OK, new info I hope. Today, I went over to my shop with a completely charged battery (it was fine before but I wanted to make sure) and tried some diagnostic things.

I borrowed a set of noid lights from Autozone and I found my spark tester.

I took the plastic cover off that fits over the coils and the plastic cover off that fits over the fuel rail and injector harness.

I disconnected and raised the harness for the fuel injectors up far enough to put the noid light into the first injector plug at the front of the motor. I also pulled the coil off from that same cylinder and hooked the spark tester to the coil in place of the spark plug. The spark tester has a wire with a spring clip on the end and I hooked this to one of the studs that hold the intake to the cylinder head.

When I cranked the engine with the key I had regular flashing of the noid light for the fuel injector. So the ECU is indeed sending a signal to the injector. The spark tester did have a spark showing but it was a lot less often than the flashing of the noid light. Whether this is at the right time or often enough to start the car I am not completely sure. There is spark there though.

So if I have regular flashing of the noid light on the injector as the engine is cranking and what I think is a spark from the coil doesn't that eliminate the crank sensor and possibly the cam sensor?

 

Just got back :

If you had 2 test lights the flash count would be the same unless the spark as you observed was weak for some possible reason . Or the tester was week in being able to detect it .

ECU ground poor as the 6 coil return wires are ground seeking provided by the ECU

The power to the 6 coils by the 1 shared White / Pink wire ( PI1 connector ) is compromised .

The Cam position is what is used for the primary timing device ( as it can see exactly where all 6 cylinder are at on TDC ) in the initial starting sequence . If the ECU does not see it it will revert to the Crankshaft Position Sensor . It will only see # 1 or the sister cylinder as it is on TDC after the exhaust stroke . It tries for a bit thinking it is looking at # 1 and if it doesn't see a light off it will shift the rotation count 1 turn and assume it has found the true # 1 . Takes longer this way but will start and gives a code P0340 . I had this as I received the car . Cleaned connector and P0340 is gone

Still think you have a partial failure of the Crankshaft Sensor as a possibility . I was able to get a refund on my new Crankshaft Sensor after I got the wrong one as I needed the Camshaft , returned that one too to a different store chain.

Do remove and inspect down in the ECU connector . Look for the 2 pinching tabs in each socket as 4 of mine where bad , clean the grounds along the upper firewall in the engine compartment , and clean the case ground as the ECU mounts with the bottom bolt .

The socket removal tool is a 2 prong device very unlike a single .

You can nick the White / Pink wire and bring power with a service wire from the right engine fuse box B + terminal post as a quick tick to bypass the PI1 connector .

Did you ever get a short light off earlier ?

I'll be around til 10 pm

 

I am not sure what you mean by "short light off earlier"

When you say "socket removal tool is a 2 prong device very unlike a single" I am again unclear as to what you are talking about here.

I am still looking around on the fuel supply system to see if I can figure out a way to get a true fuel pressure supply reading. I really would like to definitely eliminate this from the issue or not. I tried the connections on the fuel filter this evening but no luck so far at getting them loose. I sprayed it down with PB Blaster before I left the shop in the hopes that this will help if left overnight. The damn Jaguar engineers put that fuel filter in a really stupid place as far as accessibility. Plus it seems the wrench sizes on the connections on the filter are really a strange size. The hex on the filter itself seems to be just slightly smaller than 19mm or 3/4" and the actual line connector that must be turned seems to be slightly smaller than 17mm or 11/16". I finally found a 16mm wrench in my tool box and that can barely be squeezed onto the connector. I really would like to be using line wrenches on this but nobody makes a 16mm line wrench that I have ever seen.

 

A quick start then quick stall , you said you had puffs .

If you were to remove the sockets we'll look at that later .

I drilled a hole in the Fwd side as mounted hex nut area on the FPR and epoxied and in a small brass tube from the model airplane shop . Fire hazard so I removed and drained FPR . Next I epoxied in a $ 5 tire gauge . This is in no means permanent but gave me the information I needed . This gives you information ( 43 PSI ) on a possible bypassing fuel back to the tank . Normally they do hiss . Don't drill a hole in the fuel rail .

Or you can just change the FPR as I was able to return mine after troubleshooting . They don't last forever anyways $ 65 at the local parts store

Looking in the garage for the preferred tubing wrench size

 

I have a spare fuel rail sitting around at my shop so I am really thinking about welding a bung port onto the spare fuel rail. It has been sitting around on the shelf of my shop for years so it would not have any fuel vapors in it.

The car does not start at all. It just barely chuffs when turning the engine over and constantly tickling throttle. It's like it's about to start but does not catch.

I think I will call tomorrow and see what my shop price is on a crank sensor. I see I can get an off-brand one from Rockauto for about $63 plus shipping. A Standard Motor products one or a Airtex/Wells one is $102. I have no idea what my shop pricing on one will be.

 

Might risk desoldiering the end caps and leak afterwords not found years later .

Autozone for the FPR and CKPS

 

Is the fuel rail brass or some other material?

 

Should be steel as I scotch brighted it and repainted it . Didn't like the surface corrosion , not on M'Lady P . And there was a bad tool mark on it to inspect for skin percentage loss , 30 % max on aircraft .

 

You have established that the liquid in the fuel pipes is fuel, rather than water?
A squirt of quickstart into the inlet while cranking might be quite illuminating, and could eliminate a number of possibilities quickly and easily.
Just a thought.

 

Yes, the liquid in the lines is indeed fuel and does not have any water present. While I had the line to the fuel rail disconnected, I used the pump to send some into a jug so I could look at it. No water present.

I did try a spray of starting fluid early on in the process of diagnosing this and it did not make any difference. It still would not start. I will try that again today.

 

I ordered a CPS this morning for $63 since I have a feel that might be it but later today I will reassemble everything and try the starting fluid again.

So a reply or two ago it was stated that the ignition spark occurrence should take place just as often as the pulse of the noid light pulse on the injector? Did I understand that correctly?

 

Sure ,

In a 4 cycle 2 revolution sequence you have 1 injection pulse for each 1 firing per the 2 revolutions or 4 cycles .

Looking for that tubing wrench and will put on the nuts to doublecheck . I think it was a 11/16 because I was surprised that it wasn't a metric . I'll also micrometer both nuts out if there's room .

Tubing wrench is preferred on the line B nut as it is aluminum and the filter is steel so an open end can be used , hence the dissimilar metal corrosion . Might have to heat with a non - flame heat gun , this would help wick in some penetrate spray as it cools below it's boil off temp .

 

The nut on the lines is a 5 / 8 tubing wrench without too much sloop . It's a steel B nut but I would still recommend a tubing wrench least you twist the tubing . Warming up before going back out for the filter hex . There was something about the clamping hardware as I look today while replacing the filter last summer . The bracket itself stays with the car but I'd like to remove it some day and clean it up and paint as it looks nasty .

 

The filter hex is a 3 / 4 ths and a 12 inch larger crescent wrench head will fit in the area . The hex measured 0.750 . It's cold

 

I am looking for the Papa Indy 1 connector you described and illustrated with a photo but the wiring plugs I have in that same area on my 1997 car look different. Can you verify from the photo if I am looking at the right connector?

 

Yep , dat dem dare , the later models have 2 blacks , open them both up and look , you'll have to go by wire color .

 

As a test I disconnected all of the electrical plugs off of each coil and then plugged a noid light into each plug, one at a time (see attached photo) and then turned the motor over to watch the flash from the noid light. From all six coil power supply plugs I get a regular predictable flash from the noid light as the engine turns over using the ignition key. Does this mean I probably don't have a corroded Papa Indy 1 connector?

The light from the noid light when it flashed was not as bright as I expected but perhaps that is the nature of these small LED lamps in the noid lights.

 

The timing of the spark is getting the signal , the quality of the timing and ground quantity is unknown , but you can clean the ECU grounds along the top engine firewall and the ECU ' case " ground as the lower aft mounting bolt to address the ground quantity . The coil depends on the quantity amperage / current of the power going through that PI connector . It is common that both connectors are corroded and there even is a TSB on this . Corroded connectors limit amperage / current quantity .

 

I have scrolled through this thread but I do not see my exact situation. New battery, but when I go to start its like I have lost all power but to the fans in the engine compartment, and the interior blower fan will run. But past that dead car, I also cannot shift out of park with key in run position. I got this used as like all cars used car used headaches. And today when I was checking to see if inertia switch was tripped it was good, I keep reading the BCM can cause these exact headaches. The alarm started going off and I cannot get it to turn off now either. I am getting frustrated with this car... Any advice of what or where I should be looking. This is my 1st Jag, usually I am a BMW guy but I thought hey I can venture off and play with a new brand of car.

 

Generally the thing to do when you do not find your exact scenario in a thread, is to start a new one. That being said, In my no crank issue the BCM was at fault, I did not have other BCM functions working, so I gave a used module a go and lucked out. Hopefully someone else can chime in with the proper diagnostics to check if the bcm has failed.