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What is, or is there a testing procedure

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Old 11-13-2011, 08:07 PM
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Default What is, or is there a testing procedure

for the trunk-lock actuator. Mine doesn't seem to function from any electronic switch or remote. Could they all be gone out and the actuator is fine? It doesn't seem likely. I'm thinking there's a resistance rating somewhere. Help is appreciated
 
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Old 11-13-2011, 08:35 PM
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The first test in this case should be inspection of the wires where they bend at the trunk lid hinge.


Cheers
DD
 
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Old 11-14-2011, 01:14 PM
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Default I found the info i was looking for.

The trunk-lock actuator should test between 20-30ohms. Mine tested at 4.65ohms so it's going to have to be replaced. If anybody has one let me know. I also remover the trunk-ajar sensor which was remaining on when running.Sensor removed and the alert light is out. Although the sensor is functioning properly there appeared to be a missing spacer (like a nipple that filled the 1/8" gap between the lock trigger and switch. This also turned out to be the reason for the malfunctioning central locking system. With the malfunctioning trunk-ajar sensor removed the remote locking system is now fully functional.

Hope this helps somebody.
 
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Old 11-17-2011, 09:39 PM
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Check if you have power on the actuator, take carpet of the trunk lid, unplug actuator, hookup test light and push the button on the dash or trunk lid. If you have the power, connect + / - to the actuator and see if its works
 
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Old 11-17-2011, 10:14 PM
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like Doug already said it is a very common issue for the wires to break in the harness where the trunk lid hinge bends and attaches at the body. save your time and go there first
 
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Old 11-18-2011, 12:45 PM
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Default I replaced the actuator

with one that tested at 22ohms. Trunk now unlocks from the remote and interior switch. The little buttom thingy on the trunk isn't functioning but i'm pretty much satisfied since i'm no longer worried about locking the keys in the trunk.

Thanks guys for your suggestions
 
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Old 11-20-2011, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Doug
The first test in this case should be inspection of the wires where they bend at the trunk lid hinge.


Cheers
DD
The other night i noticed my trunk lights came on when the lid was 3/4 closed. I decided to look into the wiring as you suggested. The other issues i worked out apparently were the only wires connected. There were only 3 wires in the cluster that weren't cracked. Most were broken and hanging together by the rubber coating. I did a total cut-n-splice job and am happy to report that everything works perfectly.

My wife hates the PANIC alarm, now i can't stop playing with it.
 
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