I'm using a 1996 so there may be a difference or I'm just wrong as I pull it together

 

The reason I'm confused as there was a change after VIN # 746613

This relates to BPM vs, exterior lamp control module

Doing Dyalisis chores

 

Loading 1997 wiring guide so we are on the same page #s and referencing material

 

Yea right on the module it says what it controls. Brake, Rear fog lights (whatever that is), reverse lights, and side marker lights. Everything there is back so now I need to concentrate on the grounding. Again that ground is it under the middle console and if not where? Worse case I will create new ground. Just need to figure out where

 

Doing errands before Kidney Dr. visit in the morning

Have not combined the different pages of prints to get the big picture on the brake lights

I did it for the X308 but that one is different

The ground wire on the ignition switch is the Black one

I have nott raced the ground to the stud just noticed I had green corrosion on the 5 pin

 

Looking at the 97 wiring guide there is a cross over change at VIN # 787954 so would need your number

In the past I was able with the Adobe Acrbat PDF software to be able .to take a snapshot and put it into a Art blank page to draw the important lines

I would magnify the PDF page 200 % before snap shot so the final product is larger and can see the details

That was with my old computer that is still alive but ........issues

I was one of the guys entering the cockpit between flights with many sheets and colored markers in my shirt pocket

Can you do that in Art and I can put it together in art on this side

Editing

WiFi dropping out

on the print I can see the 2 normal left and right brake lights use pin 1 and 4 of the brake switch

Same as the 3rd high brake light which does noy go through the lamp control module

21 double hash circle is the power for the module which goes through the troublesome BT4 connector above the fuel tank

 

The brake switch in how it works for the traction control is to disconnect the TC if hitting the brake so this would be a normal operation of the TC ( if the signal changes open or close ) and not seen as a fault

The pins on the brake switch for the TC are 1 and 2 so this is different then the stop lights

Brake switch adjustment ? I'm not saying do that yet and would probably be best to not disturb

The brake switch is used for the GM transmission of which you do not have

Brake switch pin 1 and 2 are used for the anti lock brake module

Airbag warning light ....... looking into

Power source fuse # 16 which relies on the king relay ( called the auxiliary positive relay ) to stay closed , this path travels through the BT4 connector to the fwd position of the Airbag control module

A second power source is from fuse # 17 Right heelboard fuse box and is hot at all times not needing the king relay for that fuse box

There are 2 fuses for the instrument cluster in the left heelboard fuse box ie fuel gauge

# 5 and # 12 , 5 is hot at all times and 12 relies on that fuse box king relay ( called ignition positive relay as there are 2 called this on the car other one being for the right engine bay fuse box ) that's why I refer to them as king relays and a name I came up with

What is the conclusion.from this is........... the ignition switch through to ground path is lacking on the edge of badness but then you would see multiple failures which you may or may not see as you drive

 

My VIN ends in 797432. As I said, all the lights are working now with the change of the Light Control Module. I will be working on the grounding issue today. I am going to check under the console to look at the ground. Worse case, I will take all the grounds off of that one and the one the drivers kick, clean them all, and put them back on. Not sure I want to put a new ground one yet. I have the next two weeks off, so going to track down all electrical issues I have.

Yea looking at a lot of the manuals out there for a 97, they don't match up with my car, and I have struggled with that. A good example is speed sensors. Those change in mid-year, and I pull some off a 97 at You-Pull-It came home, and guess what? They did not match. So reading a 97 Manual, I can't rely on it until I check my car.

 

Well after cleaning all the grounds and taking sandpaper to them, so far everything seems OK. I guess only time will tell.

 

Well, I had to make the 200-mile journey again. I was hoping not to see any issues. For the last week the gas gauge was working fine from the last time I drove it and I did not have to put in gas till today and when I filled it up the gauge went from 1/4 tank to ZERO and stayed there entire time. When I went up a hill it would come off a little but then go back to zero. So I think this is a float problem and have one to replace.

NOW FOR THE REAL INTERESTING PART. On the journey everything else looked ok for a while and then I received the Trac Fail light at about the same place as last week and stayed on for a while till I stopped. So I figured maybe this is a time or distance-based fault. So I looked at my mileage and the clock and took off. Almost exactly 30 minutes and 37 miles later it came on again. I pulled over, turned off the car, and started back up again. Again 30 minutes later and 37 miles later it came back on( As you can see I was going the same speed so not sure it was a milage thing). With that, I am wondering if there is some module that is telling the track light to come on? Anyone?

 

Fuel tank - Fuel tank cleaner solution ( that may clean your sender ) for a easy try before parts swap

There is a delay purposely built into the ABS / TC module before it will give you a fault light latch . From my understanding the delay is 3 instances of a fault detected before a light and must travel faster then 12.5 mph to unlatch after a repair action so you wouldn't see it unlatch in the driveway


I'm trying to remember the manufacture of the ABS / Tc module and it is a early version as there was changes to it in later years

Starts with a T

Off the top of my head the variable steering amplifier module taps into one of the wheel speed sensors after it passes through the ABS / TC module in a strict series circuit and you can unplug this amplifier and give it a try , This may be your warm up / 30 minite variable as the steering amplifier is using this one wheel speed signal as an intelligence signal only ( and not related to muscle power ) to control the amplifier half of the variable steering amplifier module

This one wheel speed signal may be getting sucked down below the tripping point of a TC fault

 

I was hoping that you would not tell me that. The issue is my sensors will be an ultimate PITA to get out. All four of mine are the stick kind and I will probably break them before getting out so more than likely I will have to live with it or take it to Jag.

How does the tank cleaner work? Do you just put it in with your gas after filling up

 

There is a bottle at the local auto parts store and there is a consideration of a 1/2 tank fil vs. full tank changing the concentration of the working chemical in your faver but then the sender mounting is 1/2 way up from the bottom

Motercarman ( Bob ) had a suggestion on the rear wheel sensors if you reach into the hollow wheel hubs from the inside of the car you can negate the need to remove the sensors to clean the sensor face of metallic filings trapped in grease / grime

There may be a half shaft knuckle in the way so you would rotate the wheel 90 degrees so you would roll the car a bit and look again , no jacking needed

Yours being a 97 takes a different part # than a 96 after VIN # xxxxxx , you would have to consult the parts website

 

"if you reach into the hollow wheel hubs from the inside of the car " not sure I understand. I guess I will search for his post. Also "variable steering amplifier module " is that the box on the rack

 

The rear axle hubs are hollow with a shaft going down the middle of the hollow hub

I have a stuck and broken right rear sensor , so I have been there and Bobs description doesn;t go beyond just pushing them out from the inside

I found a replacement on E- bay for $ 75 with the correct part # but have not put in yet ( alternator bearing bad )

The amp is behind the small side panel by the drivers left foot

I have a reference in the Jaguar LWB pdf in the relay location section see page 19

it is in the position in front of the # 2 front windshield heat relay ( which you may not have as this was a expensive option of having a gold layer in the front windshield glass )

X300 1996 LWB.pdf (jagrepair.com)

 

DO you know where is post is? I will look for it to see if I understand what I need to do to get to that sensor

 

Long screwdriver and the Amp cover is about 18 inches square like the right car side far opposite side for the ECU

There was some editing of previous post with more info

The variable steering amp drives the removable servo that sticks out and attached to the rack assembly

 

ok, I see. You have to pull the hub off to get to the sensor. That is some major surgery to get to it. Might as well do so replacing of other parts while I have everything off. I read where I can use Audi sensors if those are the same ones that I have. I will have to go back to that post. There has to be an easy way to pull those sensors instead of doing the major surgery. I guess I will find out. Either that or keep my trips under 30 min . I assume it still works if the light is not on?

 

No hub removal , look at it from the inside of the tires

My Mom says I need to take a break and eat

 

which side do I need to check for the sensor? I guess on my way back I will go down to the auto store and find the gas tank cleaner. I will give that a shot.