My jag recently started shaking really bad and would require a pretty significant amount of gas to even move. I knew the fuel filter had not been replaced since I owned the car so I went ahead and replaced that. The car still shook (though to a much less extent) and would move with a regular amount of throttle. Once up to speed it did not have any issues. I filled the car with gas and its sat for about a month. Today I went out to try to crank it and the battery was dead. I thought I better put some fuel stabilizer in the tank. Right when I opened the gas cap, gas came spewing out from the fuel door.

I was pretty cautious when I put the new fuel filter on but could this be cause from putting it on backwards (I sure hope I am not that stupid)? Could it be caused from pressure change due to change in temperature (it is siting outside for the time being)? any other thoughts?

 

Was the tank full when you opened the cap? I am wondering whether it was a case of heat soak swelling the fuel in a full tank. I have not experienced a fuel filter the wrong way round, but if your car runs at all, I would not imagine it is the culprit.
Could any water have entered the tank?

 

Doubtful it has to do with the fuel filter. There is a check valve in the pump. Once it leaves the tank, it can't come back that way, but must return via the return line, after going through the fuel rail and fuel pressure regulator. If bass-ackwards fuel filter is a problem, the fuel cannot make it past there.

Most likely, an evaporative system gone awry. Careful when you get it running, you don't want to wind up with a collapsed tank as some have. Can't put a quick finger on them, but there are threads here where people have tanks collapsed like a crushed beer can and others who've had them swell up like a dead pig in the sunshine. I think it has to do with the "Rochester Valve?"

 

I do not think it is possible that water entered the tank. The tank was filled with gas before it sat for a month (in the heat) so swelling might be a possibility. I am thinking the Rochester Valve sounds like an easy replacement and worth trying. Now the question becomes where can I get one since it has been discontinued. I know there is the delco part that some have used but it sounds like some people have had issues with the part. Anyone have any thoughts? Could the Rochester valve also be the source of the rough idle/jerking also?

 

My tank cap whooshes alot amount too with a 1/4 tank , will have to see if it's positive or negative . I have the early single Evap canister setup with nothing on the right side . And it is a 96 . Never did locate the rochester valve . Jaguar part no. CBC7714 . If I remember correctly when I replaced my filter there is a flow direction arrow on the filter and the fittings may be different on both ends so it may not be possible to install backwards . Double checking . For Chavid92 , If you release the pressure on the tank then start it does the rough idle begin from the start ( pun intended ) or after the tank has a chance over time to pressurize ? Does it still shake like a coon dog defecating a hay seed ? As to the liquid fuel out of the filler cap that would point to liquid fuel density heat expansion and not a vapor buildup as gasoline does not absorb and release a vapor as much like a carbonated soda can upon releasing the capping ( pun intended ) pressure . The vapor would be on top of the liquid . So you my be chasing something on overfill on the fuel side that is not a problem . Had many wingtips venting liquid fuel on the runway before takeoff as you cram to the volumemetric limit cold fuel on a hot day . Designed to vent this way because we would measure fuel by weight as we put it onboard the aircraft . 9200 pounds in tip tanks . Discussion on the valve and Delco replacement problems below : AC Delco-214-552 , where the lines hooked up correctly in their example ?

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ntinued-81248/

And testing link :

Rochester Valve testing and replacement | Jaguar Clubs of North America

 

Edited previous post .

Also : May be a engine regulation issue with a few sticking fuel injectors know as unresponsive injectors . The pulse length or time of the injectors is at it's shortest at idle unlike at higher RPMs and a few cylinders just ain't gettin it on the low side . A fuel injector cleaner in the tank would be a least intrusive try , but then you have a full tank so you would have to run it down in amount to get a more concentrated cleaning effect . There is a Chevron product ( Techron ) people recommend . Can't hurt as a scheduled maintenance item . Don't know if this will loosen up the slides in the injectors as well or just the nozzle cone pattern . There are also basket filters in the inlet side of each injector the can be replaced as a DIY . The early AJ16 engines have a issue of rough idle and in Jaguar TSB and was resolved in putting a different cam ( 114 degree overlap vs 110 ) that performed better on the idle end . Champion RC12YC are recommended in another TSB . You can bring the spark plug back down to the original 0.035 as a different TSB took them to 0.040 addressing ignition coil heat/service live at the expense of spark performance ( in my opinion ). Someone used these new plugs to overcome his idle issue . E3.48 about 5-6 dollars each .

Spark Plug Combustion Cycle Analysis | E3 Spark Plugs