I see your hand on the air filter on the back wall of the radiator and will have a look at mine

The supercharger intercooler has a separate electric coolant pump that I don't have but I thought it was on the car's right side for some reason

looking for a fuse to conform

The initial first click of the fuel pump relay comes from the ignition switch. between pin X and 5 of the ignition switch connector

If you have a bad switch the switch can be replaced without removing the key barrel and so no new key needed

The pin 5 is important as it is a car frame ground., this same pin 5 is used with pin Y for starter rotation enable

I found corrosion on my pin 5

The connector is easy to get to with the curved cover under the steering coluum , pic is of the switch side on the 5 wire connector

Pic comming

 

I jumped the relay and the pump goes but with pump on and starter going it still does not fire.

 

Intercooler pump fuse # 16 /10 amp right engine bay fuse box

I see you jumperd the # 1 fuel pump relay

You have A # 2 fuel pump relayyou can jumper fwd of the battery

same 3 to 5

 

If the fuel pump is failing it can burn the sockets on the pump motor connector and burn the power contacts inside the fuel pump relay

 

Do you have signs that you have fuel in the exhaust

This would be a indication you have a cylinder bore wash condition causing temporary low compression to start

There is a remedy to get out of the bore wash condition if the case

 

have you used starter fluid in the intake to confirm you have ignition?

Cleaned the face of the CKPS of grime thowing off yor timing ?

The Camshaft postion sensor ( CMPS code P0340 ) comes into play on the starting sequence but the engine will start with the Cam sensor connector removed, just more starter rotations

 

I did just try starting with starter fluid and engine does not fire. So something inhibits ignition?

 

The ignition coils have power " sitting " on them and the ECU provides a individual timed ground

The power sitting on the coils come from fuse # 12 , this is different than the fuel injectors.

The ECU is powered by 2 sources fuse # 12 and Z with Z being the large # 5 relay as it is controlled by the ECU and brings power back into the ECU

So the large relay # 5 powers the ECU , some engine sensors and the fuel injectors but not the ignition coils ,the ECU is needed to provide grounds for both the injectors and coils

Pic coming and notice the finger pointing at the tie point

The first power to the ECU is point 32 double hash on the right side of the print which is fuse # 12 / 10 amp right engine bay fuse box.... this is your power sitting on the coils

in order that the fuse be powered it must have the relay in the corner of the fuse box close controlled by the ignition switch providing a ground on through that pin 5 of the ignition switch connector

To test the small relay closing have the key in the run position and remove the relay , it should click in your fingers back to the open position

It can be swapped with the same relay in the left engine bay fuse box as in reality the left only controls the car horn

 

I think we have established that the car is immobilised (or at least the ECU thinks it is). That's why it won't start.

I think your next step should be to test all of the circuits for continuity (resistance) between the key barrel (coil), the Reader/Exciter module, the Security module and back to the ECU. I still think this may be due to a damaged cable (given that you could previously start the car by pulling on cables)

I've extracted what I think are the relevant pages from the manuals (and annotated them a little) in to the document attached. Test all of the connections shown end to end. We are trying to eliminate any broken or damaged cables as a cause of your problem. Also check power and ground at the indicated pins on the modules. I think this is as far as you can go with basic tools. If all of these check out OK then more sophisticated tools would be required.

 

the fuel pump control / enable comes in the form of a ground to close the fuel pump relay

this ground is provided by the engine ECU either by seeing the ignition switch trigger for the first 3 seconds or the CKPS for the duration of your drive

The engine ECU can and possibly be blocked from providing the ground by the immobilization section

the inertia / crash switch involved can be thought of as a independent section different from the immobilization section

your lack of ignition observation could be the engine ECU being inhibited by the immobilization section

 

Thank you for this. I will update when Iv'e tested more next time I'm in the garage.

 

Today I tested the resistance on all the cables from the barrel coil to the Exciter to the SCLM. According to the diagram ( Fig 1 page 6 on your pdf) the exciter should have 8 pins with cables yet i only have 6, no ground (black) and no SU (Slate Blue). Is it something i am misunderstanding? I will attach a photo of my connector and an annotated diagram of what I've measured and not.

I also checked faults with an obd2 scanner today. I got the P1791 code. I guess this is what the new warning light is about. Does this have to do with the TPS? Does it have relation to the main issue or not? I have gotten this once before while the car was immobilised but after starting it went away.





New warning light, top left.

 

See page 132

Your P1791 is not listed but if I recall there are topics on it as it is a odd one in the X300 world

801S TITLE (jagrepair.com)

 

[x300] OBD Codes P1791 & P1621 - X300 - Jag-lovers Forums

 

I'm going to say the ground is important as the other wires carrying a sensitive signal and it's processing inside the box is as well sensitive and the ground serves to protect the signals or in the circuit lines of functionality inside

I'm assuming you have the black wire present in the connector and can provide a car frame ground point

The oroginal ground point may be compromised or disturbed by working under the dash

 

Your lower Slate / Blue wire probably goes back to the trunk through a couple of connectors not shown but most likely the big BT - 4 connector above the fuel tank

There should be a tie wrap on the lock bar to ensure the connector is seated

The trough wall connector has some sheet metal layers cutout so it can seat but the cutout can still get in the way

It can be a pain to reconnect, and you have to not break the lock over bar pins

 

I'm looking for the section in the wiring guide for the small pic you have in your first post

Your pic has different wire colors and does not show the BT - 4 connector above the fuel tank involved

 

I see it on page 163 of the 95 wiring guide that does not show a black ground wire

Does not show on the 96 and 97 wiring guide even though I see the exciter ring / coil

 

Did you look for this shut off switch under the kick panel and press the red button to reset it? If this is tripped, youll never start

 

Sometimes the inertia / crash switch will trip for no reason and sometimes it will not reset by pressing the button.

You can jumper the 2 white wires on the 3 wire connector.with a paper clip , worked for me

The above pic is not from a X300 but close and wire colors are different from the X300