Well...I did my first MAF job this weekend! There wasn't a way to remove the actal sensor from the intake tube, so I just sprayed the sensor by spraying MAF cleaner through the mesh in front of the sensor. I also took off the throttle body...ANOTHER FIRST! It was awesome - scrubbed it out on the back side with a toothbrush and some throttle body cleaner. It was N.A.S.T.Y. All caked with brown sludge. Standing oil in the folds on the tube side of the throttle body...(wtf is that there???) and the inside of the intake manifold looked nasty too...but I have no idea what to do with that.

Here is what I need. I have cleaned the MAF and throttle body along with 3-4 tanks for some heavy duty injector cleaner. I changed out the plugs for some brand new Champion coppers. What else can I do to clear up my rough idle? Here are some things I know I haven't done:

1 - I didn't disconnect the battery after cleaning the MAF. I don't know if the computer will auto map the cleaned MAF or if I need to disconnect the battery to do it.

2 - I didn't change out the gas filter yet. I know where it is...it's getting to it that is going to be the problem without a lift.

3 - Fuel pump does whine quite loud and will invariably need to be removed. (I can't wait to do this job. Better stock up on some mild sedatives now)

What else should I do???

Thanks - you guys are awesome for all your help

 

You ar eon the right track. Theoretically, th eMAF should remap on it's own, but it would not hurt to do the hard boot.

re you getting any OBDII codes along with the rough idle?

Did you examine the coils while changing the plugs, looking for any cracks or tell tale white discoloration? How about the boots?

 

Haven't checked for codes yet, I guess it could tell me there is a bad coil or something. There didn't appear to be anything wrong with the boots or coils or anything. Couple plug tubes had a bit of oil, nothing terrible. Prob solve that with a valve cover gasket kit?

 

Hi
I noted you mentioned some oil in the spark plug wells.... yesterday I pulled my IG coil on CYL #5 and found a lot of oil in there..... Today I got an add to my post from Caldercay on the issue of oil in in spark plug wells..... You might want to check my post for further info on this.. "How to change Ignition Coil ? 's" post
and caldercay's
Here is a link to my post

How to change Ignition Coil ?

Spark plug bores filled with oil ... *again* !

I hope this is of some help to you

BigBossRadio in Dallas, TX

 

If you can do without the car for a week, or so, consider just sending the injectors out to be tested and renewed.

My old TR7 injectors were soooo clogged that it wouldn't even start. I sent them to a service (WitchHunter Performance - Injector Cleaning & Flow Testing Services$17 each back then, $22 now) and a week later I got them back were renewed and bench-tested within a 2% flow rate of each other. When he got them, they wouldn't even fire. Dropped them in the car and it fired up after sitting for years. I don't know the price of new injectors, but they were pricey for the TR7.

I often find a rough idle can be due to a vacuum leak.