Hi Guys,
Another ghost in the machine, my sons XK8 (1998) had the occasional light come on and off for a couple of weeks, he didn't have a code reader at the time and when I put mine on it showed no faults anyway come MOT time and was told that tthe rear left hand wheel bearing was about to give up so after replacing the complete hub assembly due to a worn out drive flange (another story) noticed that the ABS sensor had been rubbing on sensor ring Hurray found problem, so we thought went for drive and same problem intermitant ABS light AND with ASC light on as well (this is with replacement sensor in replaced hub) replaced "new" sensor with original slightly worn one and now there is only the ABS intermittant light on and ASC working, so apart from having good wheel bearings we still have ghost lights.
I checked both sensors and they were the same resistance so why did the "new" one give another fault.
Still investgating will let you all know what I find.

 

I had an intermittent ABS, ASC & Trac. problem for 2 years. Came on permanently a couple weeks ago. Did all the usual checks, finally pulled the ABS module and resoldered the pump pin connections on the circuit board. Crossed my fingers and started the car, all lights are now out. Hope it stays that way.

 

Problem solved, allthough my scanner did not show any faults it turned out to be the front right hand ABS harness link cable that was giving all the grief.
It was found by the local (Norwich ) jag specialist as my sons car threw a auxilary belt off and he had to take it to the nearest indy,so whilst he was there he had it on there diagnostic set ( don't know which one i'm afraid) and up it popped, so new cable and of we go, good luck to all you others with similar problems

rrosscoe

 

Recently I had a rear brake light go out on my 2002 xj8. I had the warning light on the dash as well. It turns out the security control module was to blame. So weird. Apparently the right brake light is on the same circuit. I changed the bulb but no dice. Very frustrating. I wound up paying $300 for a used module out of a '98 and an hour labor from my trusty independent mechanic. You can find these modules one eBay for as little as $60 and swap it out yourself in a few minutes. Be aware that you will have to program your remote to the new module so try to get a replacement that I'd the same year. I'm still dealing with my mechanic over this since he put the unit from a '98 in my 2002 leaving me without the ability to program my remote. This is just a very costly oversight on my part and I would like to prevent this from happening to a fellow jag owner.

 

IT JUST GETS WORSE....AND WORSE....AND WORSE!!!!

For those who want a good old laugh, or who can offer advice and sympathy...I would like to tell you how my "simple saturday morning" O2 sensor swap turned into a catalogue of errors and ended up taking me over a week to complete.

P1647 code: so I started to take all the expansion tank hoses apart and tried to take the sensor out with an inapropriate tool as described previously.

SO, I ordered a new tool off n&mparts on ebay: a draper 90mm socket with 'window' for sensor removal. Four days later they sent me the 150mm long one by mistake - way too long to use. (Can I get a refund off them!??!...no comms, no refund!).
Luckily I also bought a set of offset sensor sockets, which proved up to the job. After a 5 day soak in WD40 the sensor was still very difficult to shift. But, 2 hours of swearing and bruised knuckles and it was off.

Next I ordered a replacement sensor off Jaguar Recycling in Wiltshire via Parts Gateway website. Four days wait, and you guessed it - he sent me the wrong sensor. His plug was completely different to mine, despite all the Denso listings showing the same plus as mine. I called him up and he told me there was no such plug as the denso style one on any of these Jags and all the other dealers have got it wrong. Despite only sounding about 12 years old he claimed to have sold thousands of these parts over the years and never heard of one like mine. "My car must have been rewired with the loom off an S-Type" he said. (1 owner, full jag history -- I don't think so!! Promised me a refund, but you guessed it - no money back on my Barclaycard).

To test the car out while I await a new sensor, I took the upstream one off the drivers side bank - an easy five minute job to swap out later - and put it in the other bank so I could put the expansion tank back and run the car. I am now getting a P1642 code proving the sensor is the faulty component. SO FAR....SO GOOD!!!!! YIPPEEE!!!!!

So I thought! Started the car up and I now get several new codes and lights:
P1638, P1642, P1000, P1637, P1643, P1646 plus red and amber warning lights over the warning display. ABS and red Brake symbol on the dash and scrolling messages saying "RESTRICTED PERFORMANCE", "LOW BRAKE FLUID", "GEARBOX FAULTY" "TRAC NOT AVAILABLE", "ASC NOT AVAILABLE" and other brake related codes. Sometimes the car will not let me select a gear.

My code reader clears the codes by they persist. I suspect electrical comms issues rather than mechanical fault.

I am sure none of these are actual faults with the cars mechanical systems because there was none of this before I tinkered. Braking is good and the engine runs fine.

I suspect I may have got things wet because I was trying to work on the car outside the garage and got caught in a shower before I tented a car cover over myself and the bonnet so I could work under cover.

Any advice???? I have had the car about a month now and hope not to have it in a month's time. I just want to sell up - cut and run!!! But I have grown to love the Jag...it just doesn't love me back!

 

Billy
I had the P1638 issue and it was solved by replacing the instrument cluster with a used one on Ebay.

See my forum thread on replaced instrument cluster:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...estions-63284/

Jim Lombardi

 

billy:
I suspect you have one of root causes. 1) low battery voltage 2) damp electrical connector (put the car in a dry place and let it dry or 3) you displaced a connector

Look for the large connectors near the firewall. I cannot give specific connector location advice because your car is set up different from mine in that your has the wheel on the wrong side

 

Yes, i tend to agree with you. I will check everything today before I put the covers back in.

I might give everything a quick blow over with a hair dryer too.

Does anyone know if i can risk randomly spraying everything with a cleaner aerosol? In the old days we used to always rely on a can of "ignition sealer" to solve wet electricals issues. I wonder if a dose of contact cleaner? white spirit? silicone spray? might help.

I am loathe to do anything to the electrics on this Jag as they seem so damned tempramental!!! And 'electrics' are like 'alchemy' to me - mystifying anchient magic I just don't understand.

 

At this point, I would just let it dry. You might want to remove the spark plug cover plates and look at the coils and the spark plug wells to see if there is condensation.

 

My first break in a month yesterday!!...

I did a hard reset with the ignition key in the ON position. I disconnected the battery cables and clamped them together. This was for about two hours while I pinched all the connectors together in the engine bay, checked all the fuses on the 'troubled' circuits and blew all the connectors dry with a hair dryer.

By the time I finished I switched the ignition off and reconnected the battery. ALL WAS FIXED!!! No lights, no messages and no fault codes!!!............
.......
.......
But that was yesterday. I ahven't dared drive the car today incase my bubble is burst again. Wish me luck guys---and thanks for all your advice.

This is a terrific forum!!

 

Just wanted to add my experience to this thread. I've been living with this issue for years now. I first did the continuity checks for each sensor and cleaned them. I finally got around to removing the ABS module circuit board. It wasn't that hard to remove but I did have the most problems getting it apart. Once I got it apart the problem was obvious. Cold solder joints for the power connection pins on the bottom of the board. I fixed it for whatever the solder and electricity cost. I sealed it with black RTV when I put it back in. It has been working flawlessly for weeks now.

 

Thanks for that note!

I now have a constant ASC/ABS light, have done my ohm checks and all looks fine!
Going to remove it but was uncertain to attempt to crack it open and re solder. I am very comfortable working around electronics and this process..
Or send it to the ebay vendor quoted in these threads, for 50 bucks have a lifetime warranty.

It seems all who have cracked it open have found it to be the solder joints, I'm concerned if it isn't will the ebay vendor still take it for repair? If yes, then I'm game!

Note: My troubleshooting consisted of checking voltages,fuses and resistance for wheel sensors at the plug, all looked fine. Also turning the key to the on position- ASC/ABS light was on instantly, w/o turning the car over.

Tom

 

Tom,
Some more info to help you with your decision. I probably worked on mine for an hour to hour and a half before I finally got it open. You have to be careful, if you stick a screwdriver or something into it to far you could break the PC board. For only $50 it might be worth it to just let somebody else do it that has done a bunch of them. I like to tackle everything myself so I was determined to do it even if I broke it.

Here is something else to think about. I thought of this after I got mine apart. I'm wondering if anyone else has ever tried this. If you try it you could be the first. You might be able to solder the joints without cracking it apart. Let me explain......the joints that go bad are the ones for the power supply going into the bottom of the board. You use a drill bit that is set up to be able to only go about 1/8 of an inch deep and drill the casing directly opposite of the two pins for the bottom connector. You end up with one or two small holes just big enough to solder through. You solder the pins and use a rubber plug or silicone to seal it back up.

Has anyone ever tried this or am I just crazy?

As far as taking your unit out.

Jack up the car on the drivers front.
Remove the coolant overflow bottle
Remove the four nuts for the ABS module bracket
Remove both electrical connections to module.
Just to get them out of the way.....remove the electrical connector for the AC pressure switch
Remove the two connectors just to the right of the module.
Without loosening any lines pull the ABS module with bracket out of the engine compartment mounting holes and move it to the left a little so that it can't drop back down into the holes.
Bend all the lines just enough to allow more room to remove the four fasteners and to get the unit out (no fluid in the portion of unit).

Hope this helps. It is still fresh in my mind since I just did it.

Jordan

 

The procedure for drilling and soldering is documented with pictures at jagrepair.com. I have done so myself.

JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

 

Wish I had known about this before I did mine. Oh well, I got mine working the hard way. It sure is nice to not have lights and errors on my dash.

Jordan

 

Does anyone have a close up pic of the soldier that needs to be don?

 

Welcome to the forum, this is one I did earlier....
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...17/#post753352

Don't forget the thanks button when ABS light goes off

Why not introduce yourself in the new member section, you might get bumped up to full rights for downloads that will help fix your car. Also fill in your car details, make and model year helps with answers.

 

I opted to send it to the place on Ebay noted here. For 50 bucks, and 15 shipping, I don't have to worry about it. I have another car to drive whilst it is being shipped and repaired- no biggie.

While I could bet that the solder joints are probably the issue, might as well let the pros do it and check it out completely.

Couple of notes getting the unit out... it's very easy!

Got a e5 socket and had a t25 to take the pump off the bracket- that was the hardest part! lol

Taking the pump off the bracket first allowed me to easily move it up and around to remove the e5 screws, with a 1/4 socket wrench, to release the unit from the pump block. Yeah, had to bend out the brake lines a little but easy-peazy to do. Took me 1/2 hour to get it done.

Now it's off to Tennessee for repair, I will let everyone know how that process goes.

Thanks to all on the forum, you guys are the best! Could not have attempted it without such a great source as this forum and you diehard Jaguar guys!



Tom

 

For what it's worth, I experienced this problem shortly after I bought mine. I managed to track down the original owner to inquire about extra keys (only got 1). He wanted to buy the car back in the worst way, while we were chatting I mentioned this happening and he said it was a failsafe built into the tranny setup. It would turn off after shutting the car down for a minute then restarting. The only time it has ever done this to me has been when I shifted from reverse to drive too quickly! Now that I was made aware of this it's only happened once since and that was my fault! Hope it helps...
__________________
Thanks, Barry

 

Got the unit back! They turned it around the same day!

Glad I took this route, picture of the returned unit attached. I suspect if I cracked it open and couldn't see the apparent issue, I would not have had this warranty based on the picture I posted.. Worth the 50 bucks, which included return shipping btw..

No ASC/ABS light!

All is good. Very happy with the decision..

I would recommend the repair place noted on ebay. They updated me and where prompt.
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