How many Nm the RoadForce balancer give on each wheel for pressure roller? I got one a tyre what give 130Nm (edit: Mean to type N, not Nm) to roller, even wheel was complete balanced. Everything over 80 feels on chassis/steering.
Tyreshop try to rotate tyre in the rim, but because rim was totaly round on 0.1mm accurate, there are nothing to do than replace. I will drive it up to end of this summer and replace it before next spring. It is not too bad.
Tyre have propably internal fail what cause it streching in some part on speed and load.

 

Are you sure it's Nm and not N? My US machine gives lb, which is a force, as is Newtons. Nm is Newton/metres, which is a torque.

130 newtons = about 30 lbs, which you would definitely feel.

I thought my wheels were bad, as even with Roadforce balancing I got high numbers - 17, 23, 6, and 30 lbs for the four wheels. 4 lbs pull on the fronts. The 30 lbs was right rear.

I changed the worn Pirelli A/S tires to Michelin Pilot Sport A/S, and now get 13, 9, 9, and 14 lbs. 2 lbs pull. Ride is noticeably smoother.

Moral : Michelin tires have the best quality control. Nothing I didn't already know!

 

You are right. My hands works faster than my brain: It is Newtons, not Nm. (automatic typing from spine )

 

I also found this to be true when using Road Force machines. I don't like the very high prices for Michelin tires but they have in my experience been the best that money can buy.
Unfortunately!!!
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I don't know the road force numbers. It seems all the America's Tires in my area just shovel you through the door as fast as possible. At least the tech at Firestone took some extra time to inspect the suspension, etc...however he did miss something that I didn't even know existed until just a day ago...hubcentric rings.

This being the first set of aftermarket wheels I've ever run, I was entirely unfamiliar with these extra details. The center bore on the wheels is 72.6mm while the bore on the hub is 63.4mm, almost 10mm difference. I guess the center bore on most aftermarket wheels is larger in order to accommodate a wider range of vehicles. Then you use an adapter hubcentric ring to close the gap. The lug nuts by themselves are not enough to keep the wheel properly centered, in most cases.

I popped off the center caps and looked inside. The driver side front wheel does have a ring but it looks like it may be 1mm too small. You can see the bore of the wheel is not centered completely on the hub. Its resting on the top half of the hub, leaving a tiny 1mm gap at the bottom. The passenger side front wheel doesn't have a ring at all. The rears have rings and look ok but who knows for sure. I've ordered a set of 63.4 to 72.6 rings off Amazon. I'm praying this does the trick.

 

Yes I have to ask specifically for the report each time, they don't give it to you by default.

 

You had a great wheel in the Matavia, as that is what I have and wanted. As for bending, I've had mine straightened several times over the years. As for mounting and balancing road force is critical and if it's above 10 lb my tire shop deflated breaks the bead and rotates 180 degrees. If still out the do it again and rotate 90 degrees more and that invariably takes me to under 10 and closer 5 lb. I'm a Michelin fan and especially the PS4S tires having them on both my XJ and the wife's SQ5. If your tire shop will not accommodate rotating the tire for low road force I'd recommend finding a performance tire shop that will make it right. Lastly, any shop that would sell you a wheel and mount it and it doesn't fit correctly are hacks and I would see about returning those wheels and remounting your Matavia. IMHO

 

That's good info, thanks.

I got the aftermarket wheels used from a fellow Jaguar Forum member but had the America's Tire mount my existing tires on to them. I loved the Mataivas as well but one was bent and I couldn't find anyone reputable in my area to straighten it out. The aftermarket set was a good deal so I just went with that. Plus they're a good deal lighter than the Mataivas and give the car a meaner look with their offsets which perfectly fill out the fenders. No need for spacers.

I also had tough luck trying to find a decent performance shop that will actually respond to my inquiries.

Re the Michelins, I don't know why I had such a bad experience with them last year when everyone seems to rave about them.

 

A lack of hubcentric rings for aftermarket wheels could definitely cause some issues. Did you install the wheels yourself or did a shop do it for you? I guess they should have caught it one of the times they roadforced your rims/ tires though.

 

Living in LA should be easy to find a wheel repair shop. Maybe your local JLR dealer has a recommendation or a good body shop would, for sure, know a good wheel repair shop. I have had my wheels repaired and powder coated many times by my local company Wheel Wizard and the cost round @ $180 per wheel.


a repaired wheel, like new

 

Admittedly, I had never heard of these rings as I've had zero experience with aftermarket wheels, so I obviously never checked to see if they were on. I am a bit dismayed that 3 professional shops missed this detail. I've been running these wheels since February and, while the steering wheel wobble has been present all along, its gotten a lot worse lately and vibrations have been added to mix. I've been doing a lot of suspension work during the quarantine in an attempt to stop these problems, so I wonder if the rings were deformed by all the times I took the wheels off. And maybe that missing passenger side ring fell out while the "pros" were balancing.

You'd be surprised how difficult it is to find competent automotive techs in this town. And the local Jag dealers are completely useless. That's the whole reason I started doing my own wrenching.

Actually, now that I think about it, I could've reached out to Chris at Mina Gallery...oh well, whats done is done.

 

All the tire stores in OC use a place in Santa Ana to fix bent rims. Not sure if that’s too far for you. I can look up the name of the place off you’re interested, they did three of mine.

 

Are the Mataivas forged rims?
I ask because I have had bent rims in the past but since I got the XJR with 20" Farallon Technical Grey forged rims.
No bent rims yet?

I did get them re-powder coated because of curb rash and the fact I never could match the factory shade exactly.
Plus I wanted all 4 to match.



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Matavia wheels are cast as the designations are raised and not stamped in

 

So the new hubcentric rings cut down about 90% of the vibrations and steering wheel wobble. There's still a little bit of vibration right at 70-80mph depending on the road conditions. I'll live with it for a few days and decide what my next course of action will be.

 

Very nice to hear.
I recommend to take your XJ to the 4-wheel alligment. Based on that you wrote earlier that you had understeering with grippy tyres, you might have some extra toe-in or too high negative Camber angle. -> Both of your front tyres want to go inwards and therefore they bend sidewalls and you sense the road surface. Vibration come from sidewall(s) bending up to the point when it jumps back and start over again, ie tyre do "fish tailing".
XJ suspension are very sensitive for alligment.
Just a though.

 

That's good info. Thanks.

 

Update: The heavy wobble/shake in the steering has been replaced with intermittent vibrations felt in the wheel and in the seat depending on road conditions but so far its not always consistent. For example, there's a certain stretch of freeway where it only sometimes exhibits the vibration. Additionally, something in the steering at highway speeds feels wonky, like a light wandering or pulling or tramlining. So my next action will be getting the car realigned.

I'm thinking about ditching performance summer tyres and getting some nice comfortable all-seasons. The roads around here are just too rough. Anybody have any suggestions?

 

.... Well... I live in Finland, where roads are raped with ice, shlus, water, salt and all combined, about 4 months in a year. Add spiked wintertyres in a mess and you can imagine the road surface here. Still my XJ glides smooth and straight with 19" set of Dunlop Sport Maxx:es. When i bought it from Germany, 2years ago, it was not running so nice. It haved too much toe-in on front and rear axle causing it wondering all over the place. 1st time the shop acidently used XF values, but they call me to come back on my way home and 2nd time XJ calmed totally down. (until i bought new set of tyres, where one front had 130n force on even balanced, but thats another story)

Try realigment, use tyrepressures recomended on sticker on door pillar. When you wrote your senses of highway speeds i suspect the lower front suspension arm ("Banana arm") inner bushes worn, what are typical somewhere after 40t mil / 60t km, but you wrote eralier that all these have bee changed... Anyway: If the vibrations are internittent and chances by road surface, you are very near of goal. Road surface causes different loads for the tyre, and more presice the angle of rotation / weight centered to the tyre, less forces effec it from surface. When you take it to the shop, check that they have correct values. XJ are not very common vehicle, so shop might not have values preloaded on their machine and then need to be entered manually. (this happened to me)
If you are still unhappy go for all-seasons, but then keep your finger off from DSC button. I have an Diesel and it enables traction control easy in 45mph / 70kmh speed with winter tyres on dry road.

 

had a local tinter out at our workshop. had the jag dechromed, roof wrapped in black and tinted.

waiting to smoke front and rear lights.

before


after