We are experiencing the exact same thing and drivability. Other than the check engine light the engine performs flawlessly and the LT fuel trims in the 0-3 % range. I'll definitely keep you posted if I find a solution this way the brothers are working 100%!. I've done all my own repairs for a long time. My skill set has improved since buying the European cars and having to chase down the electrical/module gremlins.. Unfortunately never had to reflash an ECU, but will to try and learn. Otherwise I will take the car to the dealer. I may just install the new O2 Sensors I purchased (yes firing the parts cannon, which I hate without doing a proper diagnosis) since it is mentioned in the TSB. O2 sensors need to be a certain part# (don't know what the previous owner installed).

 

I just re-read the TSB in detail and saw that it calls out code P050B-85 specifically rather than -84. Not sure if that matters, but that along with our cars being outside of the VIN range leads me to believe its not that straightforward. It specifically states cars outside of the VIN range will have the updated sensor and calibration from the factory. If I had the P050B with the P1311 like you did I would certainly replace the O2s and go from there. I have nothing else to go on at this point, but will still stop at the dealer when I get a chance to see what they think.

Wonder if there's been another update after this one that includes our VINs.

 

UPDATE: Well I finally got a chance to change out the (2) upstream O2 sensors when doing my oil change. Super easy job. The Big Cat ran great, BUT the pesky code returned after 200 miles of driving. I'm going to drive to the dealer today and see if they know anything about this TSB and the cost to reflash ECM and TCM. Fingers Crossed.

 

That's too bad...I have been meaning to update myself. About 3 weeks ago my wife took the Jag out on a Sunday and later tha evening I went to get gas and the light was out, went out on its own. Have driven the car about 600 miles since and it has not returned, cars running great. I suspect it will eventaully come back, but not worried about it at the moment (too many other things to worry about...).

Let me know how it goes, I assume at some point I'll need to take care of this.

 

Wow can you wife drive my XJ and if the light goes off dinner certificate for your two! cheaper than the dealer to re-flash. lol. I went to the Ray Catena Jag Service Center yesterday but they said my car was too old for them! So I'll have to continue to call around.

I wonder if the JLR SDD can re-flash? I have it running now.

Funny my brother calls me this morning and tells me that the TPMS light on the LR3 went off this morning after his wife drove it up to Conn! It's been on for months! HE did play around with the JLR software and the LR3 before her trip but has no idea if he touched anything .lol. The wives have the magic feet.

 

Doesn't always work out when the wife drives it. Yesterday I had to take my daughter to a birthday party (no car seats in the Jag) so I took her car and she took mine. I knew she was going to a crowded place for lunch and told her to take my Buick buy she took the Jag anyway. After she got home I went to grab something out of the car and noticed a nickel sized ding on the passenger rear door...I am so pissed. Car did not have a single scratch, ding, or nick on it and now there's a very noticeable dent in a very noticeable spot.

That's odd the dealer won't even look at it because its too old. The dealer by me always has older stuff XJs, XKs, even S & X-types parked in the service lot so hopefully they work on older stuff. Not sure about updating with SDD, but that would be ideal if you already got it working.

 

SDD will flash the modules - but be very careful! Do not try it without the proper power supply attached. Also if there are any bus problems the flash may fail and com will be lost - recovery mode would have to be followed and it is extremely time critical. 131.3 works for all our cars with the correct interface - many knockoffs just cause more problems trying to program modules.

 

Oh no... I'm sorry about the door ding.. That does drive you crazy and a car enthusiast nightmare... It happened to me recently even though I parked the car wayyyy out of the way...It stinks but after a while I forgot about it.

Thanks Edward! On the TSB XJ303-13 it states Vehicles in the VIN range G49701 to G50786 must have new sensors (C2P8810) installed and the engine control module (ECM) and transmission control module (TCM) calibrations updated using WDS CD 41 or higher if:
Edward, if possible and you have time, could you PM me on the proper step by step (if you know it) to reflash?.. I'm curious if the the JLR SDD has the correct upgraded "firmware" to load in.

Thanks!

 

 

 

Interesting, MAF sensor does make sense. My code has disappeared and not come back, but might be worth a shot if it returns. Thanks for the info.

 

SDD 131.3 has the last updates done for our x350's. Anything higher does not add more updates or functionality as far as I know - they just make you have a subscription to Topics, unless cracked, and I do not know if there are faults or omissions in the cracked versions.
In SDD the flashing is fairly straight forward and should not need to be done "as new" unless it is not the original ECU. There is a not somewhere that indicates the TCM adaptations should be erased before flashing it.
If your buses are good everything should update to the most recent versions of everything if both CDs of the 131.3 have been installed. The problem begins if you do loose com part way through due to bad bus or power V drop. The two cars I have resurrected had partial bus shorts inside some modules and reprogramming the ECU had to be done with a workaround. In both cases they left the ECU with no com and of course the car dead in the water. If it fails due to low voltage it would be easier to resurrect. The software leads you through that process and it does not seem to mind you trying multiple times to get the timing right, however you have to go through the attempted re-flash until the failure point each time. There is a critical 10 second timing, in the recovery, that can be confusing as when to start the timing however after a few tries with different 'starting' points it does work.
I doubt that anything other than a good version of SDD and genuine module would be able to recover a none communicating ECU.

 

Hey, I'm back Code was gone for a while and came back a couple weeks ago, but then went out on its own within 2-3 days. Finally came back today after another 1000 miles or so. With inspection coming up in a month I'll need to do something about it (won't pass with MIL illuminated obviously). My brother in law still knows a guy who works in a Jag service department semi-local to me so will try to get the car there at some point for a reflash. Also thinking about @Robert Edwin rawle tangerinedream1 's suggestion on MAF sensor. It does seem like a possibility, especially since my car should not be affected by the TSB according to the model year & VIN.

 

Hello! Well I still have my code and it seems to being coming back more quickly. My brother has been trying to reflash the ECU himself, but whenever he tries to reflash the ECU (using the JLR SDD 1.64 and 1.31.3) it seems to be kicking him out of the process. He was able to reflash the TCM, but that didn't do much.

Hopefully he figures out or someone has an idea why we're getting kicked out the the reflash... Yes we are beginners with this software, but we were able to shut off the TPMS error warnings from the IP.

If you get your ECU reflashed and it works please let me know!

 

I'll definitely let you know when I get it done. Were you able to verify that your 07 needed the update, meaning it was not on the newest version?

 

Do you have the PROPER power supply while reflashing?

 

Not sure... I figure the JLR SDD has the latest version so it couldn't hurt to reflash and see what happens.

 

Hi OLDKarz... My brother mentioned to me that he had the XJ's battery on the tender will working with the JLR software. is this enough?

 

If you are not sure then you do not have an adequate power supply, for the car, to flash. It cannot be safely done with only a battery connected. You must be around a consistent 13.8 volts to burn the program in. Until you get one do not try to flash the ECU again or else you may make it go offline and not be able to talk to it at all! A battery charger is not good enough either.

 

It depends upon what a 'Tender' is capable of.