Ugh... the separator isn't identifiable from the external 1068 number? Damn. Thank you, I'm glad to know I'll have to plan for the car to be up on jackstands for a week or more. Maybe I can find a local trans supply place and just get the separator locally once I pull the valve body.

I did manage to get the external ID at least, so I can confirm the solenoid kit is correct.

 

On the back side of that separator tag, the A/B0xx number is also stamped. The pic of the separator tag was taken with valve body in place, so use the chart to tell you which one you need. Better than having to drop the valve body, which is what I ended up doing back then, then finding/buying the separator plate. Sonnax's vendor list is usually very current.

Paul

 

Sent an email to CTSC on another part question, Klaus said he can look up the separator P/N from the main trans 1068 number. So hopefully that works out.

If that doesn't pan out I'll check Sonnax for any local vendors. Good tip, thank you!

 

Got the transmission drained and the valve body out today. Unfortunately the new separator plate is the 051, I need the 052, so the case numbers didn't line up for whatever reason on that. I'll get that resolved next week.

I was surprised the dampers are not flat at all. They sat maybe 1mm sub-flush from the top half of the body. The sealant on the separator plate was in really bad condition thoguh--I suspect this (and old solenoids) are the root of my issues more than anything else. Once I get the new separator I'll reassemble and post back with the results.

 

Was cleaning and re-assembling the valve body last night. Things looked fine until I noticed this horrible ding at the E clutch mating face. This is adjacent to the square pump ports with the bridge seal. These are metal-to-metal so no tube seals or anything to seal these. It looks like someone hit it with a punch or dropped it on gravel. That definitely did not happen when I removed it. It would only have happened if the TCM was removed at the time. Not a clue.

I did my best to polish off the high spots with 1000 grit. I will check the mating surface in the car before I put it back in. Now I feel like the whole job has been sabotaged.

Edit: this is not the E clutch port, I believe these are for the cooler? Still not ideal, but perhaps less critical than the other ports.

 

Good find! You must have went over the whole valve body in great detail as I doubt I would have even seen that!
Are you going to live with it? I probably would.
.
.
.

 

Short of replacing the whole valve body, I will live with it. I don't know how that even could have happened or how long it's been that way. The mating port on the transmission body shows the mirror mark, but has no edges I can catch with my finger. Hopefully the little bit of smoothing I did with 1000 grit will help it sit flat.

Nearly there... transmission is back together, need to refill, reset adapts, and take through the drive cycle.

 

Finally got the transmission back together, filled up to level, and the car is moving under its own power again. Took nearly 9 quarts to refill, so beware if you do this job it'll take more than the usual 6-7 quarts.

Initially just took it around the neighborhood to try and run the adapt drive cycle, very light throttle to keep rpms between 1500-1800. So far so good. The upshifts are as good or better than before. Reverse seems to be engaging immediately. The 5-6 shift seems to be imperceptible again. Those were the initial main complaints. I only drove about 10 or so miles tonight, will do more gentle driving to try and get things adapted well. Will post back with longer-term results after I put more miles on it.