Hello to everyone who reads this post.

I am having a big problem with my wiper. Last week the wiper start to move slowly and soon stopped completely. I suspect the wiper motor, but i can feel that the motor is getting warm when I turn on the wiper.

An other suspicion is the linkage has gone bad and need to be replaced. Anyways I am trying to remove the motor/linkage, but I find it hard to remove it. I removed the wiper blade, removed the plastic paravane, removed 3 bolts from the plastic casing where the motor/linkage is attached to.

Now I try to remove it but unfortunately there is not much play. Its like the underside is still stuck or I need to remove/screw something else but I have absolutely no room for my hands to go down there.

I went to two local jaguar dealers and asked them for advice, but they have no clue how to remove it. One guy said he removed it once but forgot how to do it.

I have found some posts here on the forum about the subject but this didnt help me. I added a photo from the plastic casing and marked the plastic pieces I believe are stuck

Can anyone help me with some advice?

Thanks in advance!

Maraud

 

The fixings you have highlighted are a sliding fit (or they were when they were new). They will be rusted and hard to move.

The attached pictures show them close up. Spray liberally with PlusGas or other dismantling fluid and leave to soak. Start to work the fixings left and right to release them. You will likely need to use a long screwdriver and a hammer to tap them back and forward.

Ultimately, in the fixing shown the L shaped tab needs to pull to the left and release the pin (slot head fixing in picture) which stays on the bulkhead.

Hope that makes sense.

 

Since you're taking it apart, it's a good idea to go ahead and "Rebuild" the motor even if it is just the linkage as you suspect (which makes complete sense if the motor is getting warm). Rebuilding simply consists of cleaning and replacing the electric motor brushes (Easy swap). The inside of the motor looks like this when disassembled (2 screws).



And the brushes/holder is this unit:



Standard electric drill motor brushes are the correct size (can be easily filed down if a bit too large). Just be sure to get brushes that have a wire preinstalled as soldering to carbon is near impossible for the average person.


General Instructions:

 

You have both helped me so much with your information! Awesome!

Today I removed the plastic casing, without your help I could not achieve this because you can not see the lower fixings from above.

In my case the fixings are rusted and took me a while to find something suitable to work with and get under the plastic. A screwdriver just doesnt work, no room! I took a long metal shaft with a small hook at both ends, worked it under the plastic casing on the fixing, and tapped with a hamer on the other side of the metal shaft till they become lose. The middle fixing was the worst one since you have no visibility.

To get the plastic including the linkage and motor out of the frame is also nearly impossible. I do not understand why they just made this 5 mm wider and with easier fixings.

Anyways, I have done research now everything is out of the car and the linkage wasnt gone bad, its the motor itself.
The shaft inside has play, the ball bearing needs to be replaced because the edges are getting pulled and touched by the magnets.

I add some pictures from the job!

Cheers!

 

Glad you got it out and have diagnosed the problem.

For future reference you can get a little bit more room there by jacking the car and supporting under the jacking points just enough to get the front wheels off the ground. That will mean the front subframe and therefore the engine drops just a little.

 

Those fixing clips are sure to be a candidate for a trip to the blast cabinet and some long-term lubrication.

 

And a finished job! I am happy I do not have to worry about rainy scary driving conditions. Thats all what matters, keep it safe on the road!

*side note: Also one of the relays in front of engine bay for the wiper function (on/off) measured a lower resistance then the other, so I also replaced this one to be sure. Now eveything is in place again, the wiper never has gone so smooth before!

 

THanks for your posts and the pictures showing the bulkhead after you removed the The wiper motor assembly..........
I am curious how you managed to get it out given the very tight space.
It looks like there is very little play.
I dont have the rust problem with those 3 clips since I live in Texas.

Any extra hints or help you can give me......... I would be most greatfull

My problem is in the linkage............ not the actual motor.

What was your exact problem?

BigBossRadio in Dallas

 

Hi Guys
That is very to remove........ I checked the linkage it seems to work ok........

So I just may need a new motor...
Thanks for all your help

 

Hi guys
I managed to locate a complete assembly including motor. So I went ahead and swapped out the old one and everything is working now. I suspect my old motor was the problem and perhaps can be rebuilt by changing out the motor magnets if I can source them as pointed out above.
Jacking up the car helped.

If anyone needs any help just drop me a line
Again thanks everyone

 

Hi
Just wondering if you might have any ideas where I might source the magnets?
Thanks
BigBossRadio

 

Hi BigBoss

Are you sure you mean magnets? I've never heard of magnets in a motor going bad.

Perhaps you are referring to the motor brushes? If it's the brushes, then check out spares suppliers for power tools. You just need to match up on size. You can usually get stuff like that on ebay if you don't have a local supplier.

BTW, I don't think you mentioned what your symptoms were that led you to replace the unit.

 

Thanks for your quick reply

Yes you are correct my mistake of course I mean brushes............

The motor worked if I raised the wiper blade....... everything worked but when I placed the wiper blade against the windscreen..... it would not work.... First I thought it was the arm that was failing......... but now I think its the motor.........

 

Same problem her in Kentucky Big Boss , I'll be pulling from a parts car I purchased in December so I have to do it twice , after pulling the top bolts and pushing the sliders over are there any other fasteners to contend with ? I take it I'm in for a wrestling match to pull the linkages an motor .

 

this just popped into my head , may be stupid but here goes .....
could the motor be rebuilt on the car? Anyone try this....?

 

Just a quickie but I have had this before and dribbled some WD-40 down the wiper spindle to casing (wiper arm off first)....you know the bit you can see from the outside, this can corrode and seize the wiper arm 'spindle' causing motor failure,wow this is difficult to write but easy to do....also works on Land Rover Disco's and Rangies!

 

Maraud; we share a lot of the same common issues on our cars.. Now it's my turn to deal with this.


I was out driving in the rain, and suddenly the wiper went slowly back and forth and than stopped dead in the center of the windscreen. I know there are some tuners out there who pay for that kind of look, but I need a functional wiper. So I fear I have to do this horrible looking job this weekend. Thanks for all the valuable information and the nice photos

 

To get the bottom 3 clips I fashioned a hooked thick coat hanger with a vice grip on the free end . Used a thin wire from the other side and hooked into the thicker hook to draw the thicker hook into position . This served as a sling hammer to break the clips loose . I don't think you have a chance without getting some grease on the clips to help get them free . Using a stick with some heavy grease on it you can place some on the area or interest and let it wick out over a couple of days into the engagement . If you break the clips loops by trying too hard that would be bad . Got to retire today . Motor brushes were fine but the assembly outside the motor is I believe missing a piece as I try to put it together so I'm going to need some help . Thought I saved all the pieces . My wipers were fine so I took it all apart anyway while I had it off . Tcasmarcus , you might try removing the park relay before digging into the wiper assembly mechanicals for it may be trying to park it for whatever reason . You can run it with this relay removed but it just won't go to the park position when switched off . This test the motor , but not it's control into park . ( double checking circuit ) Nevermind , I'm wrong

 

Stupid question : if I want to repair the motor itself.. do I really need to take out the whole plastic thingy, or can I simply remove that metallic black motor part and examine it's interior? 🤔

 

Not a stupid question but a smart shortcut to the issue , I will have to look at the unit after away errands . If I remember it is the long bolts that go through the motor cap . On reassembly the motor is not clocked as it goes through 360 degrees . Your solution may be to free up and lubricate the ball joints in the articulating arms inside the plastic . You can hardwire or jumper the motor and bypass all the controls and suspected damaged wires during your Exhaust repairs , but is a high current connection to the motor connector ..