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I used to see Hastings pistons rings in rockauto xkr Catalog but can't find them anymore I believe good machine shop can install aftermarket bearings and piston rings
I used aftermarket bearings on my 350z 5 years no problems and I honestly I was revving the engine to redline every now then zero problems
I used to see Hastings pistons rings in rockauto xkr Catalog but can't find them anymore I believe good machine shop can install aftermarket bearings and piston rings
I used aftermarket bearings on my 350z 5 years no problems and I honestly I was revving the engine to redline every now then zero problems
Thanks Silverjag! I actually found a set of Hastings last week that I went with that should work (https://www.ebay.com/itm/274639398250). We'll see how they go.
Got a lot done to the car over the last few days, and that piston and cylinder wall are hammered for sure. The MLS head gasket looked good on both sides, so nothing to concerning there.
I don't see any valve damage or piston damage. My guess here is either oil starvation, extreme lean condition, or ring failure on that cylinder. Regarding the heads, they seem to be in good shape, especially the drivers side. Not sure what the verdict is going to be on the head with the bad cylinder, but we'll have to see.
The new block should be here tomorrow, and am glad I went that route. So, everything should be off to the machine shop this week if all goes well.
Also, in case it's helpful to anyone; I'm keeping tabs on parts I've been picking up and cost for the project. On the 2001 XJR I did a similar thing, though never posted it; so maybe this will be helpful for people out there looking at refreshing various components. LINK
Last edited by ChristmasGT; Mar 30, 2025 at 01:30 PM.
Thanks Silverjag! I actually found a set of Hastings last week that I went with that should work (https://www.ebay.com/itm/274639398250). We'll see how they go.
Got a lot done to the car over the last few days, and that piston and cylinder wall are hammered for sure. The MLS head gasket looked good on both sides, so nothing to concerning there.
I don't see any valve damage or piston damage. My guess here is either oil starvation, extreme lean condition, or ring failure on that cylinder. Regarding the heads, they seem to be in good shape, especially the drivers side. Not sure what the verdict is going to be on the head with the bad cylinder, but we'll have to see.
The new block should be here tomorrow, and am glad I went that route. So, everything should be off to the machine shop this week if all goes well.
Also, in case it's helpful to anyone; I'm keeping tabs on parts I've been picking up and cost for the project. On the 2001 XJR I did a similar thing, though never posted it; so maybe this will be helpful for people out there looking at refreshing various components. LINK
Hastings and mahle make good pistons rings
If that was oil starvation then the oil pump probably needed replacement or maybe driving with with low oil
To my knowledge jaguar oil doesn't have problems
Good machine shop will bring back the cylinder head to new condition check if they can Port the heads too it will breath better
Quick update. Been receiving a ton of various parts that I've ordered and dropped the cars original Heads off at the machine shop, should have them back sometime next week. At first glance, they weren't too concerned.
The eBay 4.2 engine block is on the stand and I'm going to work on disassembly this week. Been trying to find the mileage from the VIN (SAJDA42B953A40737), but no dice at the moment. Once the new engine is disassembled, I'll send the block out to get inspected and cleaned before reassembly.
Up next, I need to source new crank and connecting rod bearings as well as bolts for each. Jaguar wants a small fortune, but I'll update the list if I find alternatives.
It's great to get a new block. There is nothing quite like having a new engine
that you are confident with and should have no problems with for some time.
The only thing that would bother me is why did the original block have such
an issue on just the one cylinder because that issue is a bit unusual.
It's great to get a new block. There is nothing quite like having a new engine
that you are confident with and should have no problems with for some time.
The only thing that would bother me is why did the original block have such
an issue on just the one cylinder because that issue is a bit unusual.
From what it looks like it was ring failure. The original block had over 209,000 miles on it. When I pull it, I'll probably refresh it as well (as it's better to do it now while parts exist) and I'll keep it as a spare for the 2001 XJR.
Last edited by ChristmasGT; Apr 8, 2025 at 01:01 PM.
Was able to get everything apart today and have all of the bearing part numbers and will work on getting them ordered this week. The Crank has some deep scoring on one of the journals, so it's going to need to get looked at.
Also, this week I'll send the block off to be cleaned off and the Cylinder walls cleaned up, though they look in great shape. Any ideas on replacement Bed Plate bolts? Jag wants quite a lot for them, and they're rated for a one time use.
Been awhile! A lot has been going on and a number of things have changed with the project. The quick of it is that to properly re-sleeve the block was going to be around $4,500. And, that was pretty far out of the budget at the moment. Given they had to bore scope the block, I ended up having to get a "new" 4.2L eBay replacement. Between new Bed Plate and Connecting rod bolts and bearings, that number would have been a lot higher.
Additionally, just to make sure things are good inside the engine from an oiling perspective, I've gone ahead and picked up a new Oil Pump from Jaguar Palm Beach just to ensure that everything is healthy when it comes to oil.
While the engine is out, I figured it would be a good time to do a complete front end refresh as the Engine Mounts were completely broken, so I'm in the process of installing new Engine Mounts, Sub-frame bushings, Control Arm bushings, Bilstein Struts and Ball Joints in.
Also, to be pro-active, I figure it would be a good time to replace the fuel pumps, filters and O2 Sensors as well.
If replacing motor mounts consider adding the transmission mount. They are usually replaced as a set.
You will be amazed how easy it is to swap out the tranny mount compared to the 2 engine mounts!
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Been awhile! I've been plugging away at the car for the last few months, and figured I'd do a quick recap. Over the Summer / Fall I got a lot done including:
Dropped the new 4.2 AJ33S Short block In
Put on the new machine shop heads with MLS head gaskets
Compression test looked good at 120-130 per cylinder
New Front sub-frame bushes
New Motor mounts
New Upper and lower control arm bushes
New front swaybar bushes
New cooling hoses
New Vacuum hoses
Upper and lower ball joints
New Front Wheel Bearings
New Goodridge Stainless brake lines (front and rear)
New Gates water pump
New Upper and Lower O2 Sensors on each side
Upgraded to the Bosche aux pump
Cleaned and flow tested all injectors via SD
New OEM Oil Pump
Pre-primed with all the plugs out for 1-2 minutes
Put all new zinc coated bolts pretty much everywhere
Replaced the Supercharger oil and upgraded to the solid bushing
The Supercharger was making a bit of noise, so I may need to get it completely refurbished, we'll see after I deal with the other codes thought
Deleted EGR and Throttle body water cooling components
It will be in the Garage, and it makes it so much easier to work on
This week I was able to fire it up, but it ran pretty poorly with a few misfire codes. Found a number of vacuum leaks, the hardest one to find was the EGR Valvebody leaking, picked up a new one that will replace it.
“Replaced the Supercharger oil and upgraded to the solid bushing
The Supercharger was making a bit of noise, so I may need to get it completely refurbished,”
The problem is what MANY forum members (including myself) have done to these blowers. The solid coupler needs to be removed and thrown away then install a new Eaton spring loaded coupler in its place and the noise will disappear. Search them on eBay. I hope you get the engine running better.
I don’t know if deleting the EGR coolant hoses was a good idea or not. I understand why you did it but, that EGR could get really hot and heat soak the intake elbow, blower and TB. If there was a way to program out the EGR so there’s no cel, that would be ideal just to remove the EGR and tube with block off plates. Just my 2 cents.
Last edited by Addicted2boost; Nov 25, 2025 at 10:51 AM.
“Replaced the Supercharger oil and upgraded to the solid bushing
The Supercharger was making a bit of noise, so I may need to get it completely refurbished,”
The problem is what MANY forum members (including myself) have done to these blowers. The solid coupler needs to be removed and thrown away then install a new Eaton spring loaded coupler in its place and the noise will disappear. Search them on eBay. I hope you get the engine running better.
I don’t know if deleting the EGR coolant hoses was a good idea or not. I understand why you did it but, that EGR could get really hot and heat soak the intake elbow, blower and TB. If there was a way to program out the EGR so there’s no cel, that would be ideal just to remove the EGR and tube with block off plates. Just my 2 cents.
You're 100% right on the solid coupler being an issue, I found a video after a quick forum search and that's exactly what it sounds like on the car, I went ahead and ordered a new OEM spring replacement coupler. So, thank you!
I'm willing to try the EGR / Throttle body coolant hose delete and see how it goes for awhile, I'll try to regularly report on any abnormalities I come across along the way. Honestly, like you said, I wish there was a way to completely program out the EGR.
So, been working through things on the Jag and got it running. For the life of me, I can't get it to run well at all.
I need to do a bit more research, but I'm unsure if it's a combination of the 4.0 SC heads and the 4.2 AJ33S SC Block, but the car is absolutely not happy. Compression looks great across the board at 135-140PSI on all the cylinders, so that's a plus at the very least. Borescoping the cylinders didn't show anything abnormal either.
It looks like the car may be backfiring a bit and I'm getting a large number of Misfire Codes (P0304, P0306, P0307 and P0308).
My first thought was timing, so today I pulled the valve covers off and just re-checked the cam and crank timing with the lockout tool set, everything looked just fine. Also, I've checked Spark on all 8 Coil Packs and plugs as well just to cross it off. The Injectors were cleaned and flow tested as well.
If anyone has any ideas it would be hugely helpful.
Last edited by ChristmasGT; Dec 17, 2025 at 09:24 PM.
