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so, finally got her up on my ramps, got the drain plug off. my breaker bar was not long enough to get enough leverage so i luckily had a nice piece of exhaust pipe lying around to slot over and give me more leverage.
drained the oil, and filled her back up again with some HPR30 (20/60) and some Rislone rear main seal repair.
used a whole bunch of degreaser to clean up a whole bunch of crusty oil everywhere.
ran her a little in the driveway for about 20mins, saw no leaking.
so now to take her for a bit of a drive tommorrow and see how she goes.
heres hoping that the oil leaks are atleast substantially lower than previously.
So. I took her for an hour drive today, and then checked her when i got home.
Great news is the valve cover is not leaking from anywhere (hopefully this holds up well)
so i am very hopeful my repair has worked.
there is still some oil leaking (much less than before) and given where it is leaking from my best guess is on the oil pan seal.
so looking around today i can see the oil is sitting along the bottom of the block, and appears to be coming from around the oil filter.
so i suspect it is the bypass hose.
i have read a little bout this job and seen it fairly easy to do, but just wanted to clarify a few things.
- easiest way to access it? from underneath or removing a few things and coming in from the top?
- what is required? i see 4 rings for the pipe, what am i after? CAC5118 is there an easy common substitute?
- any gaskets or anything needed?
- potentially need an oil filter housing gasket? NBB1716AA
i will check the oil pressure switch whilst i am there and assuming it is leaking and i need to change it what is required for the job and where exactly is it located?
is it just a matter of whack some loctite on the switch and screw it in?
also what is the part cus i read that x300 changed to a switch rather than a sender and the part i can find here says xj40 and x300. is this the right part? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/19192182...UAAOSwoF1ZxL8N
sorry if i am asking questions that have 100 answers already i have read stuff i am just someone that always checks, double checks, triple checks and then checks again, and then clarifies that i checked the right stuff.
*edit.
checked the explosion diagrams on https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic...95-1997-parts/ and now see how good/quick and easy it is to use that site.
still gotta go elsewhere to do my shopping cus UK to AU is expensive and slow.
Last edited by Spud Maat; Nov 29, 2021 at 04:57 AM.
That is still a considerable oil leak you've got there, you'll need to remove the wheel for easy access, then get to it from underneath. Put it on axle stands, start the car, and get under it with a flashlight and watch where its leaking, should be very easy to spot the leak, if its pooling at the filter then my guess is that its leaking from the sender, its to the back of the filter and you'll see it from under the car. You wont be able to fix it, you'll need a replacement. Done mine earlier this year.
If its from the oil cooler bypass, then its easy peasy, undo the bypass and replace all orings, think I found some in a kit I had at home but then ditched the whole thing anyway, you can remove the bypass housing and bolt the oil filter housing directly to the block with shorter bolts.
The only other place to leak oil in that direction that isn't cam cover is front seal. Again, should be obvious from underneath the car.
thanks for the link with the measurements. now to check my spare o-rings before i buy the jag ones.....
looks like i have some that will be the right size.
they are just standard black o-rings so i assume nitrile.
i am ordering parts tommorrow.
new oil pressure switch, new filter housing mounting gasket.
Was going to change the oil filter housing gasket as not sire if leaking and may as well replace while there even if it is nor, but i cant seem to find one locally. Would have to wait a few weeks to get one from the UK.
would it be ok to use gasket sealer here without a gasket? Or is a gasket required here?
I have not had this oil filter housing off on mine so this from someone not having seen it
If with the casiting removed from the engine block and the only oil paths in the tubes sealed by O - rings you should be good as long as the wall of the engine block casting is solid inside the square
The paper / felt based gasket may be placed there as a standard practice on paper as it is engineered but in the real world serves no purpose
The only consideration is the dimension of the O - rings sitting in their seats if it is too far out or in as you clamp it together with the bolts
The metal tubes themselves may bottom out in the holes if you totally leave out any housing square seal gasket
Didn't get my shipment of parts yet, so couldn't do everything.
but i replaced the O-Rings in the Bypass half donut today.
While i was doing the job it got me thinking.
"Why did they use 2 little metal pipes and 4 O-Rings to connect the half donut? why not just use a gasket between the filter housing adapter and the half donut?"
seems just like some over-engineering when a much simpler/straightforward approach with less parts could have done the job.
but anyway O-Rings replaced, lets see how it goes after i run her a bit now.
whilst under there i could say that it seems that this is by far the largest leak. it did not look like the pressure switch is leaking but it does look like possibly there are small leaks coming from THE EVERYWHERE. i suppose, what do you expect when there is 368k KM on the clock.
Great job. I just put in new O-rings in the oil filter housing half circle and now I'm dry too having also changed the oil pressure sensor. Such a nice feeling not having oil spots. Now if I can get my 75 XJ12 to quit marking it's territory, that would be something.
