RHD X300, NON traction car, just for the records.

The ever reliable X300 has developed a constant "anti-lock" light.

This has happened before, and I found that the dust from the Semi-metallic pads I run had coated the front sensors, so simply wiping them clean fixed the light.

NOT this time.

Soooooo, after much reading of the archives, and numerous glasses of Gods Necta, I reckon the "motor drive" joints in the "black box" have gone AWOL.

Simple enough, I really do understand what to do. My question is:

How is the best way, or maybe the only way, of getting that "box" off the bottom of the hydraulic unit???.

I understand the bolt in multi pin socket, and the 2 wire plug for the actual motor, and I can sort of feel 2 hex heads on the under face of that "box", but getting a spanner on them may test things a tad.

Do I have to undo all those hydraulic lines and mess with all that, or is there something magical I am just not seeing/feeling.

AS usual, thanks in advance.

 

I'll like to hear any advice on this as well as my turn is surely coming.

However....

Over the last few months I had been getting an intermittant ABS warning light that eventually turned into a constantly-on ABS warning light.

After a couple weeks of staring at the light I cleaned all the sensors and connections but no joy. I was about ready to post a question just like yours.

As a last ditch experiment I tried the "hard reset" trick and, by golly, it worked !

Just thought I'd throw it out there. Might be worth a try.

Cheers
DD

 

Thanks, I seriously did NOT think of that.

Midnight here now, so at first light I will "kill" the power to the beast.

Certainly will do NO harm.

 

My worsening ABS light issue was resolved by unplugging that bolt in connector & reconnecting it (effectively cleaning the connection). May not solve anything, but won't take long to try!

 

OK, not fixed YET.

Did the hard reset, unplugged the bolted terminal block, re-bolted, unplugged the 2 wire socket on the top for the motor feed. All lights out, 3 days now, till today.

Back on after about 15 minutes running. Off each time I restart the car, but ON as soon as the brake pedal is moved. BUGGA.

I will persist with it once things cool down a tad, near 40c for the next couple of days, I will find a way of getting those 2 bolts out without having to remove the hydraulic unit.

Obviously this is a "female" gremlin, probably Redhead, HA.

 

Grant,
As you know this isn't a car I know much about but could it be the brake switch?
There's a lot in the XK8/R section on a bend-the pipes ABS removal but, again, I don't know if that applies - and you're a bit away for a stroll over!

 

Thanks Steve,

I am not sure of the switch bit, coz ALL I have read about this errant light here and the "other place, sigh", is all related to the module being the gremlin, and the 2 pin style posts for the motor drive plug on the circuit board.

The pipes will always have that bit of "give" in them, so maybe releasing the mount and "springing" it upward to get to teh under belly bolts may be the go.

I will sort it when it cools down, and of course some "inner lubrication" first, just to calm the nerves.

 

mine has same problem will have a look when i get "her" back from workshop in for yearly safety check known as MOTC in blighty

 

Essential - and, of course to avoid the dangers of dehydration which can kill without warning.
A couple of Jag techs said they just bend the module on its pipes to get the module off (XK8) so I don't think you're risking breaking anything.

 

Of course to be certain, find your "nearby" Tech that has WDS or equivalent and read the codes for a C1095 to confirm the motor pins failure.....but as to removing the module, it sounds and looks much more frightening than it is in practice: Mine is LHD, so I don't know what differences you may find, but loosen the two nuts clamping the pump module onto the bracket fore and aft around some isolators. Lift the entire asy, ABS module still attached, upward, forward, and inboard - "rolling" it toward the center of the engine bay, as it were. Yes....you will be bending a number of brake lines. Proceed cautiously so as not to kink any and you'll be fine. Soon, you'll have sufficient clearance to bring your spanners to bear, and Bob's your uncle! Don't use up all your caution in bending the brake lines....you'll need some to apply to cutting the module open

See pages 16-17 for the pics I took whilst doing the mending. Unfortunately, I didn't do a very good job of photodocumentation of the module removal. There is one or two though.

VDP Mechanicals Photos by holbrz1 | Photobucket

 

Hi Grant ... i've removed mine 3-4 times to attempt the "re-solder" fix of the two pins.

Removal of the complete unit is not necessary - the module can be removed on its own.

1) There are three vibration mount bolts which holds the complete unit in place - two fore and one aft of the unit. Remove all three.

2) I use a 20" 3/8 extension and slide it under the "upper" hydraulic lines, then rest one end of the extension on the firewall and the other on the power-steering sump. This "holds up" the ABS unit high enough so that a hand can reach under (to access the two bolts that hold the module in place)

3) Remove the module's multi-pin electrical connector.

4) Use a T20 star socket, remove the 2 star=head bolts from underneath to remove the ABS module. I use a "miniature" ratchet (4" handle, Sears #41469, also known as a screwdriver ratchet), which the star socket fits directly into the ratchet head.

5) Pull down on the module slightly until it's free, then slide it out.

 

Good Lord, all this info, i feel like doing it NOW, but wait its 42c out there, NAH, beers cold, plenty of time.

Just turned the ign ON in the MK10, and the temp gauge went half way to N, no choke needed HAHA.

THANKS HEAPS GUYS, it will be sorted, one cooler day.

 

OK, after a week of HEAT, things are cooler for a few days so X300 "anti-lock" light repair time.

NOT convinced its the module, YET.

4 wheels off, 4 sensors out of their holes, all clean, bugga.

Checked the front toothed wheels for debris, or something, nothing.

Checked the rears, FOUND IT.

The RH toothed wheel was no longer a toothed wheel. Nothing sinister, just clogged with "road gunk", creating a "wheel" of almost smooth circumference, hence NO signal sensing. Small blade screwdriver through the sensor hole, and scribed one tooth slot at a time until cleaned, and then brushed with a small brush and some degreaser, followed by water flush.

Checked the LH, some clogging, nowhere as bad, so cleaned also.

Nothing else unplugged, or disconnected, so I am doing ONE thing at a time, so when the light stays OUT, I know what fixed it.

Light out now for 3 days, brakes as good as they always have been.

As for the "muck" I believe just dust build up on a toothed wheel that had a small amount of grease residue on it, possibly from the universal joint adjacent??.

If it "lights up" again. I will repost obviously.

 

Great catch.

It would be very surprising if your fix was not relatively permanent as the logic is perfectly sensible.

Lots of people know one half of the puzzle, which is to clean the sensors. But, there has to be something to sense.

 

Excellent work :-)

A couple years ago I was suffering an ABS issue (one of several over the years) and found that the "toothed wheel" was loose on the right rear hub. It's supposed to be a press fit....and it was, but just *barely*. I used some Loctite to beef-up the installation and all has been well since.

In that case the ABS would come on only when going 'round corners. <shrug>

For some time now I've had a problem where the ABS light will come on if I cross a particular railroad track at exactly 35 mph. I presume the jolt aggravates a faulty connection somewhere......possible the solder joints in the module? I dunno.

The "fix" in that case is to cross the tracks at either 30 mph or 40 mph. Not 35 mph :-)

More recently, and I think I mentioned this earlier in the thread, my ABS was on at all times. A hard reset fixed (or masked) the problem.

On the bright side I haven't had a "P0430" episode in quite a long time :-)

Cheers
DD

 

This description if very helpful aholbor1. Are the photos still posted in your Photobucket? I couldn't find the relevant photos in there (although there are lots of other good shots for other things in there!).

Thanks,

Lew

 

This may sound daft, but I removed the screw/bolt that secure the sensors, but wasn't able to get either of the rear sensors out of the hub. How did you get them out?

 

They do tend to get bound up. Some penetrating oil should help. Just don't be in a hurry.

 

Time for more PB'laster. I can get it to spin a little either way, but no upward movement.

 

I haven't deleted them. Maybe higher page numbers now....as I move others into that folder from camera downloads they (the new ones) become page 1...lemme look....

Yep, ABS module pics are now on 18-20