Hi All,

Okay, so here's the problem:

I purchased a 2001 XJ8L with 78,000+ Miles, through a Florida Mechanic on a well-known website. The car left Florida, on a Transport Truck, with 78,048 miles... and the car arrived here in Arizona on December 18th, 2015 with 78,114 miles (Bill Of Lading showed BLANK in Departure Mileage entry location).

The car started-up coming off the Transport Truck... and drove into my driveway (okay... no problems yet).

I pulled the car forward in the driveway and back into my covered carport three times... while I was cleaning the car thoroughly, before I could get the Registration & Insurance completed.

On December 22nd, 2015, I went to start the car, to go for the first 20-25 mile drive in the car... when I turned the ignition key, there was a misfire upon start-up... and it hasn't fired-up since.

I replaced all 8 spark-plugs (standard Bosch platinum plus plugs)... I replaced all 8 direct-to-coil Ignition Coils... I replaced both Left & Right Valve Cover Gaskets & Spark Plug Gaskets (there was a little bit of oil on two plugs and coils... so why not?)... I replaced all Relay Switches for Fuel & Ignition locations... I replaced Fuel Filter & the In-Tank Fuel Pump.

I can get the engine to "start" with Starter Fluid sprayed down the Air Intake of the Throttle Body Manifold, but then it "putters'out" & I even put some oil down the Spark Plug holes to cancel-out any Vapor-Lock OR Washdown affect from the Short-Term Starting the first few days (as read on JaguarForums here). The oil burned-off with the Starter Fluid sprays down the Air Intake of the Throttle Body Manifold... But, still no running engine as of yet.

I did see that the Schroeder Valve is not releasing anymore fuel when I engage it with a screw-driver... as it had before. And, when I pulled-off the Fuel Pressure Regulator it had Fuel coming out from the IN Port... but the OUT Port to the Throttle Body Manifold was dry. Then, I sprayed Starter Fluid down the Air Intake again... and no Fuel was spraying out from the IN Port side, where the Fuel Pressure Regulator installs.

I called an Arizona Jaguar Dealer... and all one of the Service Managers suggested was to buy a NEW ECU/ECM (not cheap... and from what I understand the Programming Fee is also expensive).

I'm not sure that this ECU/ECM would have "glitched-out" with turning the ignition key on and trying to start the car on December 22nd, 2015. I will say that it was a "weird" short-cranking sound that happened on the night that it wouldn't start-up again... four days after I received the car... but, I've never experienced that kind of sound and ignition "kick-back" before in any other car.

Does anyone have any other experience with this issue... and if so, what else can I do to get this 2001 Cat going?

Regards,

W. Paul

 

The start on starter fluid suggests you are getting spark
for at least a short time.

There should be fuel at the Shrader, but there is not.

Therefore, check that the pump is supplying fuel.

If you supply power to the same pin as the fuel pump
relay output, you should be able to hear the pump running.
With the trunk open it should be a low hum.

If you hear the pump, then leave the jumper
in place and try to start. It should go.

Depending on the results of the previous steps,
you will either have to determine the reason for
lack of power to the pump, or why the pump is
not spinning. If the pump spins, but there is
no pressure, then did you reattach the in-tank
hose(s) properly?

You may also want to pull your valve covers and check that
the upper tensioners are in good condition, and the metal
variety.

Both of the above points are covered in multiple posts in
this section. Pay attention to the warnings about the original
style plastic tensioners.

 

Thanks for the reply Plums...

I did ensure that the hose was attached to the fuel pump correctly...I actually did it twice, as I replaced the rubber cover on the fuel pump the second time.

But, I did just order another Fuel Pump, along with another Fuel Filter and Gas Tank Evaporative Flange...all as a $100.00 overkill for the Fuel System Replacements...before I ordered the $135.00 Fuel Pressure Regulator (which I don't know is bad or good yet).

When you wrote: "supply power to the same pin as the fuel pump relay output"...in the form of "a jumper". Can you explain what and how this is done? And, what would I need as far as a Power Supply for this action?

I have some DIY'er knowledge... having grown up in a Trucking Garage back in the 80's. But, I now just "fake-it-till-I-make-it" out of necessity these days.

Regards,

W. Paul

 

Plums,

When I had the Valve Covers off of the engine... replacing the Valve Cover gaskets... I did see the chains and tensioners towards the front-side of the engine. Everything looked metal to me in the front-ends of the camshaft slots, including the chains. I was actually looking to see if I could see any plastic pieces in and around there, as I had seen some other posts about those nightmares on here also.

Thanks for that heads-up as well.

 

The fuel pump relay is in the trunk fusebox.

The trunk fusebox has a positive supply stud in the
corner.

Remove the relay. Look at the diagram on the relay to
determine which pin is the output leading to the fuel
pump.

Take a short piece of wire and jumper from the positive
stud to the empty pin in the fusebox that was occupied
by the pin in the relay. That applies power directly to
the fuel pump. You should hear the pump hum.

If you do, leave the jumper in and try to start the car.
Alternatively, go check at the schrader valve for fuel.
Careful, if the pump is running there will be a lot
more pressure than you are used to.

If you have pressure with the jumper arrangement,
then you have a fuel pump power problem in the
control circuitry.

If you do not hear a hum, then suspect power problem
between fusebox and pump, or dead pump.

You will spend a lot of money if you do not use a back
to basics approach to finding the problem.

Engines only need two things to run. Spark and fuel.
If you have one and not the other, then you have to
figure out why.

BTW, a voltmeter would be very handy right about now.

As for the tensioners. it is not a case of looking for general
resemblance. With the cam covers off, you should have been able
to see if the tensioners looked *exactly* like the ones
pictured on this site.

 

When checking the tensioners you want to look for orange/red plastic. This is what happens when the original white plastic has been exposed to engine heat for thousands of miles.

Do yours look like this;

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...1&d=1453234301

That one has come apart but in this picture you can see how orange they get, I circled the tensioner;

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...1&d=1453234557

Or is the plastic nice and white like this;

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...1&d=1453234301
.
.
.

 

Plums & TBird6,

Thank you both for all of this information.

I am going to perform the "jump" to the Fuel Pump now, and see if the Fuel Pump begins to hum. I have all of the notes here ready to follow the instructions.

Also, I have saved the photos of the Tensioners... and will look for the resemblences in these Tensioners in my engine and hopefully these Tensioners look healthy & more white, rather than the more orange/red color.

Again, thank you both for taking the time to inform me and teach me.

Regards,

W. Paul

 

Well thanks for that but you now owe us a post on how you fixed your problem!

Just a bit of payback. Remember we are all just guessing on the internet and you have the car in front of you.
.
.
.

 

I will definitely post the play-by-play when I get this problem resolved...this way someone else can spend a lot less time & money on their own car, if it happens to them.

I do have a couple of questions about the Fuel Pump Relay Switch "jump" and another Metal Fuel Line Piece sitting behind the engine, at the Fire Wall, which I have no idea what to call it, or the functionality of it.

I have enclosed some photos as well:

First... The Fuel Pump Relay:

When I lifted the Fuse Box in the Trunk... There were no direct wires coming out, below each Relay Switch (7 Total - 4th Position = Fuel Pump Relay)

With the Relay Switch Configuration shown in the photos... Is it possible to tell which Female Slot is the correct "jump" insert for the wire-end? While the other end of the "jump" wire goes to the Red Positive Stud Terminal, as shown in the photo.

Second... The round Fuel Line Metal Connector (as shown in photos). This is within the Fuel Line, which directly leads to and through the Fuel Pressure Regulator and then into the Throttle Body Manifold.

What is this round metal piece, with two fuel line connectors?

What function does this metal piece perform?

Can I replace this round metal piece (with the two 45 Angle Arms attached to Rubber Fuel Lines) with a Clear Fuel Filter, so that I can see if fuel is getting to it and through to the Fuel Pressure Regulator?

I feel like I'm getting closer to the answer here...

Regards,

W. Paul

 

Do you have a code scanner and have you tried pulling any codes? Just trying to see if we can get any more information to help, I just hope it doesn't muddy the water.

 

Highhorse,

I did purchase an ODB2 Plug-In & downloaded Torque Lite... I plugged the unit in, under the Driver's Side Dashboard and I didn't get any Fault Codes to register on my Android Phone Torque APP.

Regards,

W. Paul

 

Blade #5 on the relay according to the diagram on
the side of the relay. Match it up in the fusebox.

I have a short little jumper for this job with a blade
on one end and an alligator clip on the other.

Until you can establish fuel pump functionality,
the other stuff is completely irrelevant.

 

I picked up one of those also to give it a try. Not a bad device but it didn't completely load my car info, but it did clear a code. I got one for my work van and it works great on that.
Have you tried contacting the previous owner/mechanic to inquire about this?
I have to also ask if you could explain 'misfire' in detail? How long did it roll before that, was it like a backfire through the intake...something like that?

 

Plums,

Gotcha... I plug the end of the wire into the Blade 5 pin slot (where the Imprinted 87 is on the Black Fuse Box... The only pin slot that is horizontal for the Relay Switch to fit into)

While the other three blades are vertical pin slots for 1(88) - 2, (85) & 3 (30).

Will a small piece of metal wire do the trick? This is what I have at my disposal. I can wrap one end of the wire around the Red Post and stick the other end into that 5 (87) Slot.

I understand that the Secondary Fuel Line piece, within the engine compartment leading to the Fuel Pressure Regulator & Throttle Body Manifold, is irrelevant to the Fuel Pump power-up issue... But, do you happen to know what this item is? It doesn't even register to me what it is called and what it's function is.

Regards,

W. Paul

 

A piece of wire will do fine. I used a paper clip between two
blade positions when I was stuck.

One thing at a time.

 

Highhorse,

I have been in contact with the previous owner in Florida...by Trade he is a Mechanic.

He had replaced the Fuel Pump 5 years ago, when he purchased the car, when he took the gas tank out and cleaned it out of old gasoline upon purchase in 2010.

He also communicated to me that he never experienced a no-start issue from May 2010 TO December 15th, 2015. He even did an oil change on December 10th, 2015 to keep-up the maintenance.

The mis-fire, upon the no-start issue... was only the sixth time I was starting the car, after cleaning, buffing and basically restoring the visual aspects of the car the first three days. I had only pulled it forward in my driveway and backed it up, back into my carport (all of 15 feet either way).

When I went to turn the ignition on for the sixth time... the ignition key seemed to "jump" and refuse to go forward into the start position. Then, I pulled the ket out... inserted it again... and the car began to crank-over...crank-over...and refuse to ignite. It's been doing the same thing ever since, for a month now. Even after I replaced everything noted in the Original Post above.

Regards,

W. Paul

 

Plums,

Okay... I will do the wire "jump" as instructed and report if the Fuel Pump begins to hum inside of the gas tank...or not hum.

W. Paul

 

Plums,

When I leave the Ignition Key Turned On... We have a lot of HUMMING of the Fuel Pump inside of the Gas Tank, when I put the "jump" wire into the 5 Pin Slot & touched it to the Red Fuse Box Post... Is this the most-desireable result?

What should I do next?

W. Paul

 

Plums,

With the "jump" wire in-place... The car did not fire-up.

The Fuel Pump was HUMMING... but, no fire.

I went to the Shrader Valve... and no fuel was present.

Where do I trouble-shoot next?

W. Paul

 

Do you also hear gurgling?

That would be a sign that the output hose at the
top of the pump has come off one of the nipples.

If you used an Airtex, and some other brands, the nipple
is a loose press fit in the sleeve. Other brands like the Denso
have a solid one piece nipple.

Your progressively failing start may have been the hose gradually
coming off, resulting in less and less fuel leaving the tank. At this
point no fuel is leaving the tank at all.

The next test point for fuel flow would be at the inlet to the fuel
filter.

This is DANGEROUS with sparking due to applying the wire jumper

Definitely your choice alone. If I were to do it, it would be outside, with
a fire extinguisher handy, cracking the fuel filter line nut slightly and
pumping a bit while not underneath the car. Pump a few seconds, check
for seepage at the fuel filter inlet.

Do you have fuel in the tank? The fuel sender might be hung up
and you have been working with an empty tank.