Have an issue where I had no brakes. Pedal went straight to the floor. I do not have the teves system.. Found a used abs pump and controller. Installed and no change. Found a used master cylinder and bench bled then installed. Was going to bleed the system the next day and when moving it., I had very good brakes although I knew I had some air in the lines. Abs light came on so I figured the abs I had installed was bad. Re-instalked my old abs and bled the system. Now I do not have an abs light but I also do not have brakes again. Question is. Is the used master cylinder now bad or do I have a bad vaccume booster?

 

The ABS light as a fault has a count before showing and it will not extinguish until a speed of 12.5 MPH

No Teves system ?

See Section 12

 

You would think the ABS module is designed in a fail safe manor which would retain braking action but no brake / skid modulation

I had a new single wheel brake cylinder go bad on a different car and had the same pedal travel as no brakes at all with the old school shuttle valve not moving over

 

I do not have be the teves system with the accumulator ball that was on the 93's to early 95's. I have a convention brake system that was installed on mid 95's onward. Pedal goes straight to the floor. I had bled the system with a book under the pedal to keep from blowing seals that I had read about in earlier post. I had brake pedal until i replaced the abs pump and controller.. I bled the air from the system and now I do not have brakes. Have ordered a rebuilt master cylinder and will install and bleed.

 

Could I have possibly fried the used master cylinder by using a book of only 1.5" during the bleed process? Had perfect brakes with replacing the master cylinder with air in the lines that needed to be bled. Knew I had the abs light so I knew I needed to replace the abs unit. Replaced the abs controller and pump and bled the system from the open abs and master cylinder. Now no brakes.

 

I suspect you have an air lock somewhere in the system between the master cylinder and the ABS pump. Even with a dud abs pump and the abs light on, you should still be able to get a firm pedal. Even if an individual calliper is leaking, as each wheel is hydraulically independent you would still have some pedal.
start afresh bleeding the system, and try using a pressure bleeder rather than pumping the pedal. They aren’t expensive and produce much better results.

 

I had a pressure bleeder @ 15psi and was not getting any fluid movement in rear or front unless the pedal was pushed. Started rear passenger side and followed path of next closest to the master cylinder in the bleeding process. When pressing pedal, (engine running) i was getting a good squirt of fluid on the rears each pedal push. On the fronts I was getting very little on each push. I had a hose with a 6oz magnetic mount bottle and I ran about 4 bottles of brake fluid on each side of the rear. Would take about 6 pedal pushes to fill a bottle on the rear. Would take about 15 to 20 pedal pushes on the fronts to fill the bottle. I have no brake pressure at the pedal after bleeding. Same thing I had before replacing the master cylinder. Only braking action is the emergency brake. Brake system is the late 95 to 97 setup. I have a 94 that has the gas accumulator ball and I'm getting warm fuzziness knowing I get to tackle that system next. 1995 vanden plas and a 1994 xjs. I am a glutton for punishment.

 

If you get no fluid movement with a 15psi pressure applied to the reservoir, it would make me wonder about the master cylinder

 

I have a new master cylinder ready to put on. Currently raining so will have to wait until tomorrow.

 

Put the new master cylinder on and have not bleed the system but i have brakes again. Bench bled the mc but have not bleed after install. Don't really have spongy brakes but know i need to bleed the system.