Sudden but temporary overheating then back to normal
#1
Sudden but temporary overheating then back to normal
Hello all,
i have the 5L naturally aspirated V8 2011 XJL.
Other day was at airport picking up the spouse. Flight was delayed and ended up circling the LAX airport at 5mph for a little over 1 hour.
All of a sudden the AC goes off, the engine temp needle starts to move towards the red and gets to the red in about 10 seconds, “Engine Overheating” message appears on instrument cluster/screen.
Pull over and and turn it off, pop the hood, no leaking, no coolant explosions.
5 minutes later I turn on the car and everything is fine again. No overheating message, no error message saved in the messages section, A/C works again. So weird.
Then it happened again and just as soon as it happened it went away.
Picked up the spouse and drive home on the highway with no problems.
I did did a quick google search and read that this may be thermostat related? Also found that the Engine may not have actually overheated?
Drove for another 2 days and nothing wrong at all. Drives great.
Then tonight the dreaded engine malfunction icon comes on. My OBD2 reader produces the P0106 error code regarding the MAP sensor which I think is the mass air flow sensor?
Has as anyone heard/experienced this? Solutions? Recommendations? Anything to swap to be proactive? Did I really overheat my engine and am I basically looking at a soon to be blown engine from warpage? Am on my second factory engine (covered by warranty) because first engine blew a head gasket and engine block warped. Thanks for any pearls of wisdom.
i have the 5L naturally aspirated V8 2011 XJL.
Other day was at airport picking up the spouse. Flight was delayed and ended up circling the LAX airport at 5mph for a little over 1 hour.
All of a sudden the AC goes off, the engine temp needle starts to move towards the red and gets to the red in about 10 seconds, “Engine Overheating” message appears on instrument cluster/screen.
Pull over and and turn it off, pop the hood, no leaking, no coolant explosions.
5 minutes later I turn on the car and everything is fine again. No overheating message, no error message saved in the messages section, A/C works again. So weird.
Then it happened again and just as soon as it happened it went away.
Picked up the spouse and drive home on the highway with no problems.
I did did a quick google search and read that this may be thermostat related? Also found that the Engine may not have actually overheated?
Drove for another 2 days and nothing wrong at all. Drives great.
Then tonight the dreaded engine malfunction icon comes on. My OBD2 reader produces the P0106 error code regarding the MAP sensor which I think is the mass air flow sensor?
Has as anyone heard/experienced this? Solutions? Recommendations? Anything to swap to be proactive? Did I really overheat my engine and am I basically looking at a soon to be blown engine from warpage? Am on my second factory engine (covered by warranty) because first engine blew a head gasket and engine block warped. Thanks for any pearls of wisdom.
#2
Had a similar experience back when I was into modding cars. While driving, right after doing an engine swap/ mod, my temp gauge went up all of a sudden to red zone then stayed up for a little then came back down. (and it was happening randomly) Found out that I had an air pocket in the coolant system. So whenever the air pocket got stuck around the temp censer it shot up the gauges. I just had to bleed the system. Mind you this happened to a different car (240SX) but maybe its worth checking it out. 240sx had a bleeder on top of the radiator so the only thing I had to do was open the nozzle then close it. Not sure how XJ coolant system works.
Hope you figure it out soon.
Hope you figure it out soon.
#3
I had similar issues on my X350 (2004 XJ), but the cycle would start with a restricted performance, then the temp gauge would rise to max in about 10 seconds. I would shut down the engine, wait 5-10 seconds, and restart the car, and the temp gauge would be back at mid-point or a bit lower. The other symptom I noticed was that the temp gauge was rising slower from cold, and usually settle in below the mid-point on the gauge, and when highway driving it would drop to about 1/3rd. In my case it turned out to be a problem with the thermostat gasket.
#4
MAP sensor is different from the MAF. Manifold Air Pressure sensor. Located somewhere on the intake manifold. On the old 4.2s it was on the rear side.
Did you notice if your engine fan was running? My old car started periodically overheating and I couldn't figure out why until I realized the fan was malfunctioning. Sometimes it would work, sometimes not. And the AC would shut off each time because apparently the fan and AC are interlinked. I replaced the fan with one from a breakers yard and everything was good again.
Did you notice if your engine fan was running? My old car started periodically overheating and I couldn't figure out why until I realized the fan was malfunctioning. Sometimes it would work, sometimes not. And the AC would shut off each time because apparently the fan and AC are interlinked. I replaced the fan with one from a breakers yard and everything was good again.
#5
#6
After reading the posts. If this car has been running fine no issues, and just started acting up, with no blown hoses, belt broke, or leaks. Then I'm inclined to think it could be a thermostat. A bad sensor, or possibly the colling fan not coming on, as needed. The thing to do, is buy a small hand held temperature gun, less then $20.00 Us dollars at, Harbor Freight, or an equivalent store. And when it does go hot, quickly raise the hood, and start checking the "actual" temp on the engine near the heads, or intake where the coolant hoses are attached, then check at the radiator, where the coolant hoses attach. Your readings should be around 180's to low 200's if you see 230 +degrees or more. You have a definite issue, and need the car assessed, by a qualified mechanic. Before you do have a real problem. Nowadays 210 degrees is a pretty normal range for engine operating temperature. Hope it helps.
jack
jack
#7
After reading the posts. If this car has been running fine no issues, and just started acting up, with no blown hoses, belt broke, or leaks. Then I'm inclined to think it could be a thermostat. A bad sensor, or possibly the colling fan not coming on, as needed. The thing to do, is buy a small hand held temperature gun, less then $20.00 Us dollars at, Harbor Freight, or an equivalent store. And when it does go hot, quickly raise the hood, and start checking the "actual" temp on the engine near the heads, or intake where the coolant hoses are attached, then check at the radiator, where the coolant hoses attach. Your readings should be around 180's to low 200's if you see 230 +degrees or more. You have a definite issue, and need the car assessed, by a qualified mechanic. Before you do have a real problem. Nowadays 210 degrees is a pretty normal range for engine operating temperature. Hope it helps.
jack
jack
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#9
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@Quartzboy, after a cold soak, preferably overnight, use a cooling system pressure tester to pressurise the system to 1 bar, then check for leaks if the pressure begins to drop.
If you see no loss of pressure, the thermostat may be failing and intermittently sticking closed causing the rise in temperature.
DO NOT rely on the instrument cluster gauge to determine coolant temperature. Use a smart phone with the Torque app to access the vehicle's PCM through the OBD port via a Bluetooth interface to read coolant temperature in real-time. As mentioned in one of the earlier posts, engine overheating can cause catastrophic engine damage if ignored.
If you see no loss of pressure, the thermostat may be failing and intermittently sticking closed causing the rise in temperature.
DO NOT rely on the instrument cluster gauge to determine coolant temperature. Use a smart phone with the Torque app to access the vehicle's PCM through the OBD port via a Bluetooth interface to read coolant temperature in real-time. As mentioned in one of the earlier posts, engine overheating can cause catastrophic engine damage if ignored.
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