By starter resistor you mean ?

How old is the fuel in the tank ?

In the starting sequence the fuel pump will run for 4 seconds only and then off , it comes on for the duration of your drive when the crankshaft position sensor sees engine rotation

By placing your finger on the # 1 fuel pump relay it should click 3 times , on , off , on

Your # 1 fuel pump relay is the brown one outboard and next to the double relay position ( Purple )

This relay can be jumperd with a blade type jumper wire between the forward most socket to the aft most socket

This relay position is hot at all times and will drain the battery with the keys in your pocket

So plan on removing the jumper if the battery is not being charged

The ECU is powered by 2 sources , the small relay ( small right # 9 ) in the right engine fuse box ( called ignition positive relay ) and the large ECU controlled relay ( large right # 5 )

 

HI! I mean it was trying to start from starter solenoid resistor (#4, ignition was only on 2nd position) and starter was running, but when i was trying to start from the key its no luck again

will try later relays #9 and #5... very hope its one of these.. dont know what else it could be...

 

Check the main ECU (drivers footwell). These can have bad connections because of water ingress and causes all sorts of problems.

Unless you have a USA car, the starter will not work from the key unless the check engine light is illuminated after the light check, showing that the immobiliser is turned off.

 

Relays checked, no luck… will try back of ignition tomorrow…

 

Vitochops, You're on Page Three.

I think this is the time you give us an update on everything you've tried so that you don't have people repeating advice you've already taken? It helps sometimes, to clear the air.

 

sorry, you are right)

1. Check starter relay #4 on LH (passenger side), its ok, starter can running if start it from this relay, thats mean starter ok
2. Check relays #5 (engine management system control) and #9 (ignition) on RH (driver side), they are ok
3. Battery ok (tried 2 fully charged batteries)
4. Check Inertia switch (put another), no luck
5. Check position of the gear stick, its ok (all lights on the gears working, took out cover or trim, parking position correct)
6. Checked back of ignition (put another one), no luck
7. all relays in the trunk also checked
8. ECU connections ok
9. When turning ignition on 2nd position, can hear pump working for few seconds
10. Brake switches working

I really dont know what else it can be...
For more information, car not opening or closing from the fob, from the key i can close only RHF door (drivers door), LHF door (passenger) closing only from inside, back doors not closing at all, central locking on the dash not working
All other lights, a/c, fans etc working as normal

Problem is the same - turn ignition on 2nd position, all light (checking system) on, than off (including engine light), after trying to start, nothing happening, no clicks from the starter of something else

 

Is there a way to disable the security system, or ensure that it's not the problem? I'm assuming the key is not chipped.

 

thinks the same to be honest.. do you know how do check it?

 

Working a phone problem and maybe back later in the day

The inertia switch must be pressed to reset or jumper the 2 white wires

 

thanks a lot, found some security fobs problem in the internet, after disconnecting the battery, will try to reprogram this fob as well today

 

By the security code light on for the radio a hard reset may have already been done . I found by using a longer time during reset
I get more though results

The hard reset relates to the security system

The hard reset is more then removing only the battery positive cable for a length of time

 

yes, radio asking about code, what will i can do next?

 

@Cafcpete has already mentioned more than once the "Check Engine Light" must stay on to enable cranking. That assumes it does come on initially on key on (i.e. the bulb isn't blown).

This light is switched on by the ECU to confirm security is OK. If that signal is not provided the car will not crank, full stop. Focus your diagnosis there.

See my post in this thread (#3) for a bit more info.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-crank-245339/

Combined with the central locking not working would point towards a dead Security/Locking module.
(BTW There is a red LED on the locking button on the centre console. If this is flashing it also indicates a fault in the security module. However, if it's not flashing it doesn't mean there isn't a problem.)

 

not, its not flashing (switch on the center console, and not opening or closing doors as well

 

The radio is a separate issue to get back later after the engine start

By removing both battery terminal post cable clamps and clamping them together with a jumper cable you will be doing a hard reset

this with the key off and a piece of cardboard box covering the battery post themselves

Let it reset this way for a long time , overnight best but you can try a 1 hour reset

 

Sorry, typo in info above. If it is on permanently there is a problem.

Flashing is normal state when security is on. Fully off is normal state when security off.

 

Thanks a lot for your respond

and sorry, but I need to put positive and negative leads at one time on its places on the battery (and they should be joint together) is it right?

and will it solve the problem that key lost a signal?

 

no, this light always off

 

Both battery cable terminal clamps in the air and joined with a jumper cable so they are electrically connected

cardboard over the battery post so they do not touch cables in the air

A chipped key may have a lump in the black plastic thumb area , not knowing for sure you have a chipped key , this would possibly resolve a chip security or just security problem by returning the security lock control unit to zero state

 

its definitely cheeped key, that why it was happened… my suggestion is immobiliser lost a signal with the key and it doesn’t allow to start