Herman A the following from an earlier post I mad on this topic.

Here’s the link to my older post from 7/2013 describing what I made withpictures and parts #’s if you want to make your own and below are the two newparts which are both Gates pieces with the following descriptions and NAPA part#’s.

Link for 2013 post: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/g...90/#post772872h

New parts required for rear shocks: G31100-25023/8” pipe coupling & G60631-0202 slip-fit adaptor

With those and a short piece of the appropriate sized and type of 1/8” pressure hose as well as the fitting from the top of a blown shock you can make a tester of your own.
OR
You can message forum member John Tuberville and he’ll send the one I’m sending him to the nextmember in line for a nominal fee to cover his investment just as I have done with him.

 

Does anybody here can say what are the thread sizes on the air suspension parts.
I only want to know the thread size and type no part numbers...
1) Thread size Front struts
2) Thread size Rear struts
3) Thread sizes on the Valve block in the trunk, i assume these are the same used on the struts. As you can see Rear is small than front struts.

Can anybody help?

 

Did you ever found out what type of thread is it, looking for the thread size and type of the Front/Rear struts.

 

Hi All,
I have a related but slightly different question: My valve block itself is leaking at the seams (between the aluminium part and the black plastic part).
I have ordered a "new" unit from the UK.
I am very scared of swopping it out and messing up something and ending up stranded with the car flat on its belly.

So my question is:
What should I expect & be careful of when I loosen & remove the copper pipe fittings from the valve block?
Is it a simple matter of undoing them with the right spanner, and they come out with the pipe intact?
Is there any danger of stripping the thread or otherwise causing damage to the pipe system, or ending up with a leak at those fittings (there are none at the moment)?
Any pointers on this daunting procedure will be highly appreciated

Regards
Leon

 

Hi Leon
First of all I suggest that you photograph the valve block so that

you know which pipe goes where when you replace the valve block.

You could even remove one pipe and fit it in the new valve block in the same position

one by one if you see what I mean.

I would expect the pipe to come out complete with the olive attached then you

just insert it in the right port on the new block and screw it down.

Not too tight- you can always leak test later and tighten a bit more if it leaks.

Use the right size open ended spanner and when refitting the pipe

start the by inserting the fitting with your fingers.

If it gets very tight do not proceed but remove it and try to start it again

If you proceed and the thread is very tight you could cause damage.

It's not difficult to do and you will be pleased by a job well done when you have finished.

 

Thanks Meirion1!

I will follow your advice to the T.
Now that I read about the olive - so it is like normal plumbing, only in miniature? I thought I saw an O-ring in a picture somewhere and was wondering if it should be replaced.

About letting the pressure out - can I just loosen them a little and wait for the air to escape before continuing? And should I put some supports under the car at the jack points to make sure it does not sag dangerously low? Or is there no potential damage to the air struts or otherwise, if all the pressure is released while the car is on its wheels?

(I am about to make 4 little wood blocks that fit under the car at the jack points, so that until I get the new block it won't sag too low, and also while doing the job the car can rest on them and not damage the air bladders - but is that a concern at all?)

Regards
Leon

 

Oh one last question - would it be a good idea to disconnect the battery during the operation so as to avoid any strange fault codes, or would that not be an issue?

 

Remove fuse number 52 (20 amp, yellow - Air Suspension) from the fusebox next to the battery

 

I would disconnect the battery. Also be aware that the tubes do wear from putting them off and on. You can trim the end of the tubing a bit if you have enough slack if you get a leak and can't get it stopped. Be sure and use a sharp razor blade and make the cut straight across the tubing.
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Withe all due espect to clubairth1, I do not see what possible benefit there is to disconnecting the battery, which will require re-configuring the Throttle Body, the Park Brake and the Window Auto open shut in order to simply to prevent action from the Air Suspension Module? This can be simply be isolated by removing fuse number 52 from the rear fuse box?

 

Agreed, just pull the fuse involved, or the emission monitors, will all need to reset.

The 04's comprehensive components monitor, has yet to reset in over 9,000 miles..

 

Thanks All,
Sounds like I should go for the fuse only.

What does reset & reconfigure mean? By a dealer, or does the car do it himself over time?
Does it mean when changing the battery all those things must also be done?

I ask because the plan is to re-do the leather on the steering wheel, and the auto trimmer said they disconnect the battery to avoid issues with airbags etc.

Thanks & Regards

 

The risk of disconnecting the battery is that when you reconnect and "wake" the car you want the height measuring sensors to be at the exact same spot, if you replace the valve block and let the air out then that won't happen. - the suspension will need recalibration, possibly dealer level.

Not sure about the fuse method, if it were me would get all 4 wheels off the ground first so it "wakes" in the same position

 

Anyone in Australia got a tool like this?

We can't figure out why the suspension is dropping new struts l,compressor and distribution block

Lines leak tested struts sprayed with soapy water no codes

She takes about 3 days and she's on the stumps s

Start engine or compressor she goes straight up stays up for couple days

If I drove her every day wouldn't have known but only use her sporadically

I have used one of my old struts to swap over and test but a kit like this would be a godsend even if a drawing on how to make my own version would be a nice thing

Regards doc

 

My untested theory is to disconnect the battery, since the Air Suspension Module self-levels even when asleep. Making them all go down.

My suspension doesn't go down, currently. But it used to over days to weeks. I didn't do anything. My X-Ray eyes, or imagination, says there was a speck of dust in the valve block since cleared. (because it's the only "moving part" in this aspect).

 

Well read the above comments because they did post good reasons NOT to disconnect the battery. I do just because the car is so complex I can't be sure that removing a fuse labeled for the air suspension is the ONLY fuse involved with the air suspension system? Yes it's labeled as such but these systems are all integrated and connected to each other.

If your anywhere close to getting an emissions check you DO want to keep ALL the monitors in the completed state if possible as it can be a real bear trying to get them to set in a short period of time!
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Good point, should have said "or fuse". Since there's no other way to "separate" the corners.
We don't have emissions stuff here. <cough> Still, better than Delhi or Newport <cough>

 

The cars been at my Indie's shop since Christmas! He was doing other things as well and he's fairly knowledgeable. We're just at an impasse and the guages will allow us to isolate the strutts to see if one or more has an issue as they're getting close to the warranty date on them

 

In the shop since Christmas, you ARE a patient individual indeed.

 

I've got a few cars like 7 lol and 3 bikes always got something to drive or ride the XJ is not my everyday. I only use 8t if I'm going somewhere. short trips and traffic no thanks.I'd rather drive or ride something I'm not worried about getting damaged