Applied my funky top coat
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...0287b9da9f.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...ab3c18e60b.jpg |
Looking good, Dfieldsend.
I renewed drive belts on one of the 96's today. Some different from my '95. 10mm socket on the a/c belt idler pulley vs. 13 mm on my '95. 14mm outboard nut on the Alt. tensioning rod vs. 13 on the 95. I "think" inboard was also 14mm...but it was a semi-blind fit in a tight space and I found the 9/16" open-end more to my liking for tensioning. I was referring to my post of some time ago as I prepared for the task: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...lt-how-102387/ maybe I just improperly remembered the socket sizes between when I did the 95 and when I made the post. I've made a note to obtain a set of "shorty" open-end wrenches before I do that task again. |
what did I do today?
phoned my mechanic Mark and booked the XJR in. It is intermittently missing, going from normal to reduced power and hesitating. I suspect a coil, but could be a fuel issue. (If it was an old carburettor car I'd pick a partial fuel blockage - that's what it feels like). I have 3 new correct Made in Japan coils I bought a year ago as spares, as the price was good (a forum member). the car is about 1500 km overdue an oil and filter, I have a new intercooler water pump, but I am waiting the Bosch wiring plug's arrival (the vendor didnt send it with the pump, despite clearly showing the plug in the photo on the internet advert). If the wire/plug turn up on time, I'll get the pump changed too. I am waiting for Powerhouse UK to make a new batch of 10% larger supercharger crank drive pulleys. ... and this is the reason I have a second X300, the 3.2 Daimler. It's moments like these. |
Brought home a "new" log splitter. No more swinging a maul!
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...308e674319.jpg 20-ton log splitter? Yes, please. |
MGB, my XJR has done sterling tow service too. 60 mph up steep long hills with 3 big teenage passengers and 2 sailing dinghies on a trailer
Today, with the XJR sidelined and going for a service tomorrow, I used my 3.2 Daimler What a car! I haven't driven it properly for 3 months or so, and it astounded me . it is so good. Soft, supple ride, firm suspension after total rebuild of bushes 2 years ago. Slower off the mark at lights, but once doing 60km/h or more, it sings. At one point I was surprised I was doing 120 km/h. It felt like 90. So composed and unruffled. On 16 inch 60 profile tyres. I still love it. I need to own a V12 at some point in my life for the final comparison. But I suspect the humble 3.2, once of the mark, is as sweet as it comes. It revs so freely compared to the bigger XJR motor. It has Andy's bracket and a pod filter. I think it would be even better if I lengthened the intake between pod and AFM - my filter is clamped straight on to the AFM, and given my recent experience with lengthening the XJR's pipe from pod to AFM, it would be worth it. A longer tract seems to smoothe the airflow hitting the AFM giving better power and responsiveness |
3 Attachment(s)
After almost two years, I finally got around to repairing and replacing the tweeter speaker covers for the rear door armrests. The LH side has been completely off/out the whole time, and the RH side was just glued in and as such sort of "floated" loosely attached to the skin of the vinyl armrest.
It seems that most of these covers fail at some point where the clips break off due to time and stress and then the covers and sometimes even tweeters themselves disappear. I've seen many of these obviously glued back in, so often that I suspect dealers even did it when they couldn't get parts anymore or knew it was pointless as the clips would soon break again even on new ones. But I recently found a tan pair on a wrecked XJ12 that had all the clips in place except one, so I repaired and reinforced them all with epoxy and aluminum, then painted them to closely match the Nimbus Grey interior. Time will tell if my reinforcing aluminum strips will hold up, but they definitely seem stronger. And my back seat gets used so seldom that I'm hoping they won't be subjected to much stress from hands/arms either. It definitely puts the finishing touch on the rear compartment to not have a gaping black hole in the armrest :) It's a minor win, but one that addresses an issue that's bothered me for quite a while! . |
Took off my winter tyred wheels and replaced them with the old Pirelli's. I was a little surprised at the wear patterns on them. New tires and tracking on the near horizon!
|
I just installed a rear sway bar, OMG big difference. I used PowerFlex bushings too. The car feels like it was supposed to! Now with H&R springs & Koni shocks this car is amazing to drive. All I need to do now is replace the lower fulcrum bushings and v-mounts and this car is as good as new if not better all around. I also have a spare bracket for an '08- rear sway bar addition, it works on the 95-97 too if you swap out the rear diff studs to the smaller type from an X308.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...7bc84fb289.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...7981d360d2.jpg |
Champion ousts NGK
New sparks today. Champion.
I used a screwdriver handle on the socket so as not to over tighten them. Too much leverage on the ratchet bar to trust myself with it. What does it mean if the porcilin part has burn marks on the outside near the base, as if gasses were escaping past the metal section to the outside? They were all like this but a nice gray tan colour on the electrode so all seem to be firing well. PS Actually my plugs were burned just like the ones in this thread; http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=395642 It seems the plugs were actually leaking compression. So now they are new the car should go better. |
If you're tightening them with a screwdriver handle then "yes" gasses would escape along with compression. The spark plug has a "crush" washer on the end, use a torque wrench and set it appropriately if you don't trust yourself with a normal ratchet but DON"t leave them under thight.
|
Originally Posted by JTsmks
(Post 1457010)
If you're tightening them with a screwdriver handle then "yes" gasses would escape along with compression. The spark plug has a "crush" washer on the end, use a torque wrench and set it appropriately if you don't trust yourself with a normal ratchet but DON"t leave them under tight.
|
Changed the oil but this time without jacking it up. Just sitting normal on the garage floor. First time I got all 8.5 quarts to drain. Valvoline MaxLife 10w40 and NAPA Gold filter.
|
the 3.2 - washed it today, then later a quick wax of bonnet, boot, roof (ran out of daylight to do more)
did 100mph yest the XJR is at the mechanic's. Has had an oil and filter, but now on the backburner for a few days while he does a couple of urgent jobs - hopefully back later this week with the new Bosch intercooler pump fitted, and the rough running sorted (hopefully my spare, new generic MAF will sort this). Waiting for Powerhouse UK to make some new 10% larger S/C crank pulleys... |
Originally Posted by wayland
(Post 1456932)
PS Actually my plugs were burned just like the ones in this thread;
Spark Plug Diagnosis - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums |
Wing and 1st coat on bonnet - needs a sand, 2>3 more coats and a lacquer, but you get the idea.
|
Originally Posted by aholbro1
(Post 1457185)
I think the BImmer guys are full of crap and you are looking at corona stain. That's why you should never drink while changing your sparks...it stains the plugs.:icon_gunhead:
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...6ed37491e2.png https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...8115d90f0b.jpg All six look like this. Is this normal. I changed them for Champion. |
I found it on the internet, so it MUST be true!
Exercise due caution if you click the urban dictionary link in these results: https://www.google.com/search?sclien...=Google+Search Picture look familiar? PLUG STUDIO / NGK |
If your spark plugs are leaking compression, you would know because the ignition coils on those plugs would be destroyed from the leaking gases.
|
It sounds like we need to chill about the Corona stain, and perhaps drink one instead :)
|
Hi does anyone know where i can get an xj6r m90 charger from, or do one of you have one for sale or want to part with one 😆 thanks
|
....that came out of left field!
Originally Posted by josh lee
(Post 1459773)
Hi does anyone know where i can get an xj6r m90 charger from, or do one of you have one for sale or want to part with one 😆 thanks
What a random post for this thread..... :rolleyes: Josh, you will likely have better luck starting a new thread if you need some help with your SC or finding a replacement, assuming that is what you are looking to do. If you have a specific question about the SC for your car, or similar, it helps if you tell us a little about your car and situation, and include the basics of your car in your signature so everyone knows the context. If you are simply looking to buy an X300 M90, I'd suggest posting a "WTB" (Wanted To Buy) post in the private classifieds section. They pop up on eBay every so often too. Good luck :) . |
Originally Posted by pauljag
(Post 1436197)
Had a issue with over-idling on the XJ6 and it after a bit of head scratching , we decided to look at the throttle body and this was sticking , so dismantle clean and re-fit and all is well now at around 900rpm but thinking of replacing all six ignition coils next ... Pauljag ...
|
Pauljag,
I need a new headlining in my XJR where did you buy it from, somewhere in Australia? was there a fitting guide you used, or just make it up as you went? thanks |
Well, didn't do anything to or for my car today, but the family drove up to North Hills, Raleigh for the annual MG club's "British Car Show".
I'd estimate there were about 50 cars there, MGs, Triumphs, Morgans, Lotus, even a Mclaren and a couple TVRs... and about 7 Jaguars. There were a couple XJ40s from the early 90s that actually looked very nice, one was a VDP. There was a 1976 XJ12C (coupe) which I had never seen in person before, so that was neat. And there was one BRG X308 XJR and two E types, one coupe one convertible. Since the MG club was the main sponsor, it wasn't surprising that by far the largest contingent was for the small sports cars like MGs and Triumphs. . |
Originally Posted by AL NZ
(Post 1461808)
Pauljag,
I need a new headlining in my XJR where did you buy it from, somewhere in Australia? was there a fitting guide you used, or just make it up as you went? thanks |
Last month,
Replaced driveshaft carrier bearing. Replaced exhaust doughnuts at the manifolds to stop that leak. Welded up the cracked exhaust pipes,seam crack and crack next to the oxygen sensor. Had the rear cats removed as they were rattling and had test pipes welded in place. When I first bought the car not running I had to replace the fuel rail and injectors,I had a injector O ring not seated when I started the car up and it heated up one of the down pipes red hot,which is what I think blew the exhaust doughnut and cracked the pipe. Gas mileage went up 2 miles to the gallon and the car no longer sounds like a tank. |
Not a lot.... I've been planning on removing my intake tract for two weekends straight so I could clean my sticky throttle body, but it rained solid last weekend, and this long Memorial Day weekend looked promising but we had a tropical storm roll in Saturday afternoon. So far Sunday has been on-and-off heavy rain.
But during one of the interludes I did finally fix the oddball rattle I've had above the drivers window frame ever since I bought the car. I would have attacked it before, but it would do it for a bit, then go away for weeks or month or more and I'd just forget about it. It would roll clackity clack forward on braking, and roll clackity clack backward upon accelerating :icon_really: I pulled back the edge finisher and ceiling edge trim to find one of the "Christmas Tree" rivets that holds the trim on had somehow backed out and come loose and was occasionally rolling back and forth. I suspect it was this way forever from new as I can't imagine how it could come out. And it's no surprise it was intermittent as that rivet isn't exactly round and there isn't a lot of room behind that trim! I bet it got hung up most of the time, then would come loose for a few days. I was very glad to see this was this simple problem as I was worried it was something inside the steel frame itself which might have proven impossible to get to. A very minor "win" but something seemingly simple that I sort of dreaded looking into as I suspected it may be "unfixable" or I'd break all the trim getting to it :rolleyes: I also was able to confirm that for a car (USA) not equipped with a heated windscreen, the harness is not fitted. I pulled back the RH kick panel where the relay and harness would be, and it is absent. . |
Originally Posted by al_roethlisberger
(Post 1471435)
Not a lot.... I've been planning on removing my intake tract for two weekends straight so I could clean my sticky throttle body, but it rained solid last weekend, and this long Memorial Day weekend looked promising but we had a tropical storm roll in Saturday afternoon. So far Sunday has been on-and-off heavy rain.
But during one of the interludes I did finally fix the oddball rattle I've had above the drivers window frame ever since I bought the car. I would have attacked it before, but it would do it for a bit, then go away for weeks or month or more and I'd just forget about it. It would roll clackity clack forward on braking, and roll clackity clack backward upon accelerating :icon_really: I pulled back the edge finisher and ceiling edge trim to find one of the "Christmas Tree" rivets that holds the trim on had somehow backed out and come loose and was occasionally rolling back and forth. I suspect it was this way forever from new as I can't imagine how it could come out. And it's no surprise it was intermittent as that rivet isn't exactly round and there isn't a lot of room behind that trim! I bet it got hung up most of the time, then would come loose for a few days. I was very glad to see this was this simple problem as I was worried it was something inside the steel frame itself which might have proven impossible to get to. A very minor "win" but something seemingly simple that I sort of dreaded looking into as I suspected it may be "unfixable" or I'd break all the trim getting to it :rolleyes: I also was able to confirm that for a car (USA) not equipped with a heated windscreen, the harness is not fitted. I pulled back the RH kick panel where the relay and harness would be, and it is absent. . |
Replaced all the coolant hoses. Scraping the plaque from the aluminum fittings was the biggest inconvenience. Lost total count but twenty-three is pretty close to the final hose clamp tally. The heater pump assembly is a thing of beauty. Did it on the bench.
Called Welsh for the complete set and had them in three days for only 10% more than I was quoted for just the lower at another supplier. |
Those two in the heater matrix with the funky joint consume over half the cost of the the entire set! (One from the head and it mates to the 4-ended one with an o-ring) both way more than the lower hose with all the molded takeouts and such on it. $200 car has a leak in the 4-way hose, so I'll probably fit the one pre-emptively removed from the other 96 when I replaced all hoses as part of mending a failed T-stat. But if it springs a leak...I may well construct a matrix of PVC pipe and affix it to the bulkhead, barb-fittings to allow a common heater hose from the head without the special fitting on one end.
|
Originally Posted by aholbro1
(Post 1471604)
Those two in the heater matrix with the funky joint consume over half the cost of the the entire set! (One from the head and it mates to the 4-ended one with an o-ring).
|
I got by for $292.58 including thermostat, but had to spread the sourcing: Rock, Amazon, O'Reilly's and what I've labeled "Other" in a spreadsheet - but I know it was an internet shop, just can't come up with the name.
|
Rattle was overhead, not in door. Sorry no photos, too quick a fix.
1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by aacpa15215
(Post 1471510)
I have a rattle on my passenger side door. Could you kindly post any pictures if you have, how you fixed it. Thanks.
Hi, sorry no photos. This rattle was not in the door. It was in the roof frame over the drivers (LHD) door. Very simple fix though. Pull away velour door edge finisher (part 8 in the diagram below), then pull overhead headliner trim (part 1 in the diagram below) edge away. This is the trim along the edge of the headliner that the overhead grab handles bolt into above the passenger and rear doors. Over the drivers door there is no handle with bolts to hold the trim, so this trim over the drivers door is held on via "Christmas Tree" rivets. One of my "Christmas Tree" rivets was rolling around loose overhead behind that trim along the edge of the headliner. Popped the rivet back into its slot in the back of the trim, then pushed the trim back on with the errant rivet pushed into its receiver. Problem solved :) The trim removed and behind which was the rattle is the part labelled "1" in the illustration below. |
Replaced the two gray plastic rear door window switchpack bezel/surrounds with the 1995 XJR dark birdseye maple bezels/surrounds.
Finding a set was the hard part, and I'm still looking for the front door pair, but installation takes about five minutes per side. As most know for some reason Jaguar only used the birdseye maple wood door switchpack bezels/surrounds in 1995 for the X300, then went to color matched plastic in 1996 and 1997 for the birdseye maple trimmed XJRs. For the XJRs that had the standard burl walnut, the switch bezels/surrounds continued to be wood. I also installed the chrome B pillar trim rings that surrounds the shoulder belt height adjuster as found on the XJ12 and I suspect also VDP trimmed cars. I don't think standard XJ6 and XJR cars came with this trim, at least my 1997 did not. More info here: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...e-trim-142614/ I also tested the Alpine KCA-801B between my stock head unit and CD player to see if using a couple Ai-Net to M-Bus converter cables would have it work as designed, and it worked perfectly. The CD changer continued to play and be controlled by the head unit perfectly while the KCA-801B was in-line, then when 12V (I think 5V is sufficient to trigger as I recall) was applied to the trigger it cleanly switched to its auxiliary port input from my phone and the head unit continued to believe the CD was attached and actually continued to play/control the CD just without the CD audio. The only trick is that the CD changer must be loaded and playing CDs or the head unit will assume there is "no disc" and will cut off the audio. So to use the KCA-801B you will have to keep your CD changer loaded with discs while you inject audio from your new auxiliary input. This was just a rough test, so I'd still need to figure out how I'll add a Bluetooth adapter in the trunk and also trigger the 5-12V from the cabin. But I've got PAC TR-4 signal sensing switch I may try, or I may use the telephone cable in the console to switch 5-12V to the KCA-801B. Once I have that figured out and have a more polished install I'll post a detailed how-to thread. Alpine KCA-801B Audio Input Adapter for Ai-Net System at Crutchfield.com The KCA-801B isn't available new anymore, but they pop up on eBay regularly use and NOS for about $30. The KCA-801B is fitted with two female Ai-Net inputs, and its L/R RCA input. It also comes with one male/male Ai-Net cable. For an install with an existing Ai-Net CD changer, you would simply unplug the vehicle head unit male Ai-Net cable from CD changer and plug it into the KCA-801B then use the included male/male Ai-Net to connect the KCA-801B to the CD changer (or vice versa, depending on if the head unit Ai-Net cable or CD changer cable is male or female, such as in an X308). With our X300 M-Bus Alpine changer, you'll need two Ai-Net to M-Bus cable adapter/converters. The first cable you'll need is to go from the KCA-801B's female Ai-Net port to the male M-Bus cable from the CD changer. The only place I could find this cable was the following: ALP/Ai-F Alpine Dual Bus Changer to M-BUS Radio installation cable :: CD Changers :: Car Stereos and components The second cable you need connects to the male/male Ai-Net cable that comes with the KCA-801B so that you can connect to the female M-Bus cable from the head unit. This converter cable is an Alpine cable that is readily available. It is a KCA-130B which is male M-Bus and female Ai-Net. String them together in the following arrangement, then figure out what you want to connect to the auxiliary ports and how you want to trigger the 5-12V switch and you are good to go. Head unit M-Bus female cable -> KCA-130B Male M-Bus/Female Ai-Net Cable -> KCA-801B Male/Male Ai-Net Cable -> KCA-801B Output Ai-Net female port -> [KCA-801B] -> KCA-801B Input Ai-Net female port-> ALP-Ai-F Male Ai-net/Female M-Bus cable -> CD changer male M-Bus cable . |
Somebody shoot me!
Just "completed" fuel pump renewal on the black 96. Really sweet job - took some extra time and lock wired the worm-gear hose clamp to the pump as insurance against hose blow-off. Renewed the fuel filter as well. Put a gallon of petrol back in and had the lad turn to pos II, then crank it while I rested a finger on the relay. "Click" goodness.... but no light off. Checked below decks for leaks, none. "Well, maybe it holds a gallon or so unusable?" After all, I disconnected lines and pulled it out all while staying dry, then dumped 2 1/2 gallons out the filler pipe. So, started transferring from the 2 gal fuel can I'd filled during yesterday's siphon operation. Maybe a half gallon into that, I reminded myself that I'd failed to connect the wire harness to the evaporative flange..... No! Not the easy one in the boot..... the one from the pump to the flange INSIDE the tank!!!
I had to break and come in for dinner.... well, on my redo this evening I can surely skip the first step: "Depressurize the fuel system!" Edit: Well... however unnecessary it should have been, it was easier and faster the second time in one day.... |
Got a complete engine bay and underside of the car detailed. 18 years of gunk and oil caked mud completely cleaned. I had a bad odor as soon as the engine warmed up, which is gone.
Next, a good tune up. |
I'm getting my XJ6's original shocks and struts replaced. Also the fuel filter.
|
fixed the door cable linkage and cleaned out the panels and the window remote control today! I think ill wash her later today! She deserved it you know because the suffer of the lumpy door for atleast a week.
|
Not exactly all today, but progress is being made inc. new fuel hoses and pressure regulator (and yet more shinny bits)
|
Washed it, polished wheels, inc. spare. Checked fluids, battery, tire pressure. Finally got a chance to clean up the interior, carpets, replaced a few missing dash screws. "Custom fitted" a pair of old Acura front floor mats. Added a large digit clock right over the original with some velcro. Very easy to read and less than 7.00. Polished up the tail pipe tips with Simichrome. Looking good. Been back from Washington a week. Taking off tomorrow for the Santa Rosa area.
|
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:54 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands