and pushing out the frozen pistons - doesn't that require special tools?

 

Over the years, i've gotten many frozen pistons pushed out with the master cylinder.
It works on motorcycles all the time, the issue there, arises when they do not release properly.
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Check your flex lines first. Jack wheel off ground check to see it is dragging. Then open bleeder screw and see if drag goes away.

 

Done everything you could ever imagine to any car or truck in 35 years BUT rebuilding calipers, does not sound fun at all.

 

One thing I forgot to mention regarding the brakes. If your have buildup under the stainless steel sliders the pads can bind up a bit and cause that shake.

 

Just my 2 cents. My 2008 XKR (similar suspension geometry) has a slight steering wheel shake when braking. My mechanic recommended replacing the front forward lower control arms. My front left rim was also bent. I had the wheel fixed. But shake is still there.

 

Can you elaborate? I have ALL NEW hardware.

 

I got them and hubs going on this weekend.

 

I used detroit axles on mine. But I have a feeling its his brakes binding.

 

My XJS would do that shake when the wheel bearing seat was worn.

 

I havent done the banas yet or hubs but when I SLAM the brakes, the shake is gone until I hit a bump lol, one wacky *** car.

 

I dont know if you saw but the pads are likely binding. There are the stainless inserts that protect the caliper. Brake dust accumulated behind them making the pads not move freely. My one car had/still has that issue a little bit. Solution. Remove calipers clean buildup and make sure they slide easy. some people grind metal on pad a bit. Im personally not sure how to remove teh stainless bits. I didnt want to trash them

 

I cleaned all then when I did the brakes. Again I had the EXACT same issue when the old set up was on here.

 

You've probably heard this a million times but I had the same issue and it was a combination of bent wheels and tire balancing. The very best way to balance a tire is "road force balancing" because if your wheels are bent (undetectable to see) the machine will alarm and not allow it to be balanced (slight defects are allowed). Most tire places do not use this method and will "balance" a tire whether the wheel is bent or not. In the end the wheel will wobble if its bent even though they tell you it is balanced.

 

I don't see where you have replaced or rebuilt the calipers? Have had reports that this can cause the steering wheel shudder.
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Nothing wrong with calipers, they are working perfect. I put the bananas on now and nothing has changed. All I know if it starts to vibe and I SLAM/STAB the brakes it almost stops until the next bump. I quit lol. May be for sale soon.

 

OnebadassXJR, did you change the steering end links or were they just checked for play?

 

Is it possible that your motor mounts and transmission mount are shot? Engine may be shifting around when you hit a bump or brake hard. Also subframe mounts may be shot, changing geometry. That's where I would be looking based on how you describe the vibration being influenced by sudden jolts to the car. I don't think brakes have anything to do with your problem.
John

 

- Replace caliper seals (these retract pistons, which is probably why your brakes are dragging with new pads)

- Replace front lower bushings (all of 'em; your thrust bushings are almost certainly shot)

- Replace front wheel brg's (based upon mileage)

- Use OEM parts

- Find a decent mechanic