Power Assisted Brake Failure Possibly
Hello All,
Thanks In Advance For Any Help! A week ago Soldered the 2 pins inside the anti-lock / traction control module after getting C1095 code and both lights went out and put it all back together, I bleeded the lines and brakes worked perfectly for a week. Went to drive this morning and pedal is hard as a rock as if the brake power booster has failed. I can still stop car if I push real hard. However, obviously it is not safe to drive. Any help with this would be great. I am not sure what the issue is for sure or if maybe it is a common issue?
Martin
Thanks In Advance For Any Help! A week ago Soldered the 2 pins inside the anti-lock / traction control module after getting C1095 code and both lights went out and put it all back together, I bleeded the lines and brakes worked perfectly for a week. Went to drive this morning and pedal is hard as a rock as if the brake power booster has failed. I can still stop car if I push real hard. However, obviously it is not safe to drive. Any help with this would be great. I am not sure what the issue is for sure or if maybe it is a common issue?
Martin
Might be easier to just replace the module with a used one. I know the U Pull and Pay in West Palm had a 97 X300 in last week so there might be one there. Used modules usually sell for less than $20 there.
Check the vacuum hose going to the booster for cracks or a loose connection. It's not common for the brake boosters to go bad. It may be the brake booster check valve. I've had the same symptoms with many GM cars in the past. Replacing the check valve seemed to be the easiest fix.
You are a genius and your awesome, it is the check valve and it broke right where the hose connects to it. Where do I get that valve? MNA5910BC is the part number for new hose with valve and I cannot find it anywhere!
Martin
Martin
You might be able to find something thru the Dorman (Help Parts) section in your local auto parts store or just grab one from your local salvage yard. As long as the fittings are the same on both ends they all work the same. They'll probably only charge you a dollar or two. New is probably about $10 using a Dorman part.






