What is, or is there a testing procedure
for the trunk-lock actuator. Mine doesn't seem to function from any electronic switch or remote. Could they all be gone out and the actuator is fine? It doesn't seem likely. I'm thinking there's a resistance rating somewhere. Help is appreciated
The trunk-lock actuator should test between 20-30ohms. Mine tested at 4.65ohms so it's going to have to be replaced. If anybody has one let me know. I also remover the trunk-ajar sensor which was remaining on when running.Sensor removed and the alert light is out. Although the sensor is functioning properly there appeared to be a missing spacer (like a nipple that filled the 1/8" gap between the lock trigger and switch. This also turned out to be the reason for the malfunctioning central locking system. With the malfunctioning trunk-ajar sensor removed the remote locking system is now fully functional.
Hope this helps somebody.
Hope this helps somebody.
Check if you have power on the actuator, take carpet of the trunk lid, unplug actuator, hookup test light and push the button on the dash or trunk lid. If you have the power, connect + / - to the actuator and see if its works
with one that tested at 22ohms. Trunk now unlocks from the remote and interior switch. The little buttom thingy on the trunk isn't functioning but i'm pretty much satisfied since i'm no longer worried about locking the keys in the trunk.
Thanks guys for your suggestions
Thanks guys for your suggestions
My wife hates the PANIC alarm, now i can't stop playing with it.
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