I'm a previous owner of a 2001 VDP and am thinking that my next Jag will be an X350 (either VDP or XJR). I'm quite familiar with what to look-out for when looking to buy an X308, but I'm not very familiar with the "problem areas" of the X350. If there are any, what are they? Any tips?
Also, is the transmission used updated from the X308 and does the XJR use the same trans. as the NA cars?
What really attracts me to the X350 is that they are mostly aluminium (few areas that can rust) and I've heard they have less major issues than the X308.

problems, you say?





brake disks (rotors) and suspension bushes have a life in the region of 60k miles. Supercharged brakes are bigger and more expensive.

look out for paint blisters on corners and edges of panels.

Try ALL the toys and buttons, front and back.

Folding self-adjusting mirrors often don't, but easy clean and lube.

Look at all the dealer bills, not just the stamps in the books.

Yes, this is a cosmetic problem that can drive fastidious owners, (like myself !), mad. However, it is essentially a cosmetic-only problem and caused by a paint defect in a crevice somewhere. Aluminium on its own normally skins over with an oxide layer seconds after the bare metal is exposed or scraped/sawn etc, and this protects it from further attack. Anodising is an industrial process that enhances this layer by making it much thicker. The windscreen frame of my 1977 MG Midget is still almost perfect 35 years later as it is made from anodised aluminium, no paint covers it, it is bare metal. On my X350 if I look at the back of the rear brake discs through the gaps in the wheels, I can see a grey disc. It is the disc shield made of aluminium and still in almost perfect condition albeit bashed around by stones, but in far, far better condition than a steel one of the same age.

Anyway, the aluminium corrosion process described above is called crevice or sometimes "filiform" corrosion. It occurs where atmospheric (air) oxygen is excluded but damp and especially salt is present. This causes a corrosion site to form, This site creeps under the paint drawing water to keep the cell going, by getting it across the paint layer via a process called osmosis. I have seen this on Range Rovers, Land Rovers, and aluminium railway vehicles, (and X350 Jaguar saloons of course).

The main sites on an X350 are: -

1. Leading edge of trunk lid - creeps round from the underside. Cure it by removing corrosion, repainting, and cutting off the lip seal on the lower windscreen seal. This last action is key as it eliminates the crevice between lid and seal when the lid is closed. Grit and salt-laden water accumulates here and every time the lid is opened, it wipes the seal, scratching off a little bit of paint, until bare aluminium is exposed, and the corrosion cell starts.

2. Creep-out from above the "Jaguar" escutcheon for the trunk lock at the rear of the trunk lid, This was on early cars and believed to be poor production line practice. I have rarely seen this on newer cars.

3. Creep-out from rear windshield seal by the D-post. Again similar to the trunk lid. I suspect paint damage during screen fitment. This is an expensive site to repair as the screen needs to come out to remedy properly.

4. Door corners. Suspect this is also creep-round from a corrosion cell established where the door seal meets the door, plus the usual salt water etc.

Some people say the use of steel rivets on the aluminium shell can cause galvanic corrosion. Well, yes it can in theory, although the rivets are zinc-coated. I have never, personally, seen this type of corrosion and my car is 10 years old and every rivet site I can see, seems perfect. All joints are sealed and glued with aero-space standard glue as well as being riveted together, then painted. If you don't trust it, don't travel by air as this is the method used to manufacture air frames of aircraft.

Power-fold mirrors can seize due to the Mazak mirror casting corroding. You just remove the cover at the front, and clean out the crud, lube a bit then it is OK. Periodic attention will keep it working. Why not as part of the service routine ? Well I suppose it could be, but its a lot cheaper to do the job yourself and pay yourself !

The most important thing is evidence of servicing and care and attention by the previous owners. Neglect of complex automobiles almost always causes the next owner lots of grief. I recently saw a car in my local shop that was so neglected and filthy I wondered how the owner felt no shame in presenting it for work. It was to have a new engine installed; I wonder why !!

Other short life parts are: -

- air suspension compressor due to wear on the pump piston seal
- suspension joints on rear lower wishbones
- other suspension joints and ball joints

Much of this stuff is now available much cheaper than Jaguar agents on the internet aftermarket.

I would also check to see that it blows hot and cold air from both sides of the vehicle. I just found out that mine only blows warm air on the right side of the vehicle and nothing on the left.

But blows cold air (AC) on both sides !! Go figure. A dodgy or broken heater core is $$$$.

Oops, Changed that last post and now can't delete this one. Duh!!!