XJR models use Brembo Calipers which are different from calipers on the XJ and Vanden Plas. The rotors and pads are specific to the XJR, however the process is the same with the exception rear brake calipers. The Brembo rear calipers do not have the integrated emergency brake function so the piston compresses straight back in the bore. Get the right parts and its fairly easy following what it supplied. Make sure you 4 wheel bleed the system at least once if not twice. Good Luck

 

'The main difference is the rear Brembo Caliper pistons press straight back into the bore instead of rotating. Follow the instuctions and read all the attachments and you'll be driving in no time.

 

thanks a lot
what i understand from you even though the xjr have the same set up electric brakes as the xj and vandem, and because it uses brembo calipers the rear break compresses back on the brembo.

 

Stupid question - My XJR looks like it has integrated e-brakes on the rear, so does that mean it's not Brembo? How can I tell definitively?

 

On the non-Brembo rear caliper there is a lever directly attached to the caliper which is attached to the Emergency Brake cable. I would expect that XJR models have 4 wheel Brembo calipers which are more conventional.

 

Thanks for the great tutorial I just finished doing mine. I shopped on-line for parts and SAVED BIG. Under $175.00 for everything. I found rear rotors at JC Whitney for $9.71 ea. ($28 total including shipping for the PAIR) had them in two days. Surprisingly they where machined, surfaced and ready to install.

Front rotors Centric Premium @ $45.00 part #120.61077 @ partsgeek.com
Rear Rotors Replacement brand @ $9.71 #REPL271111 JC Whitney.com ($28 for the pair including shipping)
Front Pads Monroe CX805 Premium Ceramics @ $21.85 pr. after $15 mail in rebate thru 05/2012 @ Partsgeek.com
Rear pads Centric Premium ceramic pads @ $20.35 pr. part #301.08060 @ partsgeek.com

Had everything in 3 days TOTAL COST INCL SHIPPING $168.15

 

I changed my front brake pads this weekend, easy job. This thread was very helpful, I needed a new C-clamp, old one broke due to rust. Got the pads on in about 30 minutes. But I bent one of the lugs when I used the terrible lug wrench that came with my 04 VDP. I've since read that the one that came with the car is garbage and the lugs are too. So, I have ordered a new lug to replace the one I bent. Thanks Jaguar Forum, you saved a new VDP owner again.

 

OK, quick question. The special procedure for the rear caliper bleeding appears to really only apply if you're replacing the caliper or have trouble bleeding adequately. Correct? So, otherwise, like if I were to just change the rear pads, just bleed like normal?

 

Regarding bleeding the rear calipers. If you are simply going to compress/rotate the rear pistons back and install new pads and rotors then air should not be introduced into the system. However, I would highly recommend getting a rented or a loner brake caliper kit with the apparatus to rotate the piston back into the bore. This will save you a lot of time and aggravation. Another technique thats used is opening the bleeder when compress/rotating the piston back into the bore to prevent dirty brake fluid that may have collected in the caliper from being pushed back up in to the brake lines. If you find, after reassembly, that you have a soft pedal or lack of braking power, then bleed the entire system using the factory procedure,

Make sure you line up the pins on the back of the brake pads with the grooves in the face of the pistons when you reassemble.

Since a quart of DOT4 brake fluid is only about $7-$10. I would recommend flushing out the old fluid if it looks dark or blackish. The rear caliper has a complicated mechanism inside the piston and bore. If you are flushing the whole system, I would recommend following the factory bleeding pdf.file I attached. Then you can be positive that there is no air or anything else in the caliper.

When you are all done do not for get to recalibrate the parking brake following the attached pdf.file instructions and you should be good to go.

 

That's what I needed to know. Thanks. My love local auto zone has the loaner tool kit and the pads so I'll probably pick em up today and do the project this weekend. I despise brakes and must confess that the air ride and e brake add elements that intimidate me a little...........but hell, I've rebuilt the entire brake system, suspension and done a top end rebuild (including tuning the dreaded zenith carb) on my Landy........I should be able to manage this.

 

Follow the instructions for the air ride and e-brake. They're really simple. With that tool it will be faster than the fronts. lLet me know how it goes.

 

Thanks for the great post. I am about to start my pad replacement, but I'm a little nervous about disconnecting the battery, given its a complex car. The local main jag dealer said it was not necessary, but given the above that does not make sense.

Tim 2006 XJ VDP

 

Don't worry about disconnecting the battery. There are no troubles associated. As soon as you reconnect you should hear the air pump and feel the car level itself. Everything just works.

Rear brake job went beautifully, took just over an hour.

Going to the dealer on Monday though. On their inspection sheet they indicated that the rear pads were 2/32 and the shortest on I pulled off was 5/32...........this is the same inspection sheet I saw that told me my front brakes needed to be replaced immediately and got me to shell out 300........never again......

 

I am about to replace my pads only, but I'm nervous about disconnecting the battery given the complexity of the car. My local jag main dealer said it was not necessry as the suspension would just settle normally after lowering the car afterwards. Has anyone had any issues with electrics/electronics/computers etc after doing this?

Many thanks
Tim 2006 XJ VDP

 

Definitely disconnect the battery. I consider that a necessity for this...... there are no adverse affects. Once you reconnect the battery......other than resetting the clock.

 

Disconnect the battery following the sequence in the instructions. To disable the electric parking from activating the the air ride from trying to compensate when jacking. Follow all the instructions and you'll be on the road in no time.

 

OK, mission accomplished, brake job done. I replaced both sets of pads following the instructions. A few observations;

Mine is a 2006 XJ VDP. The instructions for the rears mention a V shaped notch in the piston face - but mine did not have this. The inner pad seemed to fit just fine though. No noise and no issues so far.

The caliper retraction tool I used came from Harbor Freight - I had used this kit previously on my Mazda3. Part number 40732 'US General'.

Reconnecting the battery caused no issues - it had the following impacts - (i) clock to be reset (ii) radio station presets lost (iii) trip A & B set to zero (iv) had to reset the one touch window control - easily done per owners manual.

My car has 29,100 miles on it. This is the first time the front pads had been replaced, not surprisingly, the old ones were pretty thin. The rears had been replaced before at 11,400 miles and were very badly worn. So it seems a safe bet is 25,000 life for fronts and 15,000 for rears, just to be safe.

This forum is invaluable. Thank you!

 

25 and 15k?!? That seems wickedly low to me..... glad it all went well though. I don't listen to the radio so no presets....obviously the clock stopped, but that's to he expected.

Does anyone know the Jag specs for pad depth in reference to when they should be replaced???

 

Yes, 25,000 and 15,000 might be low, but I do live and work in LA. I do about 50 miles a day on city streets and freeways.

 

So my 2004 XJR has Brembo's and the seperate parking brake Caliper. Is the pad change in the PBC caliper the same as the large caliper? I thought that the PBC was Electric and not Hydrolic. My PBC pads need replacing now where as the rears have life still left in them, can I change just the PBC pads alone?