Hi Boom,
"show a sort of button or bearing" if you mean the upper "tool" in the attached pic, that started life as the old damper bolt removed during strip down, I ground down the threads so it would slip into the end of the crank, I also ground down its shoulder to fit inside of the split collet that sits between the crank and the inner damper body, using this ensures the force from the main centre puller bolt (19mm) is central on the crank tail. Also be careful when you insert the 8mm bolts as the holes are not blind, so if you tighten them too much you'll be pushing against the alloy cover right next to the oil seal with a good chance of damaging it. If you have a look at the pic of the pulley/damper in my previous post I put a lock nut about 10mm up the bolt to stop it going too far while I was doing a trial fit.
To be honest maybe I was lucky, because my pulley/damper came off quite easy, with just a standard ½” ratchet used on the puller, no extension bars required. I held the flywheel locked with an 18” pry bar held in place by a trolley jack, and not the other shaped 19mm bolt in the pic, thats my version of the tool used to position the flywheel timing slot for jaguars version of TDC.
The main body of my puller fits inside the inner part of the pulley so as not to place any force on the outer edge that is just bonded together by the damper rubber.
Hope that helps, If you need any more info give me a shout.
Cheers
Pete

 

A split collet? I was not aware of that. From your picture, I thought it was part of the damper. I wonder what function the collet serves?

When you put the damper back on, is the collet placed inside the damper or set onto the crankshaft end? And how do you ensure that the collet ends up even with the end if the crankshaft?

One of my other cars us a Buick with an LT1 V8, and on that engine the damper is a press interference fit directly onto the crank, no collet. I wonder why the difference?

 

I didn’t take mine out when the damper was off but looking at the JEPC looks like a taper collet. The woodruf key is used with the timing gear sprockets. The shoulder on the new bolt that you'll be fitting, covers the end of the collet when it’s nipped up, that’s why I ground the collar of the old bolt down to fit inside the collet when I removed mine so the puller bolt is pushing on the end of the crank and not the collet.

Cheers
Pete

 

why i can't see your photos. event i registered. my timming chain in the bank 2 is broken. do i need to get out all of the cylinder head to check it

 

Hey, if you can read your private messages you spot that this explains why . In english , you are a new member and need min 10 posts + a few days for you to become a full access member

 

I have a 99 XK8 and love it. Will be addressing the upper chain issue in the next month. Thanks for the info