Hey Bob, You may have hit on my stalling problem I have had for months. Very simular to what is described in this thread. I just checked my EGR valve and it is BLACK!!! You say there was a recall. Can you tell me what the recall was for. Since mine is black and has never been changed due to a recall that could be the problem all along. Please respond.

Thanks Bob

 

It is surprising to me that if I disconnect / reconnect the battery it will run smooth for 50/60 miles then come back with an ugly idle - I too am going to try to get the wds orientation done and will see if that makes a difference - one can at least hope so right? :-)

 

Did the problem start as the weather started to warm up?

Have you tried removing the gas cap for a day. Try that and see if you throw a code but have no stalling episodes.

 

Greetings all,

I hate to bring this thread back up again, but unfortunately I am now a member of the Mysterious Stalling club with my Carnival red 96 xj6! I have the exact symptoms as described by Etaent many months ago. Occasional stumbling or stalling while at closed throttle.

Etaent and Johnny's, Were either of you able to get reprogrammed at the dealer, and with what results?

I have checked and cleaned all of the intake parts and sensors best I can, without removing the throttle body and disturbing the throttle position sensor. I have checked the coil operation in darkness and no light flashes are seen. The problem persists.

Any ideas for how to specifically test the EGR, the IACV, the MAF? My scan tool shows typical readings for the TPS, and I don't want to take it apart if I don't have to! I don't want to replace parts without knowing for sure that they are bad.

I am running this car with the Air Pump disconnected, as a few months ago I determined that it was the cause of previous stalling problems. After disconnecting it, I no longer had stalls! But now the stalls have returned much more frequently. Perhaps that problem was really this problem!

 

Hi Richard,

At this point I've not taken it to a dealer yet- my local one wanted nearly 400$ to do it- just not in the money pit budget anymore... :-(

Good luck with it!

J.

 

That is steep money for sure Johnny. But it would be worth it, IF it solves the problem and gets your car back to reliable again! At that price, the outcome had better be favorable!

I'm not ready to take my car in yet. I am fiddling away, studying the electrical guides and waiting for the next idea to come to me. I spent several months doing this with my Vanden Plas' no start situation, until finally last month, the solution suddenly hit me! It was frustrating along the way, and some days I just wanted to quit. But I didn't, and eventually found that !@#$% intermittent relay!

I will post up my findings along the way, and look forward to more insight into this not-uncommon problem here on the forum. Best of British!

 

That means after a reset it is running well because it is running on default settings. It adapts over those 50/60 miles to something bad ... in other words some component is not functioning correctly ... and then it runs poorly on the adapted settings.

 

Hi I have the same issue and wondering if you got to the bottom of this. Thank you