I'm late to the party reading this thread but AWSOME JOB Don. I've been pondering how I was going to do my transmission oil change and now I have a perfect, tried and tested solution. Anybody have thoughts on whether this will work on the 6hp28?

 

I have a 6hp28 in my 2013 Range Rover Sport.

I plan on using the method Don outlines in this thread on it, in about a month, and see no problem.

 

Great Post, thank you for that..
i want to ask you something; what about to vacuum all old fluid over the cooler outlet of the trans without starting the engine. and after that fill up normally?

thank you

 

Hi Mustafa,

That's a great question! Applying vacuum to the cooler outlet will withdraw some fluid, but not all of it, given that much of it resides in the torque converter, where no amount of vaccum applied to the cooler line can withdraw it.

Using the transmission's own pump to eject the fluid seems like the fastest and most efficient method, and as far as I know, even when professional transmission shops flush transmission fluid via the cooler lines or pump inlet the engine must be running so that the transmission pump is operating during the flush.

I would welcome input from any of our auto transmission experts.

Cheers,

Don

 

Thank you Don,

i came to this because last week i changed my engine oil with a vacuum machine and it took all of the old oil out, 7.7 liters. I vacuum also the oil filter area. It was nice to get all of old oil out of the engine. After that i unplug the diesel injectors and crank for 10-15 seconds before i start the engine. I wanted that the new oil been pumped all over.
This was the machine that i used:


Now i thought that i can do this with the trans, it would nice to suck all the old fluid out. Why it is not possible to vacuum from the torque converter? It would nice when our experts can comment on this.

And sorry for my bad English..

cheers

 

I in the middle of flushing my 2004 XJ8 now. First problem is getting the T27 bolts loose. 5 came off with a impact wrench leaving 16 that would not budge. Even with a few days of repeated soaking in BP Blaster. They are all off now. How I did it was a trick I learned a long time ago. I dremmel a notch in the side of the bolt head in such a position that you can get the edge of a cold chisel into the notch. The pan is being replaced so cutting into it not an issue. I took a drift and ground the end to a chisel edge. The cold chisel works best but the drift is smaller and gets into some places better. I used a ball peen hammer to tap tap tap the bolt heads with the chisel/drift. The repeated tapping is like an impact wrench and it loosens the bolt. The ideal angel would be level with the screw head and 90 degrees to a line drawing through the diameter. That's impossible in the confined space but as close as I could get worked. The idea is not to wail on it but firm repeated tapping. Also you have to catch just the bolt head with the chisel not the pan. 4 or 5 taps broke them all loose. You will see the notch move a little bit. That is all you need. The impact wrench with a impact rated T27 finished the job. I will be using new T40s with anti seize. I have seen posts of people having to drill the heads off or twisting them off then they really got a problem. Drilling out bolts in an aluminum case is nerve racking. High torque is not the answer, repeated tapping will break them loose.

As for the flush I have McGyvered a tube that uses the nipple cut from the old pan and plugs into the intake. A large funnel feeds that. I have a large 2 foot square pan to catch the fluid. I have done it with other cars no problem. It also the method that some transmission shops use to get a complete flush. The transmission does not know that there is no pan. It sucks
ten quarts through pretty quick. I mentioned this method earlier and Don thought is might be messy. It would be if you don't have a large pan. I also have a plastic tarp under everything. After, I have to put the new pan on and go through the fill procedure. I am using Mercon SP and adding 4 oz of Lubeguard shudder fix.

 

Used vice grips on a few of mine, worked out well.

 

If you're replacing the pan, just break the plastic around them. Then there's nothing left binding them to the transmission.

 

Hi tomcoo,

I'm glad you're making progress!

Please be careful using anti-seize on the pan screws because it reduces friction that can lead to over-torquing the new screws. The torque specification is based on clean, dry threads.

Transmission shops have large stand-mounted funnels to catch the spilling fluid when they employ the pump-inlet method of flushing the fluid. We would all be interested in seeing your setup for doing it yourself at home. Did the 2-foot square pan catch most of the fluid or did you get some mess on the tarp?

Keep up the great work!

Cheers,

Don

 

Most, if not all. of the the torx screws poke thru the flange of the transmission into the open air so you can spray them from the top with pbblaster or something like that overnite before tackling them.

 

haven't done it. I will report how it goes,

 

I saturated everything with PB Blaster multiple times over a few days. I thought of breaking the pan but there are metal sleeves in my pan that screws torque against. I thought it easier to remove the screws with my method.

 

Flushed the transmission. The picture explains it all. The intake tube cut from the pan is a press fit into the plumbing parts from the hardware store. The funnel holds 6 quarts. 4 more are ready with the caps off. When you start the car it goes quick. My helper pours the 4 quarts as fast as she can. I have just enough time to shift Park through Drive and back to park (brake on of course). I would say all ten quarts go through in 30 seconds. I have a 2 foot square pan under the trans to catch the fluid and a tarp under that. The board is 1/4" plywood with 1 1/8" hole. I slip the hole over the intake tube on the new pan. Used a transfer punch to transfer 4 holes to the board. 4 6mm x 1.0 bolts, 25mm long. The board bolts to the transmission and holds the intake tube in place. From my research that is the preferred way a transmission shop does a full flush.

 

Dear Don,

i want ask if it is really necessary to clear the Mechatronic adaptations and update the firmware ? My trans runs good i have no problems i want to change only the fluid and the filter.

thank you in advance

mustafa

 

Hello Mustafa,

No, you do not have to clear the adaptations and update the firmware if your transmission is otherwise operating properly. You can change the fluid, filter and connector sleeve, and while you have the pan off it would be prudent to also drop the Mechatronic and replace its seal adapter.

Cheers,

Don

 

Hello Don,

thank you very much for Quick answer.. I have to look if i can find the connector sleeve and the seal adapter here in Turkey.

I prepared the hoses, these was the parts i could find only but i think it will fit.

I will make some pictures and share with you.

Thank you again
Mustafa

 

A point of interest here on the mechatronics sleeve when replacing.

Make sure the new one has black O rings on it. Your original may have orange O rings which apparently are prone to leaking as indeed is the bridge seal under the mechatronics unit itself due to age.

In watching quite a few Youtube videos the above points are brought up frequently by people who do this work for a living.

When I get around to doing my Rover Z6HP28 trans I will be replacing the rubber tube seals as well as the bridge connector under the mechatronics unit and also all the solenoids.

Obviously lots of people do not bother with all of this and seem just fine.

These transmissions do fail tho and the % of failures may be small but when "in there" I will replace what I can and feel more confident about the transmission.

I will also use Mercon SP instead of LF6

 

Hi Mustafa,

Your hoses look great! Can't wait to hear how it goes and to see some photos!

Cheers,

Don

 

Don, Thanks for answering every question I had about this process. Fantastic Resource!
I said every but as I set about to do the flush one more question came up. What have you used to remove the pan bolts when the splined socket hole becomes stripped out?

 

Vise grips worked on mine.