Hello everybody,

I want to install my Snowperformance stage 2 maf kit. Can you guys help me with wiring? I need a good power source that only has current flowing with the ignition on.

I am planning a trunk install, already made the mold for the 9.5L race tank with attached pump. Do you know where I could get the line from the trunk to the passenger compartnent, and then from the passenger compartment through the bulkhead to the engine bay?

Thanks!

 

When I did my water/meth install I took power from the fuse box in the engine compartment. I piggy backed off a fuse that only had power with the ignition on and put a fuse in the wire.

 

My project got derailed because of bad front upper control arms which I had to replace, and also the rebuilt fransmission began to once more give me trouble. But today I decided to also do something fun on the car, so here it is, my Snow Stage 2 MAF system, with a very... original trunk mount system.

Can anybody help me with finding a way to get a cable through from the engine compartment to the dashboard, so I can install an on/off switch? I am just about done with the install. Here are some pics along the way:

Little tap-a-fuse I found. Also found a snug location for the controller. Cardboard sure ain't pretty, but it sure does the job.

Talking about pretty...


I know, I know, looks like some killer blob from an old B movie, but it does the job wonderfully. 9.5L tank with mounting points for the pump & low level switch.


Black cable takes power from the controller to the pump. yellow/green to the low level switch. Water/meth goes through the black line to the check valve, then through the clear line. I installed both a solenoid, and a check valve because there will always be only liquid for the entire length between the front and rear, no need to wait till all 5 meters will fill up at every start.


To the top right you can see where i drilled into the wheel arch. I used a grommet taken from the hole near the sticker (center left). I arranged everything so there would not be any pressure on the line after the trunk trim is put into place.

The blob can be taken out at will, because I first lined the spare wheel area with plastic, then put insulating foam. Same for the tank.


water/meth line + cables enter the wheel well through the top, arch nicely downward


ready to go to the front!


found a tight space to under the front wheel liner, then through one of the holes near the front strut, and voila!, you are in the envine compartment.

At this point I have to screw in the nozzle, and I am done, except for the on/off switch... Please help me with getting a cable to the passenger compartment.

Thanks guys!

 

I had my water/meth tank in the engine bay in place of the cabin filter set up.

So installed a combination fuse and switch in the same area.

By comparison to your set up mine was a lot easier however I did away with the cabin filter.

 

trunk tank is the only way to go

 

Well I beg to differ!

My setup was waaaay more simple and extremely effective.

 

Finished the install.


blue wires go through a hole I drilled in the firewall to an on/off switch, black & grounded yellow go to the low level led (which is seemingly broken so I took it off). I am planning to have the low level light on the cowl, under the hood, a nod to 60s & 70s outside gauges



Nice & subtle. Now one can have the system on or off at will. Good to have when e.g. tank runs out of water/meth, and you are on the highway with no intention of stopping for topping - just turn it off till you can add the w/m into the tank.


625ml nozzle in place, tucked nicely underneath. Black line handles 100 Celsius, clear one 200. Good idea for the engine compartment.

Initial impressions:

At first I am running only water, does anybody know how long does it take for the water to clean the gunk inside?

My car has serious heatsoak issues, most probably from the gunked-up chargecoolers, compounded by the 20psi from the Kenne Bell. Lean codes and restricted performance all the way.

There is deffinetely a major improvement. Higher rmps lend a few legit dozen hp. Sustained throttle nets perhaps a hundred horses compared to my previous state (please keep in mind that at 200000km, my never-cleaned chargecoolers are perhaps not representative for others).

I can also confirm the Legend of the Frozen Chargecooler, after 15 minutes of heavy foot driving, I parked the car, and put my hand on the chargecooler, it was barely lukewarm to the touch.
Interesting fact: the supercharger exit, leading to the chargecooler, was hot. If the water is injected pre-supercharger, how can it pass through something that remains hot, then pass through something that becomes cool? The chargecooler is situated after the outlet Y pipe... Also, after half an hour, the chargecooler was hot. How come?