The speed sensor code is probably only going to set off the abs light. As long as you do not get a flashing mil light you can drive safely. If the speed sensor is trans related you will need to research that code as to what sensor it refers to

 

Scottjh9, The CEL light is the only one that has ever come on and initially when I had codes checked it was only these:

P2402 Evaporative Emissions System Leak; Detection pump control circuit high (three of these)
P2406 Evaporative Emissions System Leak; Detection pump sense circuit high
U0401-68 Invalid data received from engine control module/ powertrain control module
P0500-81 Vehicle speed sensor A (I have used waze with it during directions and the speedo is right on)


Then when I had the purchase inspection at my jag shop, It was given these:

Codes 2402 and 2406 from above were not on report.
U0401-68 is gone, but replaced with U3000 Control Module (IC)
B1D64 AND B1D65 for headlamp motors, but they both work. Turning LEDs come on & both Adaptive lights function. I read it may be headlamp control module, but I am still trying to find where it is located.
P0500-81 Speed sensor A
P2601, which concerns me the most as it says 'coolant pump' to intercooler is what I read, but he just put 'coolant pump & t-stat' on report. I'll check fuses first, but that seems easy enough.
--------- if it's not functioning, I would think I would have problems. My temp guage never changes from normal also.

 

Well to answer your question yes you can let the codes go but we have not talked about getting the car inspected?
Do you know and understand what the "Readiness Monitors" are?

If not take a look here;
What are Readiness Monitors?

I have not seen you post anything about P1000 and P1111? Anytime you clear codes ALL the readiness monitors are reset. Now the car must be driven in certain ways so the system can run tests to determine if certain parts of the system are working properly. One thing to note is regardless of anything else you will always have one or the other of these codes. P1111 means they are set and your car is ready for emission testing. P1000 they are NOT set and you are NOT ready for emission testing. Now depending on where you live different states have different rules on this too. Many states will let you pass if only 1 or 2 readiness monitors are not set. In other states they ALL must be set before you can pass.

Does your scanner tell you which monitors have set and which ones have not? There are a least one or two monitors that can take a very long time to reset because of the odd driving patterns required. I have printed the driving instructions out before and then got out in the country with little traffic so I could follow what they call "The Drive Cycle" required so the monitor can make it's measurements.

Also just a note? We do NOT have a temperature gauge! We have an "indicator" which means it's useless. It will not move over a very large range of temperature because Jaguar got too many owner/warranty complaints when the gauge actually moved. So it's now "damped" so it's nice and stable but your car's coolant temperature can be all over the place. Again you can easily use an aftermarket scanner to monitor your car's coolant temperature in real time. I do this using Torque Pro and do recommend this to anyone. The coolant temperature in these cars is critical and you MUST NOT drive a inch further when it gets hot. Stop driving immediately! So many destroyed cars are from people trying to just make it home or to the next exit. No that's what kills your car!

But keep at it! Your making progress too.
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Thank you so much for taking time out of your day to help me out. I really, really appreciate it.

I don’t have a scanner tool yet. When I picked up the car there was no CEL. Drove it on a small road trip where I am embarrassed to admit that I put plus fuel, not premium in it. Lol I didn’t think it would hurt anything because I was driving on highway anyway. That’s when CEL came on right after. I just want to a parts store to find out real quick because I was traveling and those are the codes I initially posted. When I finally took it to the shop, the rest of the codes were there. Maybe they were there before, but not picked up by basic scanner, IDK.
I don’t want to leave any of them, just don’t know which to make priority.

I was thinking I should do coolant tank and sensor and maybe thermostat sensor, but now it makes sense you telling me about temp indicator.

The fans did come on last night as I was getting home from a drive and I have never heard them on before. They were very loud. Lol No steam. No heat. No other symptoms. Resovoir looked over full.

 

Just keep an eye on the coolant and work thru your problems. As posted above this is MANDATORY! Overheat the engine and it's game over.
I do think you going to need a better scanner but that's up to you? When I first heard about the Factory SDD stuff it was just too complicated. BUT after further study I realized that there really is nothing else if you want to stay away from the dealer.

The good thing is there are a limited number of known problems and when you get those taken care of you should be good to go. Cooling system would be the number one area so make sure the water pump and cooling tubes are up to date. I really recommend the aftermarket Aluminum stuff too. Note these are ONLY available for the 3.0 and 5.0 SC engines right now! PS; Don't forget to also get the WP to the oil cooler tube as it's now out in Aluminum too.

I always feel good doing what I call a permanent repair rather than a patch job like replacing plastic/rubber components that will likely fail again in the future. No problem with replacing those items you mentioned but again do they need it? Let's get everything else fixed first and come back to that if you want to?

Also not mentioned is the SC snout clonk noise. Very common and not a big problem but it does need to be replaced and IF your removing the SC to do other work now is the time. Not sure how far your going but again if any plans to port the blower OR have a smaller pulley installed do it when the blower is off the car. It's easy to hear by doing this - with the car running open the drivers door and shut off the radio. Now turn off the engine and listen. Mine has a noticeable "clatter" on shut down but you do need to listen for it.

Note Jaguar made a change to the snout as they went from a vacuum bypass system to an electric version on the latter cars. Yours is the earlier vacuum version and that's not a problem just be sure and get the correct snout if your buying another one and NOT rebuilding your stock unit. I got lucky on my 2014 and found a brand new Jaguar one on EBay for around $250. I have yet to install it and have the Aluminum cooling pipes waiting in the wings when I do fix this. I am still debating getting a port and pulley installed as I have the lower pulley and stage II tune already.
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Could you elaborate on this post? I cannot find my 2nd spare key and I likely need to get the spare replaced.

 

if you lose your only key it is expensive and sometimes difficult to have one made and coded. I would suggest taking a few good photos of your key from all sides and saving them. It shows the cuts and body of the key. There is a forum member who can make these keys from a good photo but you still have to program them somehow. He can clone them i think but needs a working key to do it

 

The terminology we use regarding this subject is sometimes confusing. Our cars have several "keys".
The fob, which has two styles, early and late. The early ones are huge and heavy, and owners of these cars often swap innards into aftermarket housings, which mimic the later, smaller style. The circuit board must be trimmed slightly to fit in the later case. A working early fob can thus be transformed into a later fob with no electric or electronic modification.
The lock and unlock "key", contained in the fob function. Many aftermarket fobs can be easily programmed by the user to perform the "button" functions of the fob. These functions require good coin cell battery voltage.
The metal emergency key, included with OE fobs, but often missing in resale transactions. Identical to similar Ford emergency keys, and must be cut by a genuine locksmith, not your local hardware store. This key opens the drivers door only, after removal of a decorative plastic cover on the handle. If the car has been electronically locked, unlocking with this key will result in an alarm when the door is opened, and only a working fob can silence it. This metal key fits inside early, later, and most aftermarket fobs.
The ignition "key" contained in the OE fob. Does not require coin battery voltage and operates separately from the button features above. This is the tricky part of a successful replacement fob. Requires programming by a JLR dealer or a specialist automotive locksmith with the correct software.

 

my mistake i think...i was responding as having a physical key to operate the vehicle...i forgot i was in the newer xj forum where i believe the 'key' is more of a fob and is pricier yet...this type of security i have no experience with....sorry for the confusion...i do believe sdd/ids software can at least program for you

 

Good summary by Baltobernie too!
Yes what I am saying is if you now only have one key/FOB for your car work on getting a second one BEFORE it becomes a big problem.
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