Hi I’m new to Jaguar x300 ownership. I got the car (1995 x300 auto) as a non runner. I’ve been trying to do some checks with the information from a few other threads. The car has been sat outside for 3-4 years and I don’t have any history of what went on with the car. The problems I’ve identified so far:- Check engine light comes on and then goes off before cranking. None of the SLCM functions seem to work, central locking, key fobs, boot release, fuel filler flap, door locking button on dash at all. The car is immobilised and not sure why.

I’ve taken out the SLCM and ECM. SLCM has wet connections, so I’ve dried these and taken the module apart and cleaned. All pins and connections look good. I’ve done the same with the ECM but still no change.

I did notice one of the SLCM connectors has what looks to be 2 wires joined together with a non factory connector. I’m not sure if this is correct or not? The wires are I think the ‘RF input’ and ‘RF ground’. Could this be causing me a problem with starting the car?



Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

During storage the fuse to the alarm may have been pulled

This is fuse either 3 or 4 of the trunk fuse box

The SLCM must be powered to give the starting system an enable

 

Your starter circuit is a little bit different then the the more common 4.0 liter version that has a different transmission , ZF4HP24 with a transmission mounted rotary switch

Your ZF4HP22 does not have this

This is a pic of he 24 that is close but they both have the SLCM enable

 

Your fuse # location is here on page 21

X300 1996 LWB.pdf (jagrepair.com)

 

The dividing point is weither you have the large starter solenoid relay ( left # 4 ) click in your finger tip , don't rely on sound

The body processor module sums up your starter enables and only then the BPM provides a ground to close the relay

 

Thanks for your replies Parker. I have checked that fuses and relays etc are all in where they should be have not blown. My main concern are the wires that are linked together on one of the SLCM connectors. Is this how it should be or has someone else done this to overcome something in the past??

 

Those wires on the slcm do not look factory but they infact are factory.

They are the wires for the remote antenna.
it obviously runs a coax cable (negative shielded around the outside of the positive) but the positive and negative need to be seperated to connect to the slcm

 

If you turn on the stereo the antenna extend wire will be provided a ground

The antenna extrend moter will have power so check for power first

Take a pic of the connector wires colors and can refence against the wiring guide the wires to where

But you have multiple wires on the orange connector

Researching and will be back

If you want to see the starter rotate you can remove the large starter solenoid relay and jumper between sockets 3 and 5 with a blade type connectors on your medum gauge jumper wire




Pic coming

 

Do you have a key barrel lock on both left and right doors ?

jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/jagxj1995.pdf

See section 15.4 for rest of world ( ROW ) models

A cleaner copy is the 96 but there are some differences

jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/jagxj1996.pdf

 

Thanks that makes sense now. I’m glad I didn’t start taking it apart! At least I know that it is factory.

I will continue testing things. I’m convinced that due to the amount of water/moisture in the car that is playing havoc with shorting something that is hot all the time to ground and therefore turning the check engine light off.

 

I do have key barrels on both front doors.

If I wanted to just prove if the engine will turn over, could I put a 12v feed direct from the battery to the starter relay and then use a jumper wire? Would this work if the immobiliser is still preventing a crank with the key?

 

A common thing is a blocked water drain line in the fuel cap filler well that allows water to migrate into the SLCM connectors

The socket X will provide your 12 volts from fuse Z to engage your starter solenoid and starter motor

This would bypass your immobilizer system

 

I’m sure this is what’s happened. When I removed the boot liners to access the SLCM I manually opened the fuel filler flap and its was full of dirt and leaves etc.

If I do this work around I still won’t be able to get it start as there won’t be any power getting to the fuel pump and other ignition parts will there?

 

Please stand by

Good questions

 

Socket # 3 power from fuse # 3 / 25 amp left engine bay fuse box , verified

This does not need SLCM agreement or other enables , so you are not using the Body Processor Module and is out of the picture

This is would only rotate the engine

 

To directly power the fuel pump to see that

In the normal start sequence the fuel pump will only run for 3 seconds then off

You can place your finger on the # 1 fuel pump relay and feel it click in the normal start mode

Storage could have stuck the fuel pump motor

The old fuel in the tank should be drained

 

not sure what that orange connector is.
i noticed it is in my car not connected to anything either
was thinking maybe it was something like the optional inclination sensor or something? I dunno.
but certainly not required for anything.

 

And whatever you do.

if you remove the battery do not plug it in backwards……

don’t ask @Parker 7 what happens if you do that

🤣

 

If you do it is recoverable by yourself

The battery positive post goes fwd, you can place a tape on the battery with an arrow on the tape

Do not tighten the positive battery post bolt too tight , ask me how I know

 

I think the SLCM module is dead.

Unfortunately, this is a bit of a theme where cars have been off the road for a long time. There have been a number of similar threads over the years. Most people give up and never resolve the issue (or never tell the forum anyway) so it's only hearsay.

Here is one thread where the owner did persevere. Sound familiar?


XJ6 X300 No start, no crank - RESOLVED - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum


It's not an easy thing to do without knowledge and proper kit.