THE LATEST

I've been driving this car as a daily driver for four or five days. It has not shut down like it thinks it is being stolen and I have to disconnect the battery for a bit. The remote will unlock the car but will not lock it.

I am selling this car. I have a VDP 96 with a 100K less miles and I can't drive this car often enough to keep the gremlins out. Also, much other stuff swirling around in my life and I don't have the time to sleuth the locking problem out. It is a very good car. First $1000.

Bill Livingston
Hot Springs, Ar.

 

Ron. Can a place a Jag for sale on Jag Forums?

Thanks.

Bill Livingston

 

Here you go, Bill:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/p...classifieds-9/

 

Yes Bill:
Go to the top menu
Select Marketplace
Then select Member Marketplace
Ron

 

Thanks Ron.

 

Ron. Do you know if the micro-switch in the door latches is normally open or normally closed?

Bill

 

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/m.../rchiv-172629/

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/m...gailey-179114/

I do not know the answer to that question Bill, but one or both of the two Gentlemen above will almost positively know.

 

There is a linear switch in the ignition switch that is activated when the key is inserted.
The excellent Steve Sparrow has documented the problems the linear switch caused for him in the jag-lovers.org forum (JagFORUM Logon). Bear in mind that his work here is on a UK spec car which has the added complexity of a security transponder chip in the ignition key that I believe the US spec cars don't have.

To summarise what Steve found - the contacts that are activated when the key is inserted were stuck so that the ECU relay behind the headlights was active even with the key out of the ignition (this also led to running down the battery prematurely). Because this part of the ignition system was not turning off, the ECU didn't know the engine had been shut down, so it failed the engine start sequence, disabling the engine. (Your method of removing and restoring +12V forces the ECU to reset along with all the other modules so that the ECU does know that the engine has been shut down).

A clue to this problem is that you also can't lock the car using the key fob.
Steve found -
When the engine is disabled in this way (at least by this ignition switch lateral movement fault) the doors and boot cannot be locked with the fob for the same reasons that they cannot be locked if the boot lid or doors are actually left open. The locking procedure only works when the ECU relay is off (not powered) but won't work
if the ECU relay is powered when a request to lock the doors is made by the fob. In this case, you will hear a refusal 'peep' from the security horn. Removal of the ignition barrel to free up the igntion switch is done by putting the key in and turning it to position 'I', and then pushing in the little detent pin on top of the outer barrel with a
bent pointed tool. The lock barrel can then be pulled out, exposing the laterally moving part of the ignition switch. Naturally the column shrouding will have to be removed to do this. An alternative method would be to remove the ignition switch itself and free it up or fit a new one.

 

Many thanks for your help. Your information makes sense to me. I will check it out.

Bill Livingston
Hot Springs, Ar.

 

I have now replaced the central locking module, the body processor module, installed a second ground wire from engine to body, and the ignition switch. No fix.

Besides this car I also have a '96 VDP. I'm thinking of switching known working modules, and door latches from the VDP to the '95 XJ. But I worry that I could foul up the known working modules from the VDP. Ideas please.

bliving7