Ha ha ha this car is unbelievable.. now my starter went out. I think. It’s one thing after the next. I’ve said that before with other cars but this car has an extra special way of really bringing on problem after problem. Beating myself up about this car purchase. Unreal!

 

Ok, settle down (I tell myself) the starter was a pretty easy fix and I’ve got my EVAP pump going in today. This is also my second day driving the vehicle after new coil springs, bearings and strut mounts and replacement air filters. The car is riding pretty darn smooth and clunks and rattles have been reduced to almost nothing. The tire pressure sensors will go in once I get them so all in all I think the car is doing pretty great for now.

 

The Jaguar dealership diagnostic software SDD (Not SDS as an earlier post mentions) has a suspension calibration routine during which you enter the height of each wheel center to wheel arch and it recalibrates your suspension. Sounds like you would benefit from this. Dealers have this software but there are also independents that use it and some forum members (not sure who in the Minnesota area but you cold post a help request in the forum regions section & or general tech help) BTW dielectric grease is an insulator so you shouldn't be putting that into a connector

 

Arggghhhh Sorry about that. I was off track.
I haven't had to use it for so long, it's hard for me to get it right.
I last tried to use it on my 2012 Range Rover, but my SDD is vehicle-specific, so I'll need to subscribe to SDD for that, if that gives me enough problems to support the price.
But if you want to price-out the SDD subscription from TOPIx where you can set-up a JLR TOPIx account here:

https://topix.landrover.jlrext.com/t...cle/lookupForm

...Sorry for the misnomer.

 

I believe I could benefit from the suspension calibration also. I have the tool that allows me to enter calibration values but while starting the calibration process my tool tells me I need a specific measuring tool and I didn’t know where to obtain the tool. If it’s as simple as measuring from a specific spot in the wheel to the wheel arch then I could for sure enter those values into the scan tool and lock those calibration settings. Fortunately the use of dielectric grease hasent caused any issues for me. I used the grease mainly as a sealer and not directly on the connections which now, reading about how the grease works I’ll consider myself lucky.

one good note, I got my EVAP pump changed today, literally took 25 minuets from start to finish and now I have no more check engine light.

i would love to read more about the suspension calibration and if it can be performed with conventional measuring tools. If I can figure out how to obtain the values I know my scan tool has the menus to input the values. I’ve depleted the air in the rear suspension and tanks several times and filled it back up again using my scan tool. Here’s a pic of it without air.

 

Wow, what a beautiful XJL! I would throw all my money at that too. I hope you can get her fixed to your liking.

 

Thanks, this isn’t it’s best camera angle but it’s kind of a cool pic being that you rarely see the car without air in the suspension. I ordered the Continental TPMS sensors that you advised me to get from rock auto yesterday (saved me about $160 over what my mechanic was going to charge for a universal) and they should be here Monday. So as of Tuesday I’ll be completed with following everyone’s advice here and hopefully I’ll have no check engine light, no tire warnings, no rattles or clunks. Looking forward to Tuesday!

i have to post another of what it looks like normally here and once the car is done to my liking (hopefully Tuesday) I’ll take some time out to get some real pictures

 

The tool is very rudimentary and you can easily fabricate or measure the same values, see attached for images & information on its use. Also peruse the dynamic suspension information as this will explain more of its operation and maybe give you some clues on what's causing the suspension to be low on one side. If you can get access to SDD that would be very helpful in reading any stored DTC codes that would guide you to potential root causes. I believe most third party code readers cannot read/extract Jaguar suspension codes.

 

Im going to give the suspension calibration a try. I’m going to use a digital caliper tool to obtain measurements in mm. I’ll report back results. I’m going to wait until Monday when I’m at work and I have more resources available Incase something goes wrong. I’ll read the dynamic suspension document more thoroughly before calibration. I’m going to hold off on SDD as long as possible as I don’t really want to get any deeper than I already have to and I already know once I use the SDD I’m going to want to dedicate a laptop to it and if it’s paid subscription I’ll need to fork out good money to go with a yearly plan. So far my scan tool (snapon modus) seems like it’ll read suspension codes as I did some stuff to trip suspension codes at one point and I was able to read them and reset. Maybe there’s a deeper set of codes that I didn’t know about but I guess we’ll find out Monday about calibration and see where this leads me.

 

NOT THAT I WOULD SUGGEST or support any bootleg tools, but I think that if you look around, there may be some "bootlegged" or hacked versions of SDD that are offered-up for purchase. They would be a tool that you would load on a pad or laptop and run on a virtual machine or something like that. Of course it's great that JLR offers the real SDD to us JLR owners, but some have hacked a version - unsupported and unacknowledged of course, that are a much more practical option to the owner that would use it for things like TPMS work, or suspension calibration, things like that. Some operations might be better served with full support of JLR (I can't say I know what that entails though), and from what I recall on my Land Rover suspension calibration, that is one calibration. But then again, for calibration of suspension, that may be worth the one-time, get it done at the dealership things that are worth having the real Jaguar dealership do, done right, and a non-issue after it's done.
Although I've always liked doing my own work, typically shunning dealership service, with the JLR vehicles, I have learned to appreciate the ones that I've become familiar with local to me, I actually appreciate the Jaguar and the Land Rover shop people that I occasionally use. They've converted my decades-old way of thinking.

 

hmm.... screen shot of eBay search.... not that I support this kind of thing but 12.00$ is intriguing.

 

I keep thinking about this comment “all my money” lol it’s unusual as I believe most would say “ a bunch of money, a bundle of money, some money, money” but ALL your money? Is this what’s going to happen? Is every cent going into this money trap??? I can tell you that as of now the only money getting spent on this car before next February is going to be maintenance related like oil and gas and cleaning. I’m done spending on it, yes it’s true, I’m forced kind of and have reached a lack of funds available to throw at this beast for this summer. All the issues discussed on this forum have been addressed. Next spring I’ll have new issues to tackle and repair and ultimately I’ll throw more money at it for sure as in the end I always make my cars as perfect as I can. Blue book means nothing to me if I like the vehicle I make it nice regardless of what I have to spend or how long it takes me to get it where I want it. My Yukon has almost three times it’s blue book value invested into making it how I want it and it’s not entirely complete yet after 4 years either but it’s pretty darn nice and it turns heads and feels great to drive still. The end goal is this car has to be better riding, running and looking than the Yukon.
I just found your comment funny and somewhat unusual, and alarming, almost as if you were watching my bank accounts deplete in front of your eyes.

 

LOL, too funny. No I just meant to say that it is very beautiful and that I too would invest in it to get everything right. I think yours looks even nicer than mine; I love the color.

I expect bills of ~$2k-$3k per year after the initial maintenance if I don’t do the work myself. Not cheap, but hardly bank account depleting.

 

For those interested in SDD please search the broader forum as there is a lot of experience creating a "home" version with old laptops laying around - just need a mongoose/mangoose cable. Look at the X350/358 forum for lots of user links to SDD files & cables. If you want a hint just search posts I've made and you'll quickly find links & posts.

 

So, in your opinion, which suspension component improved your ride quality the most? Thanks

 

I'd say upper shock mounts and isolators and front suspension rear lower control arm or bushing.

 

Neodoerr - THANK YOU for giving me the links to the TPMS sensors from Rock Auto. I saved a bunch of money and the sensors work well. This is the first day I’ve had no TPMS warnings and no check engine light since I purchased the car.

as far as suspension parts that did best for me, it’s hard to tell because I’ve replaced so many and each step of the way it’s been improving. Lower control arms was a big change but in all honesty I’m still hunting down the source of my clunk sounds. At this point I’m narrowing it down or at least I’m going to try the pinion adjustment tension screw in the steering rack as I feel like the clunking sounds could be coming from the pinion being loose and wobbling around. I feel like the suspension is really nice after everything I’ve done if only I was not able to hear the clunking over bumps.

are you asking about which suspension parts were most effective because you’re experiencing something?

 

Glad the new sensors fixed the warning lights. It’s funny that these sensors are supposed to be helpful, but often they’re more hassle than their worth.

I have an old thread about my ride being a bit bumpy here:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...6/#post2044824

I have some minor updates about this I can post there, but my ride quality is still not good enough.

However I paused working on suspension/ ride quality issues, deciding my most pressing task was to get the timing chain service, supercharger service & tranny service done first. I have completed the transmission service, but won’t have the rest completed till mid July.

I’ll get back to suspension work soon after. It’s always good to learn what’s the best bang per buck from someone who recently went through a similar process. Hopefully I won’t have to change too many parts to get it back to my liking.

 

@ mcmism sway bar bushings are notorious for the clunking sound and are not expensive.

 

I had the same clunking sound over small bumps. My dealer replaced the sway bar bushing and the clunk quickly came back. I took it to an independent shop and they said the clunk was due to the sway bar bushings. They said the dealership installed them with the wheels off the ground. The correct way to install the bushings is to assemble and torque down the fasteners with the wheels on the ground under load. Problem solved and that was 25,000 miles ago. Another possible cause for the clunk could be the steering column knuckle joint. Rare, but happens.

Suspension rubbing. Since your car is used, could the cars suspension been lowered by the previous owner? Front coils cut down and rear suspension level sensors moved in position ?