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More words in the edit above , thinking a bit for a different way to understand , My training was as an engineer
yeah i can tell.
its good and its great to get a full understanding, and i really do love the indepth.
and the more i begin to understand the more that it all makes sense.
i just find it difficult sometimes to place the specifics into the practicality of what it means and what it actually does.
it would be like if i started talking to you about the science of coffee roasting.... lol...
just a thought on that note, could a crankshaft position sensor cause a high idle? Or is that more likely to cause misfires..
If it fails, it will more likely just stop the engine. Your higher idle may be an idle air valve that is gummed up with some carbon or other gunk ( note highly technical term!) and it can't move as much as it should to close off the bypass passage.
If it fails, it will more likely just stop the engine. Your higher idle may be an idle air valve that is gummed up with some carbon or other gunk ( note highly technical term!) and it can't move as much as it should to close off the bypass passage.
yeah planning to give the tb and associated bits a clean on the weekend.
The IAC valve has bolts that break off so heat is required , loctited 5..5 mm odd size
Do not remove the TPS from the TB , you don't want to lose the fine adjustment
for now i will just take the tb off, clean it all and put it back on.
sounds like a potential PITA to remove and replace the iacv so i will just try and clean it while attached atm.
and will take note and not remove the tps.
overall it feels to me the car is running well.
except for the high idle so i don’t want to mess anything up in the process of chasing it down.
fuel economy has improved and remained settled now it has been a few weeks since replacing the O2 sensors.
it is currently sitting at avg 13.9 L/100. That is with driving to and from work every day with a combination of motor way and regular driving.
not heavy traffic stop start.
so much happier.
There is the precaution to not get cleaning fluid past the IAC valve seal and into the stepper motor
The newer IAC valves which may include yours when the car was produced may have the improve Teflon seals
So bottom line keep the IAC oriented to not have fluid draining down into the IAC stepper motor
With the IAC connector better exposed this would be a good time to check with a meter to ensure you don't have a " open leg " that would prevent the valve from settling down to the correct almost fully closed commanded position
That figure of 13.9 L/100Ks is about what I see in around town running, or roughly 20 miles per imperial gallon or 16&1/2 miles per US gallon
I usually see between 9 and 10 L/100Ks on highway driving on round trips of 300 to 400 Ks.or 30 to 27 MPG (Imp) or 25 to 22 MPG (US)
So apart from the high idle I think you are now running about standard fuel consumption figures.
Cheers
That figure of 13.9 L/100Ks is about what I see in around town running, or roughly 20 miles per imperial gallon or 16&1/2 miles per US gallon
I usually see between 9 and 10 L/100Ks on highway driving on round trips of 300 to 400 Ks.or 30 to 27 MPG (Imp) or 25 to 22 MPG (US)
So apart from the high idle I think you are now running about standard fuel consumption figures.
Cheers
thats great to hear. So o2 sensors were certainly the biggest culprit of my issues.
she is feeling pretty nice to drive.
just installed andy bracket like 5 mins ago so am really interested to see what changes that brings.
So i have attempted to take the air temp sensor from the elbow to clean it.
i started to undo it and it unscrewed a little but I can’t remove it.
i can’t remove it or screw it back down.
all that happens now is it turns and turns turns.
there is a little gap now
Does this look right?
Full trottle (before engaging kickdown) should sit about here (see pic #1)
and then after engaging kickdown should push that bit further and push on the vacuum advance a little?
You can see in the second photo where I have added the arrow that the throttle has moved around to the stop. That is full throttle when it can't rotate any more. In the first photo you can move the throttle quite a bit more. Can you rotate the throttle to the stop by the pedal alone?
The vacuum capsule is for the cruise control to actuate the throttle.
It may look like that but at that point the butterfly is fully open.
and on the torque app when i push the pedal to the kickdown switch it reads 90% and when i push it that little bit extra and click the switch it reads at 100%
So yes. The pedal does fully activate the throttle.
gear shifting down is happening before kickdown is engaged
what has got me now tho is it appears to not be entering closed loop running mode.
rpm seems the same at cold start and when hot.
torque is reading 80c
whichbis too cold, but removing one of the sensors i get a coolant temp reading of around 90.
now this is a new temp sensor so i would assume it is good, but the problem i have right now is i cannot remove it.
when try and undo it the plastic fitting just spinning and spinning whilst the actual sensor is not undoing.
i don’t know of the sensor is giving the incorrect reading or the ecu is not showing the data correct.
but it does appear to not enter closed loop hot running mode
i have also noted that the coolant tank temp is only kind of warmish. So does that indicate improper flow?
Last edited by Spud Maat; Sep 30, 2022 at 11:19 PM.
i have also noted that the coolant tank temp is only kind of warmish. So does that indicate improper flow?
No, the coolant doesn't flow through the tank. It's purpose it to be a reservoir and allow air bleed from the system. I doubt your vacuum line fitting is a source of a vacuum leak, they are usually pretty robust.
While cleaning the little clear plastic window brok off of here.
i am not sure the best way to fix it.
i had some “form-a-gasket sealant” around so put a but on it and stuck it back on. Not sire if it will work or a better adhesive will be required.
