I just did a brake fluid flush on my 2004 X350. Everything went fine, followed the posted directions and order, no apparent air in system. However, after doing this, my brake pedal has to be pushed to within 1 inch of the floor to completely engage the brakes, that's a lot of wasted travel. It didn't do this before the fluid purge and the brake components are only a couple of months old. I used Dot4 fluid. Is there some adjustment, either mechanical or electrical that controls the pedal sensitivity? Somewhere else I need to look? I really can't see it being air in the system, that was one of the main objectives of my fluid change.

 

Getting all the air out of this brake system is devilishly hard. You got to get it right. One point. The system is a dual diagonal so when you redo it, start in the rear. Rear left to right front. Then rear right to left front.
If your car has Brembos be sure to start with the outside calipers.
Also, if you are using a 1 man vacuum bleed device and you crack the bleed nipple too far-- you don't get a good bleed .


Hope this helps.

 

Had the same issue when I changed the r/r caliper. The line was pinched before the job started, so any air would not go to far into the system. Changed the caliper, bleed the system and to the floor the pedel went. After a lot of bleeding and a lot of fluid, I had the dealer pressure bleed it. The cost was cheep, and it was done in 5 minutes.With the new systems a pressure bleeder is the way to go. Out is the old method with two people or a vac bleeder. I tried the vac bleed. While bleeding the system no air was present in the bleed line. The systems are too complex, and the small vac bleeders cant pull enough.
Now my old land rover can be bleed with one hand, and the other hand on a pint.

 

OK, thanks guys. I think I'll just take it to an indy brake center and let them power it out and see what happens. I'll let you know.

 

Might even be a failed brake servo (or there may be a failed vacuum line).

 

When I did my fluid change, all I did was to open the valve at each wheel and let the fluid flow by gravity. No pumping, and no fancy vacuum or pressure fittings. I just kept topping off the reservoir until clean fluid came out each caliper valve.

Of note...I use the same gravity method for every car I have ever owned, and have yet to find one that it does not work on.

I would try letting gravity do it's job before I paid an indy. If you have a large bubble in the anti-lock system it may not siphon...but it's worth a shot.

 

I took it to my indy and they did a full flush for about $100 and that fixed the problem. I have no idea what I did wrong to let air in the system, but, oh well, it's fine now.