XJ XJ6 / XJR6 ( X300 ) 1995-1997

XJ6 95-97 CLOCK Please Read

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Old May 2, 2008 | 05:59 PM
  #1  
clubmia85's Avatar
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Default XJ6 95-97 CLOCK Please Read

I am looking for a brand new clock, or a remanufactured one, do not want a used one because it will go out. If anyone knows of one, or who is selling one for a good price please let me know.
Thank you!
 
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Old May 5, 2008 | 11:37 AM
  #2  
ken@britishparts.com's Avatar
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Default RE: XJ6 95-97 CLOCK Please Read

The face plate losing contact and makes them impossible to read. You can shim the one you have with a business card to force the contacts tighter and it will work.
 
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Old May 7, 2008 | 07:58 AM
  #3  
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Default RE: XJ6 95-97 CLOCK Please Read

Ken-

I was wondering if you could elaborate a little on how exactly to shim the clock with a busisness card, it would really help, thank you very much
-James
 
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Old May 19, 2008 | 08:19 PM
  #7  
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Default RE: XJ6 95-97 CLOCK Please Read

Clock modules occasionally suffer from faint displays, caused by bad contacts
between a circuit board and flexible ribbon cable inside the unit. It is
possible to make a repair, though some may consider it to be a less than
professional fix!

Access can be gained following the instructions in section 10.1. Remove the
connector at the rear of the clock unit itself, undo the four screws attaching
it to the rest of the assembly and then take it to a bench area for further
work.

The unit itself is opened by undoing the small screws at the rear and releasing
the plastic tabs. Whilst the unit is open, take care not to lose any of the
small components in there. Release the LCD panel itself by carefully spreading
the black tabs holding it into the white plastic bracket. The panel is attached
to the main circuit board by a ribbon cable, and it is the connection at the
circuit board end that is the problem.

Tape the ribbon cable in place and use a business card or piece of pizza box (
both have been successfully deployed! ) to put pressure on the ribbon cable
where it connects to the pcb, behind the white plastic bracket.

Take the unit to the car in plug it in. Use the time set buttons to cycle
through all the digits to make sure the fix is complete before reassembly. If
segments are still missing or faint, additional pressure may be needed on the
ribbon cable.

When all is working, reassemble the clock unit and then refit into the centre
console. Attach the cable and take care not to stress any other wires as you fit
the console back into position.







 
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Old May 19, 2008 | 08:20 PM
  #8  
JagtechOhio's Avatar
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Default RE: XJ6 95-97 CLOCK Please Read

You can find it through JagLovers, and it hasn't worked for me in several attempts on several different clocks.
 
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Old May 19, 2008 | 08:26 PM
  #9  
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Default RE: XJ6 95-97 CLOCK Please Read

this is from jaglovers
 
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Old May 19, 2008 | 08:32 PM
  #10  
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Default RE: XJ6 95-97 CLOCK Please Read

Sorry, wasn't trying to jump your stuff. Your post wasn't done cooking when I typed mine. Thanks for saving them the research, but I still have my skepticism of the effectiveness.
 
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Old May 19, 2008 | 08:35 PM
  #11  
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Default RE: XJ6 95-97 CLOCK Please Read

lol
no problem
 
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Old May 29, 2008 | 02:41 PM
  #13  
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Default RE: XJ6 95-97 CLOCK Please Read

Hi everyone. Im an electronics engineer in the UK and a Jag owner. If someone wants to send me their clock(nothing guaranteed) I'll have a look and see if it can be repaired and post results. Usually LCD's fading are caused quite often by the bulbs back lighting them causing too much heat. These man be replaced by white LEDs.
PM me.
Dave
 
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Old May 2, 2009 | 04:01 PM
  #15  
JagtechOhio's Avatar
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THANK YOU! I'll be sending them one to see how it goes. That will be a great resource if they can get the job done, and I appreciate you posting it.
 
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Old May 14, 2009 | 07:27 AM
  #17  
Mac.XJS.Florida's Avatar
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I did the shim repair for my 96 VDP with a bit of closed cell foam and got poor results, I did it again with a bit of thin wall corrugated cardboard as I would expect a pizza box to be and it worked like a charm. 6 months later and the digits are still showing perfectly. I guess you just have to use the right material, both thickness and compressibility.
 
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Old May 14, 2009 | 09:26 AM
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The whole issue is about the ribbon making solid connection with the board. The flaw in the design still exists even if you use the cardboard/shim method or reaffix the ribbon. Those two bulbs located right under the ribbon get too hot. I have looked at a total of 8 to date. I understand that is in no way a broad enough sampling, but every single one had brown marks on the ribbon from the bulbs. Every one had heat damage that lead to the ribbon becoming loose from the board.

The way to repair the root of the problem is to replace the hot bulbs with LEDs. They are brighter and the additional glow may not appeal to some purists, but it does solve the problem and prevent further degrade of the ribbon.

I read an article, it was either here or JL or MotorcarsLTD or who knows, but it talked about an adhesive that was intended just for this purpose. I cannot imagine which adhesive would not interfere with the conductivity, but apparently there is one.

We really ought to be able to put our heads together and come up with something better than a "pizza box" fix.

Peace!
Jack
 
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Old May 16, 2009 | 05:45 AM
  #20  
Mac.XJS.Florida's Avatar
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Do you know the 3M part number, or name for the adhesive? I never liked the pizza box solution for any reason other than it worked. Leave it to 3M to come up with a brilliant product like this. (I did not notice any discoloration of the the ribbon on my 96 VDP. Perhaps it is routed slightly different. I will have to look at how close it is to the bulbs if I can get the adhesive and redo the affair.)
 
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