Hi all I have a happy update on one of the issues.
went to a different gauge and brought a different make thermostat and water temperature sensor for the gauge and guess what I now have a very steady water temperature on the gauge and the engine now warms up a lot faster as in just a few minutes of driving instead of miles of driving. So I happy about that.

but I still do have one more issue that I can not get my head around and that the cooling fans. Here’s the issue-
number 11 fuse in the left hand engine bay box which is a 30Amp and is for the cooling fans slow speed operation keeps popping. Now my car has had the mod and the linkage wire is fitted and the single pressure switch is not present. Now the fans will not fan at all even when the AC is on BUT if I disconnect the radiator temperature switch both fans will run on a high speed for a few seconds then turn off and then a for minutes late back on then off and so on. If I know reconnect the radiator temperature switch the slow speed fuse will pop again. Now with engine off but ignition on I have tried to jump the three wire relay switch which has one black wire and two white wire ( one wire for low fan speed and one for high fan speed) but I can not get the fans to run. I know the fans work cause I can see them running on fast speed when the AC is on. Now this is were my knowledge runs out. With the ignition on and a voltmeter across the number 11 fuse ( low fan speed fuse) there is 12v ( battery voltage) and there is no voltage across fuse 17 ( fast fan speed fuse) which is good but if there is voltage across the slow fan speed fuse why are the fans not turning? Does this sound like a relay or the fans which are at fault?

 

Without removing the fans you can remove the R and put on L connector , this will give limited information

With both fans running it kind of says fans motors OK if from low mode to high but not from zero to high , fan motor starting current too much

Off to dialysis chair at the kidney spa

Fuse 11 and 17 are not low and fast fuses but to each single fan , At least last time I looked

Will discern what goes on inside the relay module

It gives me a spot of stumble under my bonnet

On M' Lady Penelope with the 3 wire switch test I get L only or Both and not low and high speed so this questions if there are 2 different Fan Control Relay modules as the white color

The black module on the V 8 is controlled / wired outside of it differently

 

thank you for that information about the fuses are for left and right fan. That will help figure out some stuff. 👍🏻

 

There was a TSB on upsizing some fuses for whole car

15-16 (jagrepair.com)

You can remove one fuse to prove it only goes to one fan

 

so I can’t increase the fan fuses☹️
I have now removed one fuse at a time but if I remove one one of the fuses both fans fail to do anything?
I will have another go tomorrow, but with the ignition on, as I insert fuse 11 you hear the relay click

 

" so I can’t increase the fan fuses ? "

Not recommended unless you want to visit your pride and joy as a smoking hole in the ground , Wires size are the limiting factor of consideration

Fuses are your friend as in many by now , there are cheap fuses that are not to spec

Editing , there is a 3rd fuse for fan module control

 

point 73 and 74 is as they share the same fuse 11

76 is 17

73 / 11 is definably the right side fan

So I was wrong

 

where is this third fuse for the fan module?

 

Sorry I’m still learning here but can I ask what you mean by point 73, 74 and 76.

thank you 👍🏻

 

There were 2 TSB for fuse blowing, these led to the mod you already have (single pressure switch), but worth a read to tell the thinking behind the mod and they might give you a pointer.
http://www.jagrepair.com/images/TSB/...%20Failure.pdf
http://www.jagrepair.com/images/TSB/...%20Failure.pdf

 

thanks for the links 👍🏻

 

So today I have checked the right hand side fan and the is 12v going to it with the ignition keg turned. Today I have no voltage going across fuse 11 where yesterday I did. The mod has been done on my car. I once again bridged the black wire and one of the white wires on the radiator switch plug and both fans kicked in on high speed but when I bridge to the other white wire I still do not have slow speed on either fan. I reconnected everything and started the engine, with the AC on both fans will kick in every now and then for a few seconds at the fast speed. I have tried to get the engine super hot to see if I can get the water temperature up high enough to trigger both the fans but I just can get do it all I did was have a lot of fun and burnt lots of fuel 😁.
I have a used working relay on its way to me so I will change that and see if the relay has failed. Yesterday I did have power going to fuse 11 and when I was pulling it out and back in again you could hear a relay clicking on then of as I removed it but today there is no power to that fuse and hence the relay is not clicking in and off.

 

" Sorry I’m still learning here but can I ask what you mean by point 73, 74 and 76.

thank you "

It is the points on the pic above that represent a point in the circuit as your fuses

In this case only 2 fuses 11 and 17 and no 3rd as I was wrong

Your going from zero to high is a good thing as both fan motors are good and not blowing the fuse

With the direct command you are giving the fan module ( 3 wire temp switch connector ) and it is not giving slow speed points to the module

With the Mod done on the 2 wire freon pressure switch this should also give low speed at all times even with 3 wire radiator temp switch disconnected

In pulling off the module and testing for resistance between pin X and Y you should see around 30 ohms resistance and not infinite high like a 1000 or so

On mine if you shook the fan module you could hear the water in it

There should be a way to easier read it as the White / Blue pin at the radiator temp switch

I have a spare fan module that I can take a pic of the looking at the module pin map and compare your values

Checking

Gotta fix a window on another car

 

I think the third fuse you are thinking of is the one that operates the relay.

 

thanks Parker 7.
the number 11 fuse will pop eventually if I go from zero to high fan speed to many times. I have a used working relay which you call a module in the post so I hope that this fixes the issue.
thank you so much for all your support 👍🏻

 

is there a third fuse or not? If so do you know where it is. I can’t find it and Parker 7 does not think there is one now.

 

starting many times induces a problem that does not accure as you use it in service

A common thing working with electric motors

So I would disregard that observation

The module is 3 relays inside 1 large module package , about 3 inches tall

 

With the relay module connector removed and reading the module

Pin 6 ( small purple wire ) to pin 7 ( high speed White / Blue command wire )

You have that

Should be the same resistance as pin 6 to 9 ( low speed White command wire )

There are diodes involved so may have to swap meter leads

 

I removed a relay module from car and it rattles so not good sign

looking for the other

looking for camera

 

Do you have same part # ?

The pic off the internet is a AA version

What I have in my hand is a AB version so maybe different ( one or both fans high as my observation vs. both slow or fast like your observation )

These are the pulling coils that close the power relay contacts inside the relay module

Meter time after wake up shower



The bottom pic is spun around / oriented