Hi All,

Is there a way to access the subwoofers from the trunk area?

Thanks!

 

Remove the back bench - bottom and back ( ), remove rear pillar trims on both sides. Then once you remove the trim clips, the tray slides out towards the front of the car while lifting the front up slightly.

 

There is at least one electrical connection to the tray, so be aware of that. get it unplugged before you yank it...

 

Is there a way for me to check that both are working from the trunk area before tearing the back seat apart?

 

You can pull down the trunk trim and feel them from below and you can set your audio settings to 'back only' but the hardest part about removing the back seat is just knowing how to do it.

The first time took me like 2 hours, I could not get any of the latches to open. The second time took me no more than 5 minutes, because all the latches pull the same way and if it fights you, you're not pulling on the right thing. In reality it isn't that bad. Now here's the trick on the back seat removal. Once you get the bottom cushion removed (and you don't need to undo electrical connectors, you just need to slide the seat cushion forward a few inches so you can access the nylon pull ropes on either side), you pull on the nylon rope to release the back rest but don't try to pull the back seat forward until you have fully pulled on the nylon cord. In fact, on one seat I couldn't get the back rest to move until I pushed it BACKWARDS (which easies the pulling load required on the nylon). Given there are two pulls, if you don't have a helper have some cardboard ready to push in behind the back rest so it doesn't re-latch on you.

If you need any pictures let me know, I've got an X350 with the cushion and back seat rest disconnected for a headliner replacement.

 

Is there an easy way to get the trim off to do a quick check?

 

You kinda have to start at the back corners. Actually, removing the trunk floor cover will make life easier, as all the other panel slide under its edges. The sides come out, and then you can get the trim out from underneath the rear window. Easy? not too difficult. Fast? Not really. And it can be quite a job to put back in, as everything has to line up properly. It's a lot easier than getting the package shelf out inside the car, though!

 

I went through this recently, as part of repairing four (!) door speakers (failed speaker cone/voice coil wiring)
Put a piece of copy paper on top of each woofer and crank up rear only with heavy bass media. You'll immediately see if working or not
Subwoofer sc/vc wiring is same as troublesome (mid bass) door speakers, but my woofers were fine. I'm guessing its moisture in the doors that kills the wiring...

 

The problem with the paper test is that (and this is me guessing) the two speakers are close enough together that even if only one were working, the other would become a passive drive and show action on the paper.

 

Hey wfoo,
Actually, I went in through the trunk at first, and then used paper on ctr of package shelf + disconnecting one, then the other woofer. Paper method works great, and it's readily obvious whether each speaker is working or not.
VC wiring goes through same plastic peg arrangement (where it fails in door speakers), but seemed OK in trunk. BTW, believe there is room to solder jumpers via trunk, if need be. Pulling the back seat is a PITA...