 40cm make big a difference. (don´t crack your back)
An USB endoscope for for phone was good tool to see how things fit or how they are attached, because most of the times your hands cover your sight. When handling the PCB avoid static charges and use good quality thermal paste for the PCB. (computer shops)

 

Where to put the thermal paste? In the board.…inside the plastic case?

 

When you remove the board by four torx and lift it from metal frame, you will find that the transistors are cooled to the metal. You will spot the dryed up thermal paste as gray "clay" on surfaces needed it. Clean the old away by brake cleaner etc and add new paste to the same spots before mounting the new board.

 

Ok ok ok. Got it. Great info. Thx

 

Can someone help me?
After the sound 🤣succes with changing the cluster fan(will post pics soon), I want to do the next in the dash job at home myself( cheap ******* I know🤣&#129315
So…. Heard that you only have to change the electronic board. O got the screws out and…. Won't move! Tryed to move it slightly with a screw driver, seems glued with that grey paste you se coming out from under it!
1….. How to un glue it? Heat? Constant pressure?
2….. Probably same with the one on the car?
3……one of the connectors is thru the boar, thru a metal sleave! How to approach that?

I know I have some pics from a thread somewhere….. But if someone knows where is the thread more precisely, you'd spare me of hours of searching g I line or on my photo screen archive!

Ps: seems like a really really tricky job. The good part….. Its left hand drive, no steering column to get out 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

 

Yes, its is bit tricky and dangerous for your spine by working position.
Check that you removed 4 torx screws holding PCB.
The PCB have push fit commectors for resistors generating heat. These come out only straight upwards. Also Plus input voltage pole have tight fit with its insulator
I added forces side by side with wide plastic pray tool from each sides until everything gave up and PCB just dropped out.
Some WD40 can soften the heat paste a bit.

 

sure…. In the donor board…… but in the car, in that right Space, what did you use to pry the pcb out? Plastic levers or metal-screwdrivers?

 

And….. Did you use a heat gun? Or only mechanical force?

 

I used plastic pray tool mention for used exsample interior parts, door liners, etc. It have an bend end so i got the tool under pcb.
Heat gun do not help. Heat have cooket the thearmal paste for hard compound now securing pcb in place.
Note: You have new working one... ... No mercy moment?

 

No mercy 🤣🤣 I want to get this also fixed this summer, allone, in the parking lot. After that, the error on the parking brake, intermittent. And that's it. For next summer, sunroof shade mechanism and maybe, re upholster the roof. Maybe a burgundy, like the dash and steering wheel! I not too found with current beige shade 🤣🤣
The objective is no errors, even the small and unused systems. Even those not permanent! .
I still have to figure out…. Errors on the sound system multimedia, but they work just fine and good! So….

 

I think my auxilary heater PCB is now on the way as well. Sometimes when i open divers door i hear tik,tik,tik sound from aircon flaps and there are interment LIN bus error code, just same symphons my friend had. I just ordered an used one from eBay. Will do it before winter. Learning from last time i think i will remove drivers seat from the car to get layed down position, instead having an S-curved position from outside of car.

 

seat remouval….. Just screws and electric connections? Maybe air lines for massage?
Any special tools? Any tips for tricky stuff? O got out the front seats in other cars…. Even Mercedes, with air side bolsters.…… maybe more difficult on the jaag!???? And taking out the door the seat….. The classical flotation on one side to get it out the door?

 

Just 4 torx and connectors. Air pump for massaging / side bolsters / lumbar are attached under the seat, so its simple to disconnect. Once screws are out drive the backrest as forward as it will go to have seat as compact as possible. Now remove electrics and it should come out thru front door opening.