I filled her up with a full tank of gas. As soon as I left the gas station it sputtered then shut down. In the middle of the road. While waiting on AAA I tried starting it and it just sputtered and died. When we got it home and off of the truck, it cranked right up. Is this the fuel pump or the fuel pump wires? I had the dealer replace the fuel pump and wire May 2012. I'm pretty sure it is out of warranty but is this the first sign of bad pump or wires?

 

looks like fuel pumps to me....

 

Pumps don't last more than 1 year. If that's what is going on that sucks. What is a good reliable brand pump? I will call the dealer tomorrow.

 

If your pump hasn't lasted for a bit over a year (and that's presuming it is the pump) then something is definitely wrong.

I went through hell with the fuel pump on my car in April 2012 and it had been the original pump up until then. It was replaced with a NAPA part, and that pump probably would have worked correctly had the garage that put it in not kinked the supply line causing it to overwork and burn out. I ended up having to by an OEM harness and pump after I made it back to my home and had the NAPA pump give out promptly the next morning after less than 200 miles of travel. Based on what the shop found with "installation issues" I wouldn't be afraid to go with a NAPA pump provided you make sure that none of the lines in or out of the pump are compromised in any way.

I, however, suspect that something else is at play here. You should definitely pull your OBD codes, all of them, to see what they might be telling you.

 

I pulled codes and none comes up. One thing I did was when I filled it up I kept clicking the gas pump to fill it up the most. You guys think doing that caused an issue?

 

No, I don't think that topping off could possibly do this.

When was the last time the fuel filters were changed? This could also be an issue with them.

 

filter was changed last May when the dealer changed the pump.

 

I'd definitely at least check the fuel filter then.

 

Nothing wrong on initial suspicion - the USA spec' cars have a fuel gas purge valve and added gubbins on & around the fuel tank, think you've got it overfilled. Drive it round until it's empty and see what happens, if nothing happens, don't over fill it again, simple!

I wouldn't worry about the pump and filter at this point, but if it keeps doing it, then that's going to change my mind.

Hope that helps

 

Depends on what pumps you put in. I think the Airmex pumps are horrid and will fail in a year.

 

The dealer installed the pump so I have no ideal what brand was used.

 

What does the fuel gas purge do? Is the function of the purge valve is to shut the car down if it is overfilled? I did run some fuel out of it and drove it around a little and nothing shut off. I will keep an eye out and see what happens. Thanks.

 

The purge valve purges fuel fumes from the system. I think what Sean was saying was that maybe the tank was too full and the purge system was sucking fuel instead of fumes. I never have to worry about that as I am always running on fumes. ;^) So drive it around a while and see what happens.

 

Excuse the intrusion, but how can you conclude that this is a fuel pump issue? My XJR 2000 has two fuel pumps. Are you saying that both failed? Were there any other symptoms here, such as any electrical issues? I've seen these vehicles stop while driving due to a battery-terminal connection issue. I don't think the OP provided enough evidence to jump to the conclusion that "the fuel pump" (assuming there is only one in the VDP 2001) went bad. And if it did, are they known to start working again after a total failure?

 

I died again today on my wife and had to be towed home. I checked the fuel rail valve and no fuel is present when I push the valve. I believe it is the pump AGAIN!! Like I said before the dealer change the pump last May. Just like the earlier post by guyslp, he had kinked lines inside and I just wonder if I have the same issue. Reason I say this is before the dealer changed the pump when I fill up the tank it would read full. Well after they installed the pump when I fill up it would never reach full. It would read between 3/4 to full mark. Is this and issue that could had caused the pump to fail in such a short time? What is the pump to get that will not fail? Guyslp suggested Napa brand any other proven pumps out on the market?

 

Under what circumstances did the car die on your wife? Did she stop for a short time (maybe at the grocery store) and then re-start the car and then it died? If so, I'm thinking the unlikely vapor lock situation that's not supposed to happen, but isn't totally unheard of.

 

She drove to the football game and went to the store. When she parked the car it was to far backed in. So she said she got back in to crank up and it didn't crank. So she went inside and shopped came back out and attempted to crank and it did but like it wanted to cut off. She said it was like it was chocking out like it was about to cut out on her. She started driving in the parking lot and it finally just cut off.

 

It might be worth the money to go to a Jaguar dealership or a local import specialist and have them read the codes -- and if you can, have them inspect the installation of the fuel pump to see if it was done correctly without any kinks in the line, etc.

 

You either do have a bad fuel pump or, more likely, the relay that drives the pump is getting dodgy. You cannot get "vapor lock" on a car with the pump in the tank, That refers to the suction side having vapor instead of liguid. If there is no fuel pressure, and the filter is good, then either the pump is bad, there is no electricity at the pump or a line is kinked or off (in the tank). A test gauge tells you about pressure, a test lamp or meter tells you about voltage. Other than that, you are guessing.

 

[Italics and red emphasis are mine.]

Not that I disagree with your overall premise, but the highlighted material is just not correct. Vapor lock can occur as the result of fuel boiling anywhere in the fuel delivery system prior to it making it to where it combusts. This creates gaps where there is no liquid fuel to be pushed/pulled/pumped regardless of whether the thing that does the moving of the fuel has liquid fuel or not.

Most cars that suffer vapor lock are older ones with fuel systems that are, for all practical intents and purposes, unpressurized. The pump or pumps are getting liquid fuel, but when traveling toward the carb it hits a "hot spot" somewhere along the way and vaporizes in the line. If this "hot spot" has reached the point where anything that passes through it will vaporize then you're stuck until things cool down enough that this process stops.

Vapor lock is virtually never (but not always never, since fuel can boil in the fuel tank, too) the result of a fuel pump not getting liquid fuel. It almost always occurs beyond the pump. [This is presuming the pump placement is, relatively speaking, near to the fuel tank rather than far upstream from it, which is the norm.]