I opened/closed all the doors and trunk. None are being displayed as open... went through SDD again. Same results.

 

I can turn on the lights and the alarm with both FOBs again, but it will not lock, unlock, or turn the alarm off. I had to discon the battery. I am starting a new SDD session and trying again... It will still bring the mirrors in when the lock is pushed twice. While sitting in the car with all items closed, the button on the dash does nothing when pushed. If I use the key in the floor, it will unlock all of them and the reverse when locked. Seems odd that something is telling the car not to work with the lick/unlock buttons for the door, but the mirrors, trunk, lights, alarm on will all work...

 

This all started cause my Ad Cru Ctrl issue. I got several dash lamps all at once. Here's the updated DTCs as of 1206 EST

 

Ok, the reason your lock/unlock is not working is because one of your error messages says "Drivers/passenger door ajar output -circuit failure" The cars computer thinks a car door is open even though you have closed them all and thus you get "beep..beep" when using the key fob and is also the reason your interiror lock all button is not working. The other error messages are ABS related and should not affect your key fob issue.

You will need to check your fuse to the door locks as a possible issue.

When disconnecting your battery it is good to touch the two cables together for a minute to fully exhause all remaning power in the computer moduals to clear your codes. When you do this you will normally have to retrain your windows up/down setting and reset your electronic parking brake (both how toos are on this forum). If when you reconnect the battery and error codes come back that you do have some type of issue unfortunatley the Dealer my need to look at.

FYI, l will be away for a few days.

 

checked both fuses and they are good... discon the battery again and held the cables together. hooked it back up, put the key in to POS II and the touchscreen display is blank... The windows won't go up, the sunroof won't close. I've got a battery charger on it now as it's not ran in a couple days and I've been doing all this work... I hope the SDD can get a good session this time too.

 

Hooked up the jumper cables to my Durango... Got power, but need to get this thing started so I can sort it out proper.

 

Yes, having a fully charged battery is critical otherwise you will start to get many, many false errors and codes. Like the dealer I hook up my charger to the battery when using SDD.

 

Well, I had to order another top portion of the key FOB from Jaguar so I would have two keys. That was $220 and came in on Friday morning. They wanted me to set up a time to get it programmed, but I said I would try it myself and just got the key. As it had sat for two days with the battery charger on it, it was charged up pretty well. The first thing I did was get in and tried to start her up JIC the transponder was already set. It worked! I went around the block to make sure it was running properly. When I got home, I did the Transponder/KeyFOB program on the SDD. If I had to go to Jag after that, then so be it, but I had to try. Both transponders and FOB programmed properly. I was still getting “beep beep” when I tried to unlock/lock the doors with the FOB and then the trunk wouldn't open, along with the glove box. It was stuck in Valet Mode even though I had locked/unlocked the door manually with the key and drove it around the block. I used the new key to unlock the trunk manually and that must have been the primmer as it started to function after that, So that’s good. Still have the upper portion with the blank key from eBay that I am considering getting cut ($40 if I go to them) and then trying to set the transponder in it to my car. As I have two good ones now, I think I’ll be OK if the third doesn't work. Then, a bottom FOB will be easy enough to get.

Downside, I went to unbolt the ground behind the right side head lights and the post snapped off. Aggravated again. I thought, I’d just add them to the lower post for the time being. Guess what, it snapped off too. So now I’m stuck with no grounds on the right side. I took a wire brush and scrubbed the inside of the top post all around and unscrewed one of the headlight bracket bolts. I got a large piece of wire and stripped one end a few inches and wrapped it round the post and twisted it in place. I stripped about an inch from the middle of the wire (about 10” long) and wrapped it around the headlight bracket bolt between the body and the bracket. Stripped the other end and went through the ground wires and twisted them all up tightly. Wrapped em all up with electrical tape and “Bob’s your Uncle.” For now anyway. I need to replace the posts as there is only one or two threads on either of them. The first part of my plan is to get some JB Weld and try it. I’ll consider drilling new holes and using a couple nuts & bolts of my own as the last resort. Has anyone replace them as DIY? If so, what was your method? I would rather do that, but will do what I need to get a solid ground. On the bright side, all of the warning lights went off with the exception of the “Check Engine” and the “Cruise Not Available” (but the Cruise was there already). I need to get the new codes read now that I have it running, charged battery, and a fairly sound earth. The battery was installed in March of this year, so it’s still good. I installed a new WIX cabin filter and a K&N performance air filter while it was sitting as well.

Oh, and the steering wheel won’t go up as it’s all the way down now, I can say if it’ll go down at all. It will telescope in and out, but not go up. I have put the knob in all the positions as well.

This all started by me trying to get the Adaptive Cruise Control to function. I went into SDD and tried to set it as a new unit and that didn’t work as it said I needed to drive over 30 mph until the “Adaptive” light stops flashing. Well, it still hasn't stopped. I was impatient after the first hour or so and went into the SDD again and tried to restart it. I didn't do something properly as it was all fouled up after that. At least I’ve gotten to where I am. I am hoping to get some miles on her and let her settle down a bit before I go in there and start mucking about more. It’s only been about 20 miles since I get the grounds situated.

To sum it all up; if you only have one key, don’t try to erase it and program only one as you’ll lose the one you have.

 

What a GREAT find! I am new to Jaguar ownership and guess what? Key fob issues! Glad you all are here. I have a question about the batteries. One of the fobs has 2 2016 and the other has 1 2032. Is there a difference? Any recommendations?

 

hidy Greg!
I'd recmmend one 2032 as the others are about $4 each and are about half the size of one 2032. Worst case, you buy a 2032 and if it doesn't work, you have a spare for the other and then you get the 2016s... IMHO

R,
Rags

 

Hello! I'm a little late, hopefully not too late!
I have only one key for my '05 XJ8L, and the only remote feature working on it is trunk release button.
So, is this a bad fob (and I think that's the case), or it just needs reprogramming? Batteries are new. Thank you

 

dusankrag,

You might try buying a new key fob from ebay. They're cheap enough these days. Some thing like this:

4button Flip Remote Key Fob Clicker Transponder for Jaguar x s Type XJ 433MHz | eBay

The above was just the first one that came up on my ebay search. Double check to make sure that the fobs are compatible with your car. I think that the US and UK ones are different. There's plenty of info on this forum about it.

If you are able to successfully program it and all the buttons work, then you could have the key stem cut. No sense paying to get the key cut until you are sure all the buttons work as intended.

Hope this helps.



.

 

Adding onto that, If you buy a FOB alone, you can separate the top & bottom half and put it on the FOB after programming it. I found a place that will send you a key, cut to your code, as long as you send them the "T Code" which you can TRY to get from a dealer or determine it yourself. I have a write up on it I derived from another.

RAGMAN!!!

 

No matter what I do or the speed this does not work with either fob...Got it to go 5 times then beep but when complete the courtesy/headlight button sets off alarm! when I try it again and get 4 beep the 4 buttons on the remote controls the lights on off only...hit unlock lights turn on, hit lock lights turn off, hit light button lights turn on, hit trunk release lights turn off...ideas anyone?

 

I finally got it after over 100 tries! Unfortunately I didn't have the second fob nearby so only the one is programmed...I tried another 30 times afterward and no luck with second fob on my lap...The horn goes off on four beeps every time except that one in a hundred time!

 

Hi guys, I have an interesting problem with this

This is how I did it:

1. Open the driver's door
2. Hold the high beam
3. Insert key and turn to position 1
4. immediately flash 4 times and hear the beep 1 time
5. I pressed the Unlock button 5 times followed by the beep
6. Turn the ignition off
I then pressed the lock button and then the door locked. After that nothing else works...just that one time. Any idea what's going on?

 

I think you only press any button on the fob once, not five times, and you do have to be quick!
Turn ignition off and shut the drivers door

 

I just did this to program a "new" key fob. I flashed very quickly five times whereas your note stated four.

It worked for me .................eventually.

I tried multiple times before it worked. So I was doing something wrong up until it worked?????

 

The reason it didn't work for me the first few times was because I wasn't quick enough...it's got to be done quickly

 

+1 on that. Even as quick as I could manage it was several attempts for me.