Removing PS Transducer
Does PS fluid pour out or trickle out when the transducer is removed?
Do I have to drain before or is a volunteer's thumb enough to hold the fluid back?
I want to remove it to see if it's actually operating.
Do I have to drain before or is a volunteer's thumb enough to hold the fluid back?
I want to remove it to see if it's actually operating.
Did you have to drop the rack to get it out? This is my next step. I rebuilt my power steering pump today and still, little to no power assist at idle.
flat as I can tell from photos online, the transducer valve is just an electromagnetic coil that moves the valve stem in and out.
flat as I can tell from photos online, the transducer valve is just an electromagnetic coil that moves the valve stem in and out.
no, just had to jack the car up a few inches to get my hand and the 2.5mm Allen wrench in. Watch out for the screen to come out.
also mine doesn’t have a/c so I don’t know if the lines are in the way or not.
check the resistance of the transducer b4 pulling it. And check the voltage at the plug with the engine running. My guess is is that if the module fails it burns out the transducer or vice versa.
also mine doesn’t have a/c so I don’t know if the lines are in the way or not.
check the resistance of the transducer b4 pulling it. And check the voltage at the plug with the engine running. My guess is is that if the module fails it burns out the transducer or vice versa.
Last edited by JustSomeGuy; Oct 24, 2025 at 01:21 AM.
Thanks for the tips. I do have low speed power assist until the car warms up. Once it’s at operating temp, I lose the power assist at idle. I’ve swapped out the control unit with a Volvo one to see if it made any difference but it did not. I’ve got a used transducer I bought that is hopefully good but will test the existing one per your recommendation.
It’s supposed to be 7.8 ohms.
the one that didn’t work was 3.3 ohms.
the used one that I put in and works is 6.5.
I’ll be taking the 3.3 apart to see if I can rewind the coil.
also mine doesn’t have a/c so I don’t know if the lines are in the way or not.
the one that didn’t work was 3.3 ohms.
the used one that I put in and works is 6.5.
I’ll be taking the 3.3 apart to see if I can rewind the coil.
also mine doesn’t have a/c so I don’t know if the lines are in the way or not.
Last edited by JustSomeGuy; Oct 24, 2025 at 01:21 AM.
Ah yes. Yours must be RHD with different access on that side. Different story on LHD cars as mine is. I was able to sneak my hand up there to get the plug off. Wires don’t appear broken or degraded… just grimy. Contacts don’t n the plug appear clean as well. I plugged my voltmeter into the plug end and started the car. It settled at about 13 volts and change. This was with the original Jag control unit. Out of curiosity I swapped the Volvo one in and it read lower at the bottom end of 12 volts. I left the car running for 5-10 minutes to try and build up some heat soak to see if that affected any readings. It did not.
Looks like I may have to drop the rack some to try and get better access to the Transducer as my left side engine mount is directly in front of it, making access rather difficult. I might be able to squeeze my hands in there to make connection for an Ohms read.
Looks like I may have to drop the rack some to try and get better access to the Transducer as my left side engine mount is directly in front of it, making access rather difficult. I might be able to squeeze my hands in there to make connection for an Ohms read.
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