Yesterday I replace my hood and also replace my reach motor and now my remote worn't work. I replaced the batteries and all the lights are function. When I press the unlock...nothing happens but when I go to lock it I get one beep and nothing. I looked at the TSB and it says that I have an ignition switch problem. Not sure how that could have just happened when all I replaced was those two items. It worked fine before that.....A little help would be greatly appreciated.


I found this explanation. Does this make sense?

"There is a linear switch in the ignition switch that is activated when the key is inserted.
The excellent Steve Sparrow has documented the problems the linear switch caused for him in the jag-lovers.org forum (JagFORUM Logon). Bear in mind that his work here is on a UK spec car which has the added complexity of a security transponder chip in the ignition key that I believe the US spec cars don't have.

To summarise what Steve found - the contacts that are activated when the key is inserted were stuck so that the ECU relay behind the headlights was active even with the key out of the ignition (this also led to running down the battery prematurely). Because this part of the ignition system was not turning off, the ECU didn't know the engine had been shut down, so it failed the engine start sequence, disabling the engine. (Your method of removing and restoring +12V forces the ECU to reset along with all the other modules so that the ECU does know that the engine has been shut down).

A clue to this problem is that you also can't lock the car using the key fob.
Steve found -
When the engine is disabled in this way (at least by this ignition switch lateral movement fault) the doors and boot cannot be locked with the fob for the same reasons that they cannot be locked if the boot lid or doors are actually left open. The locking procedure only works when the ECU relay is off (not powered) but won't work
if the ECU relay is powered when a request to lock the doors is made by the fob. In this case, you will hear a refusal 'peep' from the security horn. Removal of the ignition barrel to free up the igntion switch is done by putting the key in and turning it to position 'I', and then pushing in the little detent pin on top of the outer barrel with a
bent pointed tool. The lock barrel can then be pulled out, exposing the laterally moving part of the ignition switch. Naturally the column shrouding will have to be removed to do this. An alternative method would be to remove the ignition switch itself and free it up or fit a new one."

 

Real quickly without reading your post , does yours have the front hood / bonnet closed switch in the left engagement post going into the receptacle ? Mine does not and I think you would look for 2 wires .

Did you " clock " the reach motor position sensor as when you exit the car the retraction position to full in must be satisfied for the car to go to sleep . You can switch the big knob on the steering column from auto to off to see if that helps .

On the ignition switch the key in key out switch for the SLCU to go into the shutdown / go to sleep sequence is pin 4 to 5 as 5 is a car frame ground . You can push up the car side connector straight up from its mount so you can work easier in your hand . You can spray some lube in the flapper door as sometimes helps . No need to remove the key barrel .

You may have to do a " Hard Reset " with the battery in order to get the SLCU back to Zero state , but there is a concern the stereo will lock out and need the security code to bring back alive for non USA cars .

I will be out for the next several hours at the salvage yards .

 

SO I pulled the negative battery cable for 30 min that did not help. There is no switch for the hood so that can't be it. The picture that you show I am not sure what or where that is. It does not look like the ignition switch and if it was would have no clue on how to remove it. can you point me in the right direction?


ok found the connector on the steering column. if those are the ground can i test to see if they are actually ground. i assume i can check continuity with a multimeter

 

The hard reset involves more the just removing the B + terminal off the battery .

The ignition switch attached to the barrel can be got to by just removing the lower plastic cover on the steering column . Easy and no need to remove the barrel or switch .

 

On the car side of the connector half , look for a good car frame ground on pin 5 and check for clean pins as mine had some corrosion . On the switch side of the connector check for very low resistance between 4 and 5 on the switch half as you remove the key . The other pins 1 , 2 , 3 all go to the same pin 5 as you rotate the key and it gets confusing as some key positions make more then 1 contact at a time . Just verify that each of the 1 , 2 , 3 pins close to pin 5 to make a very low resistance as you rotate the key . The last key starter position is spring loaded so your meter reading will waver .

Your concern today is the 4 to 5 pins .

Ask questions .

 

Here is a new thing. SO I have been moving parts from one parts car that I bought to my car. Moving stuff back and forth I pulled out the passenger seat. Well because I was doing so may thing I left the seat out for a while. Well once I put it in hit the remote....presto. Beats me. I did not see that in any TSB but who would have thunk.

So add that to the weird ones.

 

May have been the seat was in a position in agreement with the seat retracted sensor setting satisfying the SLCU so that it can go to sleep . This may have set the logic in the SLCU back to Zero . PM me if you are interested in selling the extra wire mesh 2 grill inserts . There are some other things on you donor car you want to keep .